1922 Gold Cup Racer "MISS SEVERN" - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Mar 25, 2012, 08:54 PM
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15. With all the frames glued to the building board and the keel, glue the shears into frame #F6 with medium CA glue, making sure to have them seated all the way in their slots. Proceed to glue the remaining frames to the shears with the medium CA glue.
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Mar 25, 2012, 08:58 PM
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16. The chines are next being installed on the model using the 1/8 x 1/4" x 36 bass wood material. At the stem post the chine slot bottom must be angle cut to receive the chine batten for gluing. The end of the batten must also be cut at an angle to form a point with the matting chine from the opposite side of the hull. Because the hull is longer than the 36 bass wood batten, a splice must be done midway between frame #F8 and #F9, for the first chine run. Once the chine is fitted it can be glued in position in the chine slots, starting at the stem post and working back to frame #F8. Now measure and cut piece of the batten material to fit in between frame #F8 and #F9 for a splice joint. Glue the splice block to the back of the chine coming from the bow.
Mar 25, 2012, 09:00 PM
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17. Now glue the next chine batten butting the front chine on the splice block. Once dry glue the chine into the remaining chine slots in the frames.
Mar 25, 2012, 09:02 PM
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18. Fit the opposite chine the same as the first making sure to have a good joint at the stem post.
Mar 25, 2012, 09:03 PM
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19. The chine is built up with two laminating chine battens. Proceed to shape the front of the batten to again form a point with the opposite side chine at the stem post. one fit proceed to glue with medium CA glue starting at the stem post and working back to the transom, making sure to keep the two chines lined up to form a 1/4" x 1/4" bass wood chine. Again because the boat is longer that the 36 length of bass wood, a second piece of batten material will have to be butt glued to the back of the forward material, with the joint between frame #F10 and #F11. The chine can cut off after frame #F11.
Mar 25, 2012, 09:08 PM
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20. The bottom battens can be glued into their respective slots on both sides of the keel with medium CA glue, starting flush with the front of frame #F1 and running back and over frame #F11. The side battens are also glued in their slots starting flush with the front of frame #F1 and going back and over frame #F11.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:42 AM
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21. All the battens, chines, shears, and keel can be cut flush with back of the transom frame #F11.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:47 AM
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22. All the frame work must now be block sanded true before any sub planking is to be installed. The keel must be trued to the running surface of the bottom and tapered to the sides of the hull at the stem post. The shears must also be sanded true with the frames for the planking to lay flat against the shear. A piece of the sub planking laid across the frame work at 45 degrees to the frames and the battens will show any edges which will have to be faired for the planking.
Mar 26, 2012, 07:53 AM
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23. The radiused transom is the next frame work to be glued in place. The laser cut parts from laser sheet S5 will be used in the construction. The radiuses are glued to the back of frame #F11 where indicated by the laser etch lines. The 4 radius parts are glued with the medium CA glue, making sure to line up the centre line of the radiuses with the center line of the transom. The rest of the blocking will be cut to fit between the radius blocking. Once glued the transom blocking must be block sanded true for radius.
Last edited by frankg; May 27, 2015 at 12:16 PM.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:30 PM
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24. The transom and blocking should be sealed with a penetrating resin made by thinning a batch of mixed epoxy resin with Xylene thinner. The 3/32 x 4 x 36 plain balsa sheet supplied with the kit can have one side of it also coated with the penetrating resin. Once the resin has hardened, the sheet can be laid against the transom vertically with the seams on the center of the vertical blocking, and then marked over size at the top and bottom for cutting. The center is glued to the transom first and then the two side parts are butt glued on the blocking on both sides.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:34 PM
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25. With the transom planked with the balsa sub planking, block sand the sub planking true with the bottom, and sides of the hull.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:35 PM
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26. The sides and bottom of the hull are diagonally planked with the 3/32 x 5/8 x 36 hard balsa planking, starting with the front edge of the first plank at frame #F6 diagonally to the shear at frame #F7. Pencil marks the back edge of the plank where it crosses the shear, side batten, frames, and the chine. This will show where to glue with the medium CA glue when placing the sub plank. Cut the plank leaving it over hang both the shear and the chine. Run a bead of medium CA glue in-between the pencil marked areas and place the first sub plank in position making sure to have plank make contact with the side batten.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:38 PM
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27. With the first plank glued in place the second plank is butted in back of the first plank and pencil mark the back edge of the plank where it crosses any of the framing structures. Again run a bead of medium CA glue on the framing structures that the plank will be glued to and place the second plank holding in against the side batten. Continue with this procedure moving back to the transom. Note that the planking will start to go from concave to flat and then to convex as you go to the transom due to the tumble home of the transom.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:53 PM
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28. Once the side planking is completed to the transom, start with the sub planking going forward to the stem post in the same manner. When the sub planking is completed to the stem post, trim and block sand the planking true with the opposite side of the stem post so that the opposite side planking will overlap it at the stem post.
Mar 26, 2012, 06:54 PM
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29. The opposite side sub planking is done in the same manner as the first side starting with the first plank being position on the diagonal from the shear at frame #F6 to the chine at frame #F7. Once all the planking is completed, trim and block sand the planking true with the first side planking at the stem post. Also trim and block sand the planking true with the bottom of the hull at the chine. As you block sand going forward make sure that the sanding block stays true to the changing angle of the bottom as you progress to the stem post. You will notice that you will be sanding the top of the side planking at an angel closer to the stem post.

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