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Oct 19, 2012, 06:19 AM
Life begins at transition
i can think of a pub is should be in, but it may need uso's ok for release...
pm me if you're that interested.
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Oct 19, 2012, 06:39 AM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Hey guys appreciate all the effort, have a look at this, we are working on the final production file right now, this is how it will look, I will print and check size tomorrow against the Mirage I am building, so far doesnt look too bad at all.
Last edited by Extreme_RC; Oct 22, 2012 at 04:57 PM.
Oct 19, 2012, 06:57 AM
Life begins at transition
Cool, looks good!

Are you reshaping the vert stab? Or leaving it entirely as a -2000?
Oct 19, 2012, 02:04 PM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
That will do nicely. And in time for Christmas too

I guess I'll need a nice 'whooshy' setup to go with that ...
Oct 19, 2012, 04:08 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Reshaping means new mold means big $$$$ that no one is going to invest in an old product let alone a new one! From what I have heard across all the factories business is very quiet, no one is investing in molds for foamies, some are looking at composites, but so far the pricing is right up there, I hope Kin can come out with some affordable large glass models
Oct 20, 2012, 04:00 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
One thing I have asked them to do is slice off the lumps on the vertical stab so its clean, might be able to get them to slice the top off straight too, just a touch, 1-2mm to level it out.

Also will be working on a plastic cone to slip over the back section of the exhaust nozzle to hide most of it and try to create the shape of the rear. I am going to make one from acetate sheet for the one I am building now, but will talk to ricky about vac formed and trimmed and see what he thinks.
Oct 22, 2012, 12:44 AM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Ok more work on the vertical today, some adjustment in the decals, longer main decal, longer bars on the stab, only thin needed now is move the tiger head back a little to rebalance the longer decal.

I have been looking at how best to mod the rudder, have a look at the photo below and tell me what you all think, cutting the top and the TE is easy, the LE might be more difficult for the factory as it will need to be resanded to shape, I have asked them and waiting on the reply.

Edit: have added an original fin photo, I intend to cut mine and fill the panel lines as I am glassing it anyway, will see how it comes out.

Second edited photo has TE cut even more. Not much more I can do with the stock fin, making one from soft balsa and carving/sanding to shape would be most ideal for a truly scale look.
Last edited by Extreme_RC; Oct 22, 2012 at 01:00 AM.
Oct 22, 2012, 05:36 AM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Ok got updates, no problem to cut the fin, in fact we can cut the leading edge too and reshape it before painting, so I will do mine tomorrow, work out the most I can cut off it and then send them the photos of the finished fin, will post up here too for you guys to comment on.

Photo, red highlight:
Ricky is also going to look into acetate sheet to wrap around the tailcone and emulate the Mirage 3 rear end. I will do this with some sheet and make a template if it looks good, should be easy for the factory to cut them out and paint to match the fuse, wrap and stick with preapplied double sided tape then silicon onto the tailcone butting up against the fuse.

Unless anyone has any other good ideas??
Last edited by Extreme_RC; Oct 22, 2012 at 05:47 AM.
Oct 22, 2012, 05:42 AM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
Nice. Press!
Oct 22, 2012, 08:42 AM
Buildings what I enjoy.
This Mirage looks pretty good. I used a sheet of plastic to emulate the tail cone shape also and I think it looks on. I also cut the fin and the extra farings off the fin for the IIIo shape even added the ventral tank.
Oct 22, 2012, 05:40 PM
Registered User
Hi Mark,

I used microply on mine. Like shane I made a lower ventral fin.
I also made a new fin out of balsa that matches the 111O profile.

Best regards,

Hawk124
Oct 22, 2012, 05:54 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Yeah have thought about the ventral tank but when I suggest vac forming I get the mold is expensive to do thing, which really its not! LOL. I will keep working on it though.

All the mirage parts are ready to go, once I have finalised the tail fin they will trim and reshape then start on the painting and kitting up. should only be a couple of weeks and the kits will be ready to start sending out to customers.

Would be nice to make a new fin but we need to work with the parts on hand in order to keep the costs in control. I think trimming the current fin will end up looking pretty good, most ppl wont complain too much about the scale

I got 1mm ply, also got lots of various grade acetate, the plastic will be easier for the factory I think, certainly finshes off the rear end nicely.
Oct 22, 2012, 06:09 PM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
The only real problem with the fin is its too far forward, even for the Mirage 2000 its a bit too forward on the flyfly/htg kit. I am mocking it up on my fuse before I start assembling the fuse up, and am worried if I cut the TE back much it will look even more out of position. I dont think there is any way the factory can move the fin due to the premolded fuse halves, of course a whole new fin would be great! but impossible cost wise unless I could sell at least 250+ of the things...
Oct 24, 2012, 03:01 AM
The best in EDF since 2005
Extreme_RC's Avatar
Ok guys, decal type, we can do water slide, which will likely be the best choice as they can be moved around into place while wet and then let to dry and set.

The other type is like a signwriters sticker, it has a clear film over the top and small clear edges, you stick it down on the model, rub over then peel the clear sheet off leaving the glossy decal, only problem is its a one shot, you dont get it right you cant get it off again.
Oct 24, 2012, 03:32 AM
dro56595@bigpo's Avatar
I'm comfortable with waterside, have used them before, and I'll be putting a coat of WBPU over the whole thing anyway.

The sign writer type can be moved a little if you cover the area with slightly water diluted dishwashing detergent - but don't press hard until you have it placed as it's generally pressure activated. Watch out for bubbles though ...


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