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Mar 21, 2012, 08:51 AM
3 x Pegasus III, San Diego,U47
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Robbe U-47 Instruction booklet


Hi there,
I am new with subs. I bought a second hand Robbe U-47 kit some time ago, and have just opened the box. I am not sure all parts are there, and I can only find three sheets of plans instructions. They are not easy to read and very little details available. I heard there should be a booklet with proper pics etc included, but I have not got it.

Can anyone help? Has anyone got a scanned version or a computerized version of this booklet? I am stuck and cannot find info about part 13.1 - 13.4.

Oh yes, and has anyone experience of UHU Hart for gluing the boat and its bits and pieces. Somewhere I read about Stabilit Express, but it is so damn messy... I actually already started with the UHU glue.
It is not suitable for Styrofoam, PE or PP!! Is the sub made of PP or PE???

Thanks,
chrissel
Last edited by chrissell; Mar 21, 2012 at 09:25 AM.
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Mar 21, 2012, 05:59 PM
Submarines, etc.
tsenecal's Avatar
i don't know how long this link will be available, but if it dies, let me know.

http://data.robbe-online.net/robbe_pdf/P1122_1-1114.pdf


as to the glue, i have never used UHU, i did use the Stabilit Express to build mine, it worked fine, and wasn't too messy compared with epoxy. i do know that others have found stuff similar to Stabilit Express locally.


https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=882738
Last edited by tsenecal; Mar 21, 2012 at 06:05 PM.
Mar 28, 2012, 03:53 PM
Registered User
Lock Tight has a epoxy that is more of a paste than a liquid. I used it to finish my Robbie SeaWolf. Any hardware store has it.
Apr 26, 2012, 08:50 AM
3 x Pegasus III, San Diego,U47
Thread OP
Damn,
I cannot open the link any more
What is wrong! Please help!
http://data.robbe-online.net/robbe_pdf/P1122_1-1114.pdf
Feb 18, 2020, 01:51 PM
Registered User

Robbe u47 plan 1


Chrissell,

I have had the same kit for a while. I decided to take it off the self and finish it. I have plans 2 and 3. However, I have misplaced plan 1. Is there any way I might get a copy of plan 1? I can also share whatever information I have with you...manual, pics, etc.

Thanks
Feb 18, 2020, 05:40 PM
Registered User

Robbe u47 plan 1


Chrissell,
Do you still have plan 1? I misplaced mine and would like another copy. Is there any way I could get a copy?

Thanks,
Stephen
Feb 18, 2020, 10:01 PM
AKA Mr Pita
here are some pictures from my sheet 1. I hope it helps. Greg
Feb 21, 2020, 08:43 AM
Modeler/ Historian
Stephen Vick's Avatar
I am building a Robbe U-47 at this time. My third Robbe build. If I may; I would like to pass on a few tips I have picked up along the way. 90% of the instructions deal with the "equipment tray" and screw joiner assembly. My recommendation, throw these out! They are headaches waiting to happen (usually pondside) Invest in a proper equipment rack (I recommend the one from Wikinger Modellbau) and a bayonet locking ring from Alexander Engle Modellbau. Also, Wikinger Modellbau has some terrific scale upgrades for the deck, tower, limber holes etc... If you are determined to build her bone stock (which is fine, nothing wrong with keeping a classic original) Make sure you reinforce the equipment tray, especially where it joins the aft end cap, and solder the screw joiner with a top quality silver solder (or it will break loose). Stock , she builds up to a nice semi scale model, dynamic diving though. Investing in a good ballast system is an idea... Engle has very good (pricey but good) piston tanks.. I am trying out a tank from Maximus Modellbau, which is made specifically to fit the Wikinger tech rack. If you choose to stay with dynamic diving, I recommend tossing the stock dive mechanism. Add a third servo to control bow planes, and also a good angle keeper on the stern planes. Trim the boat decks awash and off you go! dive using bow planes and the stern planes on the angle keeper will keep her on an even keel. Good luck with your build, have fun with it!
Feb 22, 2020, 02:36 PM
Registered User
Some good advise here. I have some additional suggestions:

Change the stern end cap to a flat type instead of the concave original, makes passing through and aligning of the propeller shafts, push rods etc. a lot easier.
(Flat end caps are also available from Wikinger if you can't make them yourself.)

Glue in the rear flood hole masks only after you have aligned the rear hull section with the middle section, i.e. with as little gap as possible between the sections but also in diameter. This way the flood holes can be exactly aligned horizontally, which would be a lot of work if done later as you basically need to rip it apart and patch it back together somehow (been there, done that ).

Use push-rod seals 2mm or 3mm as an alternative to the accordion seals included in the kit. I will also use shaft sealing rings pressed into an aluminium enclosure. With those sealing rings you would not need a stern tube, though I still use them but not visible outside of the hull.

Change the plastic props to some nice brass ones (e.g. Raboesch #162-15 and #162-16).

If you use the bayonet locking ring there is no need to shorten the WTC, just push it a bit further into the bow as there is enough space even with the original concave end cap. Then you gain an inch or so inside the WTC, too. Every millimeter counts, right?
Last edited by KaLeu; Feb 22, 2020 at 05:28 PM.
Feb 23, 2020, 12:21 PM
Registered User
tchalfant's Avatar
i tried to find the original from Robbe and used the wayback website
https://web.archive.org/web/20050909...122_1-1114.pdf
i was able to download the manual 83 pages


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