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Old Jul 11, 2001, 04:27 PM
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Cessna Cardinal from Midwest Products


This is an older (directions say 1985) foam ARF kit that a friend gave me when he heard that I was getting into flying. Guess he wanted to do this ten years ago, but an ARF wasn't 'almost ready' enough for him at the time. It is made for a cox 1/2 A or O.S. Pet 10 glow engine and has a wingspan of 46 inches.
Has anyone converted this to electric? If so, what motor and battery combination did you use? Also, what would you cover it with? It is all white foam.

Thanks,
Chad
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Old Jul 11, 2001, 08:33 PM
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Try a sp400 6V with a 2.5 or 3.0:1 GB and 8 600ae. Prop it for app 9.5 amps for longer flights { 10x6 or ?? }.

Keep the weight down.

Ray
Old Jul 11, 2001, 09:44 PM
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I knew someone who flew one on glow power lots earlier than 1985 -- try 1975 -- and the airplane flew delightfully on an OS .10. He left the wheels off (authentic Cardinal RG) and it did good things for performance. I always have regretted selling my kit before I built it. This thing being foam, the wing was thick and so were the tail surfaces. It is a draggy airplane. That might seriously affect performance with relatively low power.

[This message has been edited by PeterH (edited 07-11-2001).]
Old Jul 11, 2001, 11:18 PM
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Learned to fly on one of those and still have the Enya .15 I used gathering dust in the corner. The airframe was designed for glow power and is way over designed for electric. I would use a 600 size motor and a 7/8 cell pack, standard servos or equivalent torque. Reinforce the bottom of the wing with strapping tape/ 2 strips / probably not needed except for the piece of mind it will give you. I used point hinges and better push rods than those in the kit - much freer. The wing is flat bottomed and one of the curious things about that type airfoil is as you change speed from level flight they require trim changes to get the thing to fly level again at the new speed. Not really a problem but something to be aware of. I wrapped the nose section with fiberglass/epoxy as I tore off the firewall/nose section several times before this repair. I would finish the airframe with a foam compatable paint(light coat only) or a low temperature film. I don't think you will be able to lighten the airframe except by leaving the landing gear off. If you fly from grass - no problem - add a couple of inches of extra glass to the bottom - hand launch and skid it in when the power drops. Hope this helps and good luck.


[This message has been edited by BHaines (edited 07-11-2001).]
Old Jul 12, 2001, 08:10 AM
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I just converted a Sure Flite 53" Cessna 182 to Epower with a sp600, 2.5 GB, 8 2400 and a 12X10 apc prop.

Sp600 with gb = 16oz
8X2400 = 16oz
all the rest = 26oz
= 58oz=complete dog.

This kit has a semi symmetrical wing and a flat bottom would be much better but the weight overpowers the 420 sq in of wing area. I think the same would be the case for the Midwest kit. Hence the recomendation for the light weight set up.

Both of these kits were designed for a .10 with probably a auw of 2.5 lbs.

A 450 or 480 with 8 800ar might work good also.

I have a Kyosho 180 that I am going to try next.

Ray
Old Jul 12, 2001, 08:15 AM
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Thanks guys.

BHaines - did you set it up for ailerons, or did you just have the rudder/elevator? I'd like to do ailerons (directions say they're optional, no hardware included). They have aileron cut-outs on the end of the wing, but I was thinking of putting them closer to the fuse so I get more prop wind over them at low speeds. Comments?

Chad
Old Jul 12, 2001, 08:30 AM
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I encourage you to forget the ailerons. The wing is molded with the appropriate dihedral to allow 2-axis controls. Leave it be. You can't spend the weight anyway. Ailerons closer to the centerline are called 'flaps', not much use but creating drag.
Old Jul 13, 2001, 12:01 AM
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I had ailerons in mine. Single servo, mounted in the bottom of the wing (cabin area) 90 degree bell cranks at the ailerons, mounted on plywood plates about mid aileron span???? Everything hooked up with pushrods buried in slots cut in the underside of the wing. Hope you understand the explanation!!!
I don't remember how much it weighed with a 6 Oz tank, Enya .15, and 4 servos, receiver and batteries and glassed nose section, but it was not a lightweight and it flew great. I would fly it rudder/elevator sometimes just for practice and it flew well that way. Stock ailerons are very effective.
If it were me and I had the 600 size equipment already, I would give it a try. I would put the landing gear on it and taxi test on a paved runway, up to the point of take off to see it it had enough umph to fly. I bet it will. That wing generates a lot of lift. Good luck and keep us posted.

[This message has been edited by BHaines (edited 07-12-2001).]
Old Jul 13, 2001, 01:41 AM
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WOW, that brings back some memories! My first IC plane with an OS 10 (yes I did at one time fly IC) Mine had full size liniar kraft servos (2 ozs each!) Lets try the early 70's!

Yes, go with the S500 with a GB setup. It is way overbuilt for a S400. It flys fine on R/E with the clark Y in stock form.
Old Jul 13, 2001, 04:35 AM
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Someone in this forum has a converted Ranger42 which is almost identical in dimension. I was thinking it was one of the moderators. Fred was that you?

Old Jul 13, 2001, 08:43 AM
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It does look too heavy for a 400. Also, it is already partially assembled by my friend so I can't make it all that light. Thanks for the tips and keep them coming!

Fred - First test flying my Twinjet at MARCEE and now this, THANKS!! btw, the tj and I are getting along well.

Chad
Old Jul 13, 2001, 04:36 PM
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The Ranger 42 (still have a MINT one on my wall covered in yellow solarfilm! ) and the Cardinal are quite different. The R42 I flew with a S500 can motor DD with no problems. Now I would use a geared S400 in it.

The Cardinal should work with a S500, but I would gear it too.


Hey Chad! Glad to hear you and the TJ are getting along good. Any more early heating issues?

You all ever notivce how the Graupner planes get ID'd with just letters after awhile???

TJ, TS, PJ, PJC, ???????


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