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Old Apr 20, 2012, 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by GuppyG View Post
Those are cool. Have you posted a how-to or a link to one someone else has posted on the process and materials?

scott.
Hi Mate,

Nope haven't posted any how-to or anything. I just carved one master blade from balsa, then made a two part mold from it. Simple as.

I'm still testing which resins are suitable for use. I've had a few fly apart in previous attempts, but I'm pretty sure that was due to my lack of patience. The resin hadn't fully cured.

Cheers,

Steve
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Old Apr 20, 2012, 06:55 PM
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@ Orion & mpodder - Are you guys using normal epoxy to glue the windings back on, or are you using metal epoxy?
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:07 PM
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I just used regular 15 min epoxy but you are right something like JB weld would be better.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:16 PM
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Well I just tried keying the mount. It created the bur and it was small enough, but since its just a little but and its soft aluminum, It just rounded flat trying to put on the armature. So making it key is out but just as I was about to mix up some epoxy, Steve, you proposed a great idea. JB weld. Didn't even think of it. JB weld isn't conducive in any way is it. Don't want to short anything out.

Orion
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:19 PM
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Not sure about it being conductive, but as you're joining metal to metal it wouldn't matter.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:21 PM
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Well I don't know much about electric motors but I am certain it will get on the copper windings and I hope that they are not separated in some way that JB Weld could mess up.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:24 PM
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Well I went to JB Welds FAQ and no it does not conduct electricity and you must clean the metal with acetone or laquer thinner. You can not use alcohol because it leaves a residue. So I am off to the store to get some JB Weld.

Orion
Old Apr 20, 2012, 07:28 PM
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I think it will be far stronger than normal epoxy. As far as the copper windings go, they should be enameled anyway, so it wouldn't matter if JB was conductive.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Orion Pax View Post
Well I went to JB Welds FAQ and no it does not conduct electricity and you must clean the metal with acetone or laquer thinner. You can not use alcohol because it leaves a residue. So I am off to the store to get some JB Weld.

Orion
if its not to late could you please video or at least take some snap shots of what you are doing. plan to do the same thing when i get home.

B
Old Apr 20, 2012, 08:08 PM
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Yup, getting ready to start the video now. Once done I will upload it tonight.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 08:20 PM
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http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2638

Just saw this on Phillup's website. It was posted 3 days ago. Not sure if this is FMS's correction and will be included in all of the new FW-190 kits or if this is the same motor. Going to email Phillup and ask.

B
Old Apr 20, 2012, 09:52 PM
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So I have let the metal epoxy set up for an hour and it is already stronger. Its going to take 24 hours for it to be solid so I am going to leave it be till then but after an hour it seems very promising.

Orion
Old Apr 20, 2012, 10:32 PM
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Originally Posted by rbong40 View Post
http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.php/products_id/2638

Just saw this on Phillup's website. It was posted 3 days ago. Not sure if this is FMS's correction and will be included in all of the new FW-190 kits or if this is the same motor. Going to email Phillup and ask.

B
I odred the FW kit with and wanted this motor from Philip last week so he got the motor in for me. I imagine he ordered a few so he could list them on his site. I don't know if it is any better but as it is not attached to the airframe I can make sure of it's quality before I install it. For me it seems that the performance is not an issue just the quality of manufacture. So With the kit and motor combo I can make sure all is well before flight. Win - Win.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 10:52 PM
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I'm stoked, my motor turned up. Post office said it was in the US but it was actually in my POST box.
Old Apr 20, 2012, 11:33 PM
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Video is producing and I will upload in the morning.


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