1/24 Truckable Towboat hull in fiberglass - Page 19 - RC Groups
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Sep 13, 2012, 12:34 AM
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CaptCB's Avatar

Battery's


I did another tub test, and with the way I laid out the motor and servo, I can get a full size (sub c), 5 cell flat pack on either side of the motor. I will still have about 12oz of weight needed in the back of the boat, and 2-4oz in the bow. CB
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Sep 13, 2012, 10:49 AM
WooHoo!
woodybob's Avatar
Looks great Charlie, nice lay-out. Nothin' beats large, in-focus shots.
Sep 13, 2012, 11:38 AM
some what irregular
dostacos's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptCB
Here is how I laid out the motor and servo. The motor mount is Aluminum and wood, and the servo mount is made out of 1/8'' G-10, epoxy-glass sheet. Both are glued together, and into the hull, with GORILLA, CA glue, and some speed spray, to set it off as needed. CB
where do you get the G-10? and the little blue goobers that are covering the grease ports on da stuffing tubes?
Sep 13, 2012, 01:32 PM
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CaptCB's Avatar

Dan


The G-10 came from my scrap pile, as most all the boats I have built in the last 15+ years, have G-10 decks, and sub decks. Not a real easy material to fab, but properly installed, it's almost indestructible. The BLUE caps, are just vinyl automotive vacume caps, that I have shortened. The current goal is to have it pushing a barge, at Riverside. I get the G-10 from a Plastics House, by Angels Stadium. CB
Sep 14, 2012, 11:16 PM
1/2 a bubble off
Apismelifera's Avatar

Multipurpose Garolite (G-10)


I have bought some from McMaster before.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3616/=jaobdf

Scroll down a little.
Sep 19, 2012, 06:32 PM
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CaptCB's Avatar

What i have gotten done recently


I am still hoping to run the boat Sunday, in Riverside. This is how the rudder linkage laid out, notice that the end links are 90 degrees, to the push rod. Here are some semi-painted, and hull painted, shots. And yes, there are some hand made Aluminum parts, on the hull. The channel on the push knees is the same dimensions as the kit parts, just machined out of one piece of Aluminum. I plan on using this boat a lot, so I did a bit of overkill, in some areas. CB
Sep 20, 2012, 09:25 AM
Registered User
That looks like a heavy duty linkage setup - not very much play in that? I'm about to hook up two Springer linkages - is this worth a try?
Look forward to hearing how it runs on Sunday.
Thanks, Mike
Sep 20, 2012, 02:13 PM
WooHoo!
woodybob's Avatar
Hey... I want aluminum too!
Sep 20, 2012, 03:17 PM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar

Pat


Between the materials, and the many hours of work needed to make the parts, it would have at least doubled, the cost of the kit, to do anything like that. I have over two days, of hand mill, and lathe work, to make the parts. Then cleanup with file and sandpaper. That was after I acquired the raw materials, and figured out the dimensions. I just wanted the ability to MISUSE the boat, and hopefully not break anything. My other pushboats, are built the same way. CB
Sep 20, 2012, 03:22 PM
some what irregular
dostacos's Avatar
why do you have the control link crossing over the centerline? It seems that you would have better access to the refill tubes for the stuffing tubes if the servo was on the same side as the control horn of the rudder. just wondering...
Sep 20, 2012, 03:58 PM
WooHoo!
woodybob's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptCB
Between the materials, and the many hours of work needed to make the parts, it would have at least doubled, the cost of the kit, to do anything like that. I have over two days, of hand mill, and lathe work, to make the parts. Then cleanup with file and sandpaper. That was after I acquired the raw materials, and figured out the dimensions. I just wanted the ability to MISUSE the boat, and hopefully not break anything. My other pushboats, are built the same way. CB
Aw shucks...
Sep 20, 2012, 04:02 PM
Keep a Steady Strain....
capntroy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by woodybob
Aw shucks...
The molded polymer bulwarks are nicer anyways...
Sep 20, 2012, 04:43 PM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar

Dostacos and all,


The reason I offset the rudder servo was to not have it, over the driveline. I need to be able to access the universal driveshaft parts, both with an allen wrench, and the Dogbone, with my fingers. I experimented with several different layouts, and this seemed to be the best for access, after, the deck is on. CB
Sep 20, 2012, 05:07 PM
r/c ships and workboats
Looking good Charlie. Have to get a couple more photos of mine now that I have my home made motor mount glued in and awating the power system to the prop! not much room inside once the lid is on and had to do the same as far as figuring out easiest access to any part that may need work.
Sep 20, 2012, 05:34 PM
Registered User
Think we forget how much smaller the working area is from a Springer or Alan B style hull. Looks good!


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