I got the PDF files from Peter Rake before Christmas, and this week I want to start building it. I printed out the parts I need on A4 paper, and glued together. I want to build by cutting my own parts, so how long time it will take, I do not know.

(If there would be something wrong or unclear in the text, please let me know, since English is not my native language)
(Google Translator helps some)

Bjørn,
You appear to be off to a good start. If there is anything that puzzles you about the plan, just post a question and I'll try to answer it.

It will be nice to get another design that's been hanging about a while completed. Thanks for taking on this one.

Pete

I'm a bit concerned about the space between the upper and lower part of F1
(marked red),
when someone want to make a bigger battery hole(marked green).
It won't break on a noseover?
One solution is to add a area on MM2 and MM3 (in blue) to get a larger grip area.

If you nose over hard enough tot break an 1/8 birch ply bulkhead, I think that will be the least of your worries. If you're worried about it, how about moving the servos down and extending the hole in that direction. How big a pack were you thinking of fitting?

Pete

Originally Posted by PETERRAKE

If you nose over hard enough tot break an 1/8 birch ply bulkhead, I think that will be the least of your worries. If you're worried about it, how about moving the servos down and extending the hole in that direction. How big a pack were you thinking of fitting?

Pete

The packs are 25-27 mm high , and 35 mm width (3 cell 2200 mAh ), so I have to take out 4-5 mm.

Here are some more on the DH 6.

Originally Posted by bth

I got the PDF files from Peter Rake before Christmas, and this week I want to start building it. I printed out the parts I need on A4 paper, and glued together. I want to build by cutting my own parts, so how long time it will take, I do not know.

(If there would be something wrong or unclear in the text, please let me know, since English is not my native language)
(Google Translator helps some)

When I need to use a translator, I find using more than one is useful for checking accuracy. Another translator is the Systran site: http://www.systranet.com/translate

As well as using multiple translators, I will take the translated results and translate it back to the original language. Sometimes the results will suggest a better word to use as a source.

James

Todays work outside in the sun.

How do I delete this message ?

More done on the fuselage.

Technical Details for AXi 2814/20:
No. of cells (LiPo) 3-4
RPM/V 840 Kv
Max. Efficiency 83%
No load current 0.7A
Maximum Load 25.0A
Internal Resistance 0.145Ω
Diameter 35.00mm (1.38")
Length 37.00mm (1.46")
Shaft Diameter 4.00mm (0.16")
Max. Efficiency Current 8 - 17A (>75%)
Glow Equivalent .20
Weight 106.0g (3.7oz.)
£55.79 exc. VAT

The motor I have ordered:
Turnigy D3536/8 1000KV Brushless Outrunner Motor
Spec.
Battery: 2~4 Cell /7.4~14.8V
RPM: 1000kv
Max current: 30A
No load current: 1.7A
Max power: 430W
Internal resistance: 0.052 ohm
Weight: 102g (including connectors)
Diameter of shaft: 5mm
Dimensions: 35x36m
Prop size: 7.4V/11x5 14.8V/10x6
Max thrust: 1160g
$15.99

Sounds fair enough. I know the AXIs are expensive, but they're the ones I feel I get most reliable specifications for - and I could get good drawings of them.

Originally Posted by PETERRAKE

Sounds fair enough. I know the AXIs are expensive, but they're the ones I feel I get most reliable specifications for - and I could get good drawings of them.

I think you should keep using AXI, it is easy to find motor matcing.

Top cower on fuselage.

Motor cowling. I replaced the bottom with balsa. It is drawn with 1/8 (3 mm) ply. Have to add the scoop.