Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Oct 01, 2012, 10:56 PM
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So I can use two 1600 Mah, 3 cell lipos in my 48" with a 13 x 6.5 or 14 x 7 and get 9 minutes?

What would that do to my AUW?

What motor would do such a thing?

Seems a bit out there?
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Old Oct 02, 2012, 01:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dead View Post
What kind of flight time would this give relative to the stock, 4s setup?
I was getting 10 minutes but i was using two 3s 2200mAh batteries, which are too heavy for serious 3D work.

Bottom line is you will get similar flight time to what you could expect from a 4s battery of the same total weight as your 6s battery.. there is no free lunch.

A 6s 1600mAh battery will weigh the same as a 4s 2400mAh (1600 x 6/4 = 2400), and you would expect similar flight time, maybe a shade more on the 6s due to better efficiency but no major difference.
Old Oct 02, 2012, 10:10 AM
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Thanks Jet.

What prop would that be? Where would you find such a motor?
Old Oct 02, 2012, 02:26 PM
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The motor I was using in the HK Slick was the Turnigy L3040 480kv. This worked great in the Slick but would be much too long and too heavy for a 48" EXP.

To be honest I cant think of a single off the shelf motor small enough and with low enough kv to work on 6s in a 48" EXP. The only option might be to ask Ken to wind you a DM2820 to about 480kv. That would spin a 14" prop. For a 13" prop on 6s you would be looking at about 530kv. Or re-wind one yourself if you're into that sort of thing.

Steve
Old Oct 02, 2012, 07:37 PM
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Thanks
Old Oct 02, 2012, 11:18 PM
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Woo-hoo. I've got a new Laser and B and E Graphix package coming. I used one of those packages on my first Laser and was really pleased with it.


By the time I got my first Laser finished with the graphix and all, I had wrecked the poor thing Laser three times. It was already getting pretty beat, so I decided to build another one. I like a good project and the first Laser went together really, really well.
Last edited by Doc Austin; Oct 02, 2012 at 11:25 PM.
Old Oct 03, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Nice Doc! My first one is still grooving nicely, very much like a old glove... Perfect!!!


Jet, You guys are truly pushing the experimental envelope with that setup, I thought I was pushing it by increasing my torque setup to peak, watts, and amps.

By running 60-120c 4s 2200's, and bumping up my wood prop(wood is less aggressive) a bit(fully experimental, I assume all responsibly for the equipment), I was able to target 800watts at 50amp on a full charge, It drops to 700watts@45amps after 1minute. With cooling baffles,vented spinner, a larger ESC cooling hole, and some throttle management, My setup is running cool to the touch, and is crazy powerful for six full minutes! These torque motors are amazing!!!!
Last edited by Ducati Mechanic; Oct 03, 2012 at 10:13 AM.
Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:10 AM
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Tim,
are you not putting the front of the spinner on to keep it vented?
Old Oct 03, 2012, 11:25 AM
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Yes I'm running the spinner, I just open the plastic cone around the prop blades a hair, for more flow.
Old Oct 03, 2012, 12:24 PM
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I love this plane. It is so much like an Extra EXP that I was completely at ease with it instantly. The Laser does seem to be a bit more floaty and a bit more stable than the Extra. Remember that when I compare planes to the Extra EXP, that is the highest compliment I can pay an airplane.

Also, the Laser harriers almost as well as the Edge EXP, which is saying something.

Flying wise, what sets the Laser apart for me is that it does some really weird gyroscopic stuff. For instance, if you hit it just right , the laser will blow out of a pop top tail first, and actually squirt across the sky flying backwards. I did a few of those in my last video. Looks really weird and people freak out when they see it. On the new Laser, we will try it without the SFGs to see just how crazy the pop tops and tumbles can be. I am betting it will be plenty crazy.

Tumbles are simply stupid with this plane, and KE spins are a matter of placing the sticks in the right position and waiting for the KE spin auto pilot to come on. It's ridiculously easy with this plane.

I've got a 25 flights report nearly ready, but I'de like to pop out a new video for that one, so it will have to wait a week or so. Until then I'll probably post some construction photos as I build the new one and apply the awesome B and E Graphix package..

At this point I am not sure if I like this plane as much as the Extra or if it is an emotional attachment from wanting one for 32 years. I do know that it flies damm nice and it is truely worthy of the EXP designation.

The laser EXP is officially bad ass.
Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:15 PM
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Quote:
With cooling baffles,vented spinner, a larger ESC cooling hole,
Tell you what I found to the the most effective way to get motor temps down.. I formed some 'scoops' out of acetate sheet. The scoop glue into the cowl behind the cowl inlet and turn the air directly onto the side of the motor. So far I just use one scoop so as I get a cross flow over the motor and still retain a direct flow from the opposite inlet onto the ESC. I've never compared the scoop to the standard EF baffles but I'd be pretty sure the scoop would work better because it channels the air direct at the motor rather than just giving it a push in the general direction.

This had quite a significant effect on temperature (which I can monitor with telemetry). Typically I'm only seeing 10-15C above ambient even with a motor that's running 33% over it's stated amp limit.
Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 04:37 PM
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
Tell you what I found to the the most effective way to get motor temps down.. I formed some 'scoops' out of acetate sheet. The scoop glue into the cowl behind the cowl inlet and turn the air directly onto the side of the motor. So far I just use one scoop so as I get a cross flow over the motor and still retain a direct flow from the opposite inlet onto the ESC. I've never compared the scoop to the standard EF baffles but I'd be pretty sure the scoop would work better because it channels the air direct at the motor rather than just giving it a push in the general direction.

This had quite a significant effect on temperature (which I can monitor with telemetry). Typically I'm only seeing 10-15C above ambient even with a motor that's running 33% over it's stated amp limit.

Nice! I did something similar with my larger 78" Extra. Using a scrap piece of carbon fiber, I made a "clam shell" style cooling vent on one side. The cross flow works out nicely with the BEC pro mounted on the other side.

When setting up the laser, due to the size of the vents, and light weight of the laser I wanted equal drag. It worked out great because the air is forced directly over the battery. both systems dropped my temps by over 30%!!
Old Oct 03, 2012, 04:41 PM
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now you just need a CF prop to complete the look.

I'm thinking about springing for one of these for my Laser.

they make a 12x6 also, for you torque heads.
Old Oct 05, 2012, 12:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Doc Austin View Post
Woo-hoo. I've got a new Laser and B and E Graphix package coming. I used one of those packages on my first Laser and was really pleased with it.


By the time I got my first Laser finished with the graphix and all, I had wrecked the poor thing Laser three times. It was already getting pretty beat, so I decided to build another one. I like a good project and the first Laser went together really, really well.
Is that a e-flite aluminum spinner I see?


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