Massive Overkill's V911 mods - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Aug 04, 2012, 12:10 PM
Registered User
sorry guys, will response to posts later, bird stuck on tree, about to rain soon oh my god
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Aug 04, 2012, 01:17 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Producer
sorry guys, will response to posts later, bird stuck on tree, about to rain soon oh my god


Rescue the heli!!!!

Good luck with it. We'll be here when you get back.
Aug 04, 2012, 05:58 PM
Registered User
Okay guys, just crashed into my neighbor's tree, brought it down in 2 pieces.

A broken tail boom. It broke close to the joint where you insert into the main frame. A note to whoever reading this, DO NOT EVER "CA" your tail boom where the joint is. If you ever CA this part, you will probably CA the the tail to the main frame AND tail rotor wire as well. So now you got to buy new main frame, new tail boom and new tail rotor.

My V911 is not as it was before, drifting backwards and forwards all the time. SIGH...
Last edited by Producer; Aug 04, 2012 at 08:25 PM.
Aug 07, 2012, 05:19 AM
Registered User
MassiveOverkill's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by D.plomat
Hello MassiveOverkill!

First thanks for this ton of useful information on the V911.
I did first the TX resistor mod, changed a lot. On one side but not another as now i can do nice narrowing swirls turns on one side, but not yet the other... I used 1K5 resistors, i think i'll solder 1K or 820 on the still too fast side or maybe get a real 9X TX with expo.

Then the black Delrin wheel and acetone-removal of the warning writings, still have to find black servo arms and a black-capped Bravo SX motor and there'll be no more white plastic in it

About the paddles mod my humble feedback:
I first tried with the SR120 paddles, those doesn't fit well the corter, first not enough clearance with blades and the motor was overstraining (1,3 g each paddle, and they're very thick), then a lot of filing(first on the thick side then width) and balancing and when it became not overstraining it would fly about as stable as without flybar at all (tested with a flybar without anything to check).

But when i received the MSR05 paddles... wow!

Hassle-free installation, perfectly fits a stock flybar with weights cut-off, and brings a 2g total flybar exactly as stock one.

And for the result: now she's BLAZING against the wind while keeping all of her stability, thanks again for this wonderful upgrade!
I can only backup stating TX resistor and paddles as must-have mods
Glad it worked for you, make sure you update the main thread about your paddle experience. Sorry about your latest mishap. I'd like to thank the rest of you all for answering the questions as I don't always get a chance to check my blog for posts, and it's also been nice to not have to moderate my blog as everyone's been behaving so well
Aug 09, 2012, 11:13 AM
Registered User
Hi, I teach a simple method to mod the tx to reduce rudder response? Thanks
Aug 11, 2012, 09:43 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Producer


On an unrelated mod topic, how should i advance after this bird. Was thinking of a collective pitch heli. Any suggestions massive? Local shop is telling me to follow up with a Trex 450. Can i get some suggestions from fellow hobbyist here rather then a RC heli business owner?
hello producer.

I just brought a 450 heli (ebay trex clone) it's quite a lot harder to fly than the humble v911. It sure is quite stable but you cant just "drive it" like the v911.
I suppose you get used to it, I have only hovered it a few times.

Was supposed to be ready to fly but when I checked everything before the first flight, All the controls were mixed up. So if you do get a 450 it's a good idea to have someone with experience to help you with it. A local club or something.
I'm on my own with it and it's a steep learning curve, the internet is helpful of course.
check this guy's site for a few ideas on a "cheap" 450 build:

http://mikeysrc.com/Low-Cost-450-Heli.html

Depends on how big is the area you got to fly it? In some countries you cant fly a big chopper like that in a public area. like a park or sports field.

As others have said there is a lot out there. If you decide that you don't want the 450, maybe try a bigger fixed pitch like a
esky honey bee. I have no personal experience with that one, but a friend of mine said it's good as a first or second FP.

cheers to all
Aug 14, 2012, 04:04 PM
Registered User
MassiveOverkill's Avatar
Producer, check your swashplate for seperation. David, are you saying you're looking for an easier way to do the resistor mod or you know of an easier way to do it?
Aug 27, 2012, 07:41 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Hey,

How did you secure the MSR Xtreme paddles to the Xtreme CF solo pro flybar? yes, the slide right on but there's nothing there to keep them attached. The screws go in but they don't secure to anything.

I also tried the MSR Xtreme paddles with two of my stock V911 flybars. I found that there may be a "v1" version of the flybar as well since the screw in what can only be my "v2" flybar is too wide for the flybar hole! The other flybar was purchased a month or two later and so the screw fit that one just fine...
Aug 28, 2012, 05:32 AM
Registered User
MassiveOverkill's Avatar
Hey Robo, the screws act as a clamp down as you discovered in the main thread.

It's possible WL Toys could have gone with a Solo Pro design which uses a floating feathering shaft pin which is smaller than the V911. If they did, the flybar would also be thicker and bind in the feather shaft head without being sanded down.
Aug 28, 2012, 09:30 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Gotcha. Thanks for the advice in the main thread, as well. I did a quick test on the flybar this morning and the heli hovered pretty well. I'm going to make a few more flybars (since I have 3 more paddle sets) and this time I'll sand down the clipped shafts so that I can put more of the shaft into the paddle. I think I'd like to try making the paddles as long as a stock MSR flybar. That way I can compare my paddled V911 against my 9958 with the MSR flybar and, of course, the original MSR. I'm looking forward to the upcoming 3-day weekend to do a lot of outdoor flying. Let's hope for good weather!!!
Aug 28, 2012, 11:06 AM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
Just to get it myself straight...we are sticking the flybar into the bigger of the center holes on the Extreme paddle correct?

Last night, I looked for an object that can be stuck perfectly into the flybar pivot hole. That gave me a good straight, perpendicular reference to align the paddle to.
Aug 28, 2012, 12:33 PM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Daryoon
Just to get it myself straight...we are sticking the flybar into the bigger of the center holes on the Extreme paddle correct?
Yeah. Here's the reference picture that I used last night from MOK's first post in this thread:

Sep 10, 2012, 08:39 PM
Who said chickens can't fly??!
ElChick's Avatar

Newbie!! Love my Corter! Questions, tho...


[QUOTE=MassiveOverkill;21484131]
...If your main motor ever goes, make sure you upgrade to the Bravo SX motor (black cap if possible)...


Yay, my first post!!

Maybe I missed it, but is there a good link to finding one of those black capped SX motors? I'm having a dickens of a time trying to find one online.

On another note, I'm brand new to 4Ch heli's (upgraded from my Syma 107...fun, but quickly got boring!), and just got my Blue/White "Corter" less than a week ago. The main gear was warped out of the box, so I'll have to replace it, as it vibrates quite a bit.

It also has an almost TBE effect, and will not hover in one place, but moves around quite a bit. The flybar moves freely, but is not too loose or too tight, and is not missing a weight on either end. The swash assembly is also together, and has not separated. I can't seem to get it to hover long enough without crashing to really effect any of the trim buttons on the Tx to see if that fixes it. I've tried a turn or two on the servo link arms, but it hasn't seemed to do anything. Any other ideas on what I am missing? My house seems a bit small for this "Corter" indoors, and outdoors I can't get a true reading as it has been a bit gusty. I'm taking it to a gymnasium tonight to see if I can work out some more of the kinks in a larger controlled environment. I've already ordered a CNC swash assembly and head (link: http://www.myrcmart.com/rcx-high-qua...5hf09213d3fde5 ), and just waiting on it to arrive. Hopefully that stabilizes things.

In your experience, what is the real difference between going with paddles and using the weights on a shorter flybar? I've seen conflicting opinions on the net, and would like to hear back from all of you.

Other than those annoying drawbacks thus far, I am LOVING this 'copter! So responsive and fast!!! WELL worth the upgrade from the 3Ch heli's!!!!

Sorry about the long post with all the different questions, but I really appreciate this thread. The other one is really good, but takes forever to go thru to find help. Thanks Massive Overkill for documenting your mods for all of us!!!
Sep 10, 2012, 10:04 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
Welcome ElChick.

If you are coming from a S107 and are new to these fixed pitch heli. Definitely fly it with the stock flybar. It does a good job of stabilizing. Chances are, if you begin modding and putting on paddles on your flybar...things could get squirrely quick and be beyond your abilities to pilot it. No offense intended.
Sep 11, 2012, 09:56 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
I concur with Daryoon. The V911 has a lot to offer as stock and I think a lot of new fliers make the mistake of assuming that they HAVE to upgrade right away otherwise they're missing out on something. I'm currently working with a new TRex 100X flier right now who just got his bird and tried replacing lots of different parts in the head with 3rd party "upgrades" and now the thing doesn't fly right at all.

Enjoy the stock flight characteristics and after you get really good with it and have a lot of stick time you can consider experimenting.

In answer to your question, in my experience, a shorter and lighter flybar will make the heli more responsive to quick motions but also less stable. It will be easier to lose control of and crash--especially indoors. I'm flying with a shorter set of paddled flybars right now (paddles mainly because I know how to install those--I don't know how to install weights on a shorter flybar yet) but I'm thinking of going back to stock because outdoors, the shorter flybar makes long stretches of forward flight harder to do because it tries to level the blades faster than a longer one. I like the squirrely indoor feel because all I do is turn, but that was only after having had the heli for a few months.

Just remember that pretty much any of these modifications will really only have a very small effect on the performance of the helicopter. If you're looking to get a major change in feel you really need to go as far as getting a second bird from a different manufacturer. I alternate flying my V911, 9958, MSR, TRex 100X, and MSRX helis and that variety keeps things fresh for me all the time.

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