RC trailer build - RC Groups
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Feb 22, 2012, 12:48 PM
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RC trailer build


I looked high and low for a suitable rc trailer and found nothing i could afford so I built not one but two .I found no to little resources on how to build one so I am willing to share my project pics with all of you and more detailed information if PMed .All so i would like to add I am no carpender I am a auto tech by trade both of these trailers were bilt with basic wood working tools would love to see what other people have done so lets see it!
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Feb 22, 2012, 01:46 PM
An itch?. Scratch build.
eflightray's Avatar
Here's a thread that was down in the 'Similar Threads' list - Custom Build Trailer Build Thread
Feb 22, 2012, 01:49 PM
Waiting for the paint to dry.
ctrout's Avatar
Nice build Twinstick
Looking around at the price tags I thought the same thing. just build or change something to work with.
$300 for a 19' camper.
I pulled apart the back end to build a door and rebuilt the parts from gutting it for a work area.
I'm still building and hope to be done before its time to fly.
ct
Mar 08, 2012, 10:23 AM
Registered User
Both trailers look very good, I really like the idea of the 19' camper. I am using a small camping trailer that I got from my parents. I am thinking about raising the height a little and extending it a bit longer.
Mar 08, 2012, 05:56 PM
Registered User
A few questions, what thickness of plywood are you using, and or why did you use osb vs plywood? I assume the frame is standard 2x2. I have some extra 3/8" think outdoor plastic that I can have from work that might work well.

On a side issue, do you know, does a trailer bounce less if the weight is towards the front or the back? I am wondering where to put the heavy items like a 12 volt battery and flight box.

Thanks
Mar 09, 2012, 08:56 AM
Registered User
My tow rig. Less than 500lbs ready to go flying, 40lbs tongue weight, 10'x4'x3', made from 1x2's and 1/4" luann wood. The honda civic gets 27mpg towing. My other aircraft carrier is in the back ground, F350, dually, 4x4, diesel, at 16mpg. My round trip to go flying is 72miles. 6 years and still going strong. Its a harbor freight freight frame.
If I were to do another, I would make it wider like yours is extending over the wheels.
Edwin
Mar 10, 2012, 06:37 AM
Bellanca Kruesair
epoxyearl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by minnreefer
A few questions, what thickness of plywood are you using, and or why did you use osb vs plywood? I assume the frame is standard 2x2. I have some extra 3/8" think outdoor plastic that I can have from work that might work well.

On a side issue, do you know, does a trailer bounce less if the weight is towards the front or the back? I am wondering where to put the heavy items like a 12 volt battery and flight box.

Thanks
Trailers always want to be "tongue heavy"-experienced.
Latest blog entry: Rut-roh !
Mar 10, 2012, 08:44 AM
Registered User
I put mine on the tongue end, and estimate the pit box, garden tractor battery, and starter are about 20lbs. The transmitter box and tool box go in the trunk. My trailer is pretty well balanced on the axle, just a tad towards the tongue when empty, it makes it easy to man handle and put it where I store it. A harbor freight axle is pretty light duty with springs rated at 1000lbs and does bounce a bit on rough roads, but no more than my truck did. I keep things pretty well fastened down in the trailer. On standard paved roads I find no problems towing, nice and smooth. Its the last 300 yards on gravel to the field gate that I have to slow down to 15mph or so. Northern Tools sells torsion axles for a pretty cheap price but I think their minimum is 1000lbs too. If I ever build from scratch, I'll try a torsion axle.
Edwin
A footnote: When I built my trailer, those popup campers disappeared. They were everywhere when I didnt need one.


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