Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:42 PM
wblacker is offline
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Very, very nice mod. I am not so daring. I would fear not getting the thrust angle correct.
Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:42 PM
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Originally Posted by moxjett View Post
I've been flying mine on HS-65MG's Dead, and they've been doing fine. I do need to add these though to get some more throw, especially for the elevator.
The longer the arm the less force you get on the surface. Double the length you get half the force (the law of lever arms).. So just because these 65MG's are ok with short arms don't mean they will still be of with long ones, be careful.

steve
Last edited by JetPlaneFlyer; Mar 12, 2012 at 07:48 PM.
Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by moxjett View Post
Lame flying I know, but it takes me longer then the average joe to get comfortable with a plane. I also need to either replace the elevator servo with a HS-85MG for get more throw out of the HS-65MG

Not lame at all! looks right spritley to me dood. I excited
Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by wblacker View Post
Very, very nice mod. I am not so daring. I would fear not getting the thrust angle correct.
There is no risk of the thrust angle being off because I cut right behind the motor mount stiffeners, you can use the stiffeners as a cutting guide, you cant go wrong. Then move the mount back until the front was flush with the cut points, this 100% ensures that you retain the stock thrust offsets.
Old Mar 12, 2012, 07:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bildo baggins View Post
Not lame at all! looks right spritley to me dood. I excited
I was about to say the same. If that's what a lame flight looks like, I'm almost frightened to see what an awesome flight with this bird looks like. Ok, I think Wargo set the bar there, but still...

I'm SO excited about this one. PLEEEEASE ship it already, you fine folks on the other side of the planet!
Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:05 PM
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I was going back through looking at the verious pictures posted in this thread and I saw a picture where someone was installing the elevator had cut the wood of the rudder to get the elevator installed.

I built two of these over the weekend and did not have to cut the rudder section out. You need to flip the elevator where the trailing edge faces forward and use the angles to slide it in. Then you can slide the horizontal stab in. Then you just need to install the hinges. they are flexible and you can slide them into the horizontal stab and eleveator very easily.
Old Mar 12, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wblacker View Post
You need to flip the elevator where the trailing edge faces forward and use the angles to slide it in. Then you can slide the horizontal stab in. Then you just need to install the hinges. they are flexible and you can slide them into the horizontal stab and eleveator very easily.
Yep, that's exactly how I did it. Turn the elevator backward and jiggle it through the slot, turn it back the correct way then slide the tailplane through. No need whatsoever to cut the rudder post.
Old Mar 12, 2012, 11:46 PM
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The fella that cut the wood out doesn't have this plane no more.... our friend long leng didn't use enough thin CA and it turned into tooth picks the other day.

The wood doesn't need to be cut, the elevator slide right in then the horizontal stab.
Last edited by bigroger; Mar 13, 2012 at 01:50 AM.
Old Mar 13, 2012, 12:32 AM
ryanotown22 is offline
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Anyone able to balance the plane yet with cg mine was tail heavy just wondering how these new builds are coming along with the proper equipment
Old Mar 13, 2012, 01:51 AM
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Mine balanced fine with the Motrofloy Dm2820-750, carbon spinner, 60A plush esc, 40C4s2200 turnigy lipo.

The lipo was 50% under the cowl.

And I have an HS85MG in the elevator.
Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:59 AM
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Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
I decided that the first job would be to chop the motor box to suit my approx 70mm long Scorpion motor. This turned out to be a reasonably straightforward job, i didnt even need to make any new parts. Attached photos...
Nice Job!

Question: Was the mounting plate simply glued to the ends of the wood at the four corners or was there some sort of notch connection? IF it was simply glued originally I am surprised that it is strong enough. If it was notched, how did you managed to make it strong enough when you re-glued?
Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:10 AM
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Anyone use Gorilla Glue fillets? I like GG
Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:14 AM
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I maybe should have took more photos to show exactly how it worked. Its kinda hard to explain in words. The motor mount plate is/was keyed into the sides of the motor box. I cut off the entire plate complete with the keyed in motor box sides. Due to the fact that the box is tapered when i move the plate assembly back what was the motor box sides now fits inside the motor box 'longerons' giving a generous overlap which i glued with epoxy.

I'll probably add some reinforcing cheek plates out of ply or carbon just to be double sure but I'm pretty confident that it's more than strong enough as it is. Due to the shorter length it is in fact slightly stiffer.
Old Mar 13, 2012, 09:47 AM
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So you basically just went from an "outie" to an "innie"? Neat, because that also ensures that you preserve the thrust angle, right?


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