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Apr 14, 2012, 12:12 PM
3D Wannabe
NJSwede's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
So it's not just me then It will iron back down but probably eventually replacing is the only option. The good thing is that Ultracote/oracover is a perfect match (at least for the red blue and white ).
That's my plan to. The tape was just a field repair to keep it from peeling off even more.

Haters, are you paying attention? I think we found and confirmed a quality issue!
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Apr 14, 2012, 12:41 PM
3D Wannabe
NJSwede's Avatar
BTW, another thing broke for me. Two of the wooden tabs coming out of the fuse that's supposed to hold the cowl screws cracked. I have to admit it's probably...ahemm... builder error, though. Any ideas how to repair and strengthen? I was thinking of gluing a thin sheet of vinyl on both sides to provide strength and better "bite" for the screws.

(No crash, but I think I had weakened the tabs during the build and then they came loose from the air pressure when I was fooling around with high speed passes yesterday...)
Apr 14, 2012, 12:57 PM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
Apr 14, 2012, 01:27 PM
3D Wannabe
NJSwede's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
Yup. I had broken my 1.5mm drill bit, so I figured I'd just drive them in instead of taking a trip to the hardware store. Ah, the stupid things you do when you just want to get it in the air QUICK....
Apr 14, 2012, 06:08 PM
Just flitting about!!
bigroger's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JetPlaneFlyer View Post
A bit of 1/16" plywood on the inside should do the job on the cowl tabs. I've not noticed any weakness with those tabs on my Slick but on any ARF with those tabs it is quite easy to split the wood if you don't pilot drill. CA soaking the wood helps too.
+1 to the CA soak.

I've crashed mine twice as you all know, the second one the motor departed from the cowl mid flight and the cowl tabs held up fine. They, like a lot of my timber is CA soaked, much to our friends amazement after this CA soaking I am still alive, not riddled with cancer and not suffering any long term hallucinogenic issues!!!
Apr 14, 2012, 06:23 PM
Sippin the Koolaid!
losifanatic's Avatar
Got a flight on the slick today. It was blowing 25 to 35mph out (very gusty) Still had fun though. I need to measure the amp draw on that motor(sunnysky 2820 800kv) as it killed the Nano 2650 in less than 5 minutes and swelled them up. Where I flew just as hard on the AJ today with the motrolfly 3615 750kv (and the AJ is heavier and puts out much more power to the prop) and got 5 minutes out of it and the batteries were bearly warm. I think the sunnysky motor isn't up to the task of pushing the slick around effeciently. Got to see what I can do about getting a motor in there thats more up to the task
Apr 14, 2012, 10:12 PM
Currently flyin Crack Yak
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
Apr 14, 2012, 10:27 PM
RC Pilot / Photographer
-= GYRO =-'s Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
I agree. The new and improved, HK "SUCK"
Apr 14, 2012, 10:36 PM
Currently flyin Crack Yak
Quote:
Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
I agree. The new and improved, HK "SUCK"
I knew you would like that one hahaha
Apr 15, 2012, 12:05 AM
Santi
DaaBears's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
Yuck, blue and black is quite the fashion faux pas!
Apr 15, 2012, 12:50 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryanotown22 View Post
I customized my slick today.. now you can tell the difference between 3DHS AJ Slick and the HK slick.. LOL
I thought the title of this thread is "no bashing"
Apr 15, 2012, 03:32 AM
Registered User
Mine`s called "Lick" :P

But does anyone know of long servohorns that fit the TGY-2216MG servo`s ?
I made some, but even they arent long enough for max throw, so i`m thinking of buying new.
Apr 15, 2012, 04:36 AM
Grumpy old git.. Who me?
JetPlaneFlyer's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ola. View Post
But does anyone know of long servohorns that fit the TGY-2216MG servo`s ?
Just make your own. get a piece of carbon or G10 laminate sheet (ebay sell it) and cut your own. Either 1mm or 1.5mm does the job. 1mm can be cut with a strong pair of kitchen scissors which saves some time.
You CA the extension over top of the standard arm and drill a couple of holes through spare holes in the servo arm and pop in a couple of tiny screws.

See photo attached.
Apr 15, 2012, 05:24 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by NJSwede View Post
Yup. I had broken my 1.5mm drill bit, so I figured I'd just drive them in instead of taking a trip to the hardware store. Ah, the stupid things you do when you just want to get it in the air QUICK....
You could also use the sharp tip of an exacto knife as a drill bit by just twisting the knife around, works quite well.
Apr 15, 2012, 06:10 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy View Post
You could also use the sharp tip of an exacto knife as a drill bit by just twisting the knife around, works quite well.
Small flat blad jewellers screwdriver works great too.


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