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Feb 14, 2012, 02:56 PM
Team Hello Kitty
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Discussion

Hints, Tips, and Tricks


This SVSS thread is a place for members to post things that they want to share about building, setup tricks, or how-to help.

Good sharing!

Chris B.
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Feb 14, 2012, 03:03 PM
Team Hello Kitty
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Xplorer 4.0 ST build log


Folks, I just completed posting a build log in my RCG Blog on my Xplorer 4.0. This was my first molded plane build so I learned a ton and got lots of help. If you are thinking about building your first molded plane, you may pick up some good tips as well as things to watch out for.

If you have any questions I'm happy to help.

Good building!
Chris B.
Feb 17, 2012, 07:47 PM
Team Hello Kitty
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Using checklists before flying


After watching an expensive and preventable crash at the field today by one of our best pilots, it got me thinking about how to prevent this kind of thing. The best way I know is to do what full size pilots do: run through a checklist before you start your day and also run through a subset checklist before each and every launch. Never be rushed into skipping this step.

I consider myself one of the most paranoid RC pilots around so I'll contribute a few things I do to a generic pre-flight checklist. I'll be happy to edit this list with things you want to contribute. Maybe someone else can post an electric glider checklist.

Pre-flight Checklist (non-E gliders)

1. TX battery check: enough charge for the day?

2. Assembling your plane:

RX battery charged? (as verified by voltmeter check unless you just charged it)
Wing tape securing main panel to both tips?
Elevator pin centered and passing into both stab holes? (if a full flying stab)
Elevator tape securing the center leading edge gap? (never forget to do this)
Canopy: if you need to use securing tape, is it on?
TX and RX on: Are all surfaces trimmed to neutral correctly?

3. Control surface check

Many just "wiggle" their wing surfaces and figure it's enough if they can hear servos moving. I strongly disagree. You should run through a full surface check after you have assembled your plane, and then run through a slightly abbreviated check each time before you launch. Example:
Pull flaps down to verify they deploy properly.

Quick flip into reflex and thermal modes to verify proper and balanced deflections.

Normal & thermal modes: stick left-right to verify ailerons and flaps (if coupled) movement, verify rudder movement, and especially verify elevator movement.

Launch reflex (if you use it): throw this switch and verify correct balanced throws up.

Launch mode: verify wing TE is down, then stick left-right to verify all surfaces move the right way.

Final check: stick up/down to verify elevator movement.
Now you're ready to launch (I think. Did I leave anything out?)

Chris B.
Feb 18, 2012, 11:38 AM
Good for what ALES you
awilmunder's Avatar
This is my flight procedure. There may be some steps I have missed and there may be some steps that should be done in a different order to maximize safety. Once we have agreed on these, I'd be happy to print these and post them on the side of the winch carriers.

Each time before getting in the winch line line...

1. Power up TX then plane

2. Do a visual control surface check. Best to actually watch the control surfaces move, not just listen for the servo noise. I smoked one aileron servo between flights and listening won't tell you if one isn't working.

3. Verify TX is in launch mode

At the winch...

1. Check that the small metal ring on the retriever line is not stuck on the knot on the main winch line

2. Check that the retriever line is not looped around the guide ring

3. Verify that the retriever has pulled the line from the bike hub so the retriever line releases freely

4. Hook On

5. Check that the retriever is ready

6. Check for a clear flight path and any planes that might enter the path

7. Now put your foot in the pedal boot

8. Announce your launch

9. Do one more visual check, especially the retriever ring and clear flight path.


Landing & Post-Flight

1. Retract flaps just before touching ground to avoid stripping servos

2. Measure landing quickly and exit landing area

3. Record scores after exiting LZ

4. Move plane to safe zone

5. Do another visual check of all control surfaces (if something is wrong, best to fix it between flight)

6. Battery check?

7. Turn off Plane then TX
Feb 24, 2012, 12:48 PM
Team Hello Kitty
SoaringDude's Avatar

Foam-friendly spray paint


Want your Radian or other foam plane to be more visible? The best way I know is to paint the underside of your main wing black or a similar dark color. The problem is that not all paints are foam friendly. i.e. many paints are foam-dissolving .

A very safe paint to use on foam is Krylon H2O Latex. After running around trying to find someone local who carries it, I finally picked up a can at Roseville Ace Hardware for $4.99.

A few tips on this paint: shake the can well and only spray with the can vertical. If you try and spray with the can tilted 45 degrees or more you may not get a fine spray. Also, the paint can go on heavy if you're not careful so use several light misting coats and you should be good to go.

Now you should be ready to take your Radian to 2000 feet .

Chris B.
Feb 26, 2012, 10:54 AM
Team Hello Kitty
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Voltage Regulators and LiFe Battery Packs


I just posted an article in our SVSS forum here about using voltage regulators and voltage reducers to keep LiFe battery pack voltages under manufacturer's limits for many popular servos.

Comments/feedback welcome.

Chris B.
Last edited by SoaringDude; Feb 26, 2012 at 11:20 AM.
Nov 26, 2012, 07:57 AM
NoT iNtElLiGeNt

information regarding electrical engines


hello frd's

i m on my way to develop a rc plane, and i would like to keep two engines (one on either side of the wing). can any one tell me what type of electrical engine is best suits to lift such rc plane of weight around 1.5kg ?
Nov 27, 2012, 12:11 PM
Good for what ALES you
awilmunder's Avatar
I have not worked with two-engine setups, but I can give you some thoughts from a single-engine perspective. The info below is based on my understanding so if someone spots any issues, don’t hesitate to chime in.

First, 1.5Kg is about 52oz. To put that in perspective, my electric Oly II is 76oz. and I also converted a Gentle Lady to electric that is around 40oz. For ALES, both can climb to 200 meters in 25 seconds, so let’s set that as a goal.

To pick a motor, you need to think about power and for electric motors that would be measured in Watts. To determine the Watts, the equation is simple, W(atts) = V(olts) * A(mps). One rule of thumb is that you want a minimum of 50 for a slow climb, but preferably 100 Watts per pound of aircraft weight. Your 1.5kg. plane is 3.3 pounds so a good goal is around 330 Watts.

For the Oly, I fly with an Extreme Flight 2818T/900 104g. 35Amp motor. With a 3S (11.1 volt) battery and the plane is a bit underpowered but climbs to 200 meters in about 25 seconds.

If we look at the Watts for this setup, 11.1v battery * 35Amp motor gives us 388 Watts. My OLY is 4.75lbs so I am flying about 81 Watts per pound, below the 100 Watt target, but acceptable.

The Gentle Lady is flying a Hacker A20-22L motor which supports up to 17Amps and with a 3S battery outputs 189 Watts. At 2.5 Lbs, this would be about 76 Watts per pound, so again, a bit underpowered.

For comparison, a Radian is capable of about 140 Watts per pound.

Based on this, a pair of the Hackers should do the job, but be sure that your weight calculation is including multiple batteries and motors since those will be significant. Propeller choice is also crucial and if you don't already own a watt-meter for measuring how many amps your motor is drawing, it is a worthwhile investment. This can help prevent over-amping either the motor or ESC and also allows you to monitor battery voltage when you apply full throttle.
Dec 28, 2014, 11:51 PM
tpczx6
tpczx6's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SoaringDude
After watching an expensive and preventable crash at the field today by one of our best pilots, it got me thinking about how to prevent this kind of thing. The best way I know is to do what full size pilots do: run through a checklist before you start your day and also run through a subset checklist before each and every launch. Never be rushed into skipping this step.

I consider myself one of the most paranoid RC pilots around so I'll contribute a few things I do to a generic pre-flight checklist. I'll be happy to edit this list with things you want to contribute. Maybe someone else can post an electric glider checklist.

Pre-flight Checklist (non-E gliders)

1. TX battery check: enough charge for the day?

2. Assembling your plane:

RX battery charged? (as verified by voltmeter check unless you just charged it)
Wing tape securing main panel to both tips?
Elevator pin centered and passing into both stab holes? (if a full flying stab)
Elevator tape securing the center leading edge gap? (never forget to do this)
Canopy: if you need to use securing tape, is it on?
TX and RX on: Are all surfaces trimmed to neutral correctly?

3. Control surface check

Many just "wiggle" their wing surfaces and figure it's enough if they can hear servos moving. I strongly disagree. You should run through a full surface check after you have assembled your plane, and then run through a slightly abbreviated check each time before you launch. Example:
Pull flaps down to verify they deploy properly.

Quick flip into reflex and thermal modes to verify proper and balanced deflections.

Normal & thermal modes: stick left-right to verify ailerons and flaps (if coupled) movement, verify rudder movement, and especially verify elevator movement.

Launch reflex (if you use it): throw this switch and verify correct balanced throws up.

Launch mode: verify wing TE is down, then stick left-right to verify all surfaces move the right way.

Final check: stick up/down to verify elevator movement.
Now you're ready to launch (I think. Did I leave anything out?)

Chris B.
Quote:
Originally Posted by awilmunder
This is my flight procedure. There may be some steps I have missed and there may be some steps that should be done in a different order to maximize safety. Once we have agreed on these, I'd be happy to print these and post them on the side of the winch carriers.

Each time before getting in the winch line line...

1. Power up TX then plane

2. Do a visual control surface check. Best to actually watch the control surfaces move, not just listen for the servo noise. I smoked one aileron servo between flights and listening won't tell you if one isn't working.

3. Verify TX is in launch mode

At the winch...

1. Check that the small metal ring on the retriever line is not stuck on the knot on the main winch line

2. Check that the retriever line is not looped around the guide ring

3. Verify that the retriever has pulled the line from the bike hub so the retriever line releases freely

4. Hook On

5. Check that the retriever is ready

6. Check for a clear flight path and any planes that might enter the path

7. Now put your foot in the pedal boot

8. Announce your launch

9. Do one more visual check, especially the retriever ring and clear flight path.


Landing & Post-Flight

1. Retract flaps just before touching ground to avoid stripping servos

2. Measure landing quickly and exit landing area

3. Record scores after exiting LZ

4. Move plane to safe zone

5. Do another visual check of all control surfaces (if something is wrong, best to fix it between flight)

6. Battery check?

7. Turn off Plane then TX
both great check list as being a bit new to contest flying I have seen a few planes go in as people not doing a precheck
I would add that check for the right movement (up is up ) seen a few to many reverse servo
when I on the slope and about to throw someone out I ask them to give me a wiggle and then ask to see up elevator only
May 01, 2016, 12:20 AM
Registered User
Windrider53's Avatar
This one has been dead for a while so I will add one to it. Hot melt has one big advantage for mounting servos, alcohol de-bonds it very nicely. just put a few drops around where the servo is mounted, wait a few minutes and you can gently pry the servo up. If it doesn't want to come off pry it a bit and add a few more drops. It will eventually de-bond from the smooth servo case with no damage.


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