Flyzone UM Dr1 Mods Thread - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Feb 26, 2012, 10:45 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
pattypilot's Avatar
I'm not saying your wrong here, just sharing what's worked for me. So??
Ten pound will be a little to stiff! Four would work! just try and find limp line like Birkley XL line, the XL stands for extra limp.and as for the color, you can paint it! the line that is. I painted mine silver. Your horns should be fine where they are, just move the exit point of the lines forward. this will reduce the tight angle that more than likely is causing a little binding or friction? If you use CA on your plywood horns, if you need to remove them, heat a needle red hot and incert it in the hole it will melt the glue and line and pull out. then restring it!

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Feb 27, 2012, 03:30 AM
Registered User
karfrik's Avatar
Wondering if someone have already addressed the fragile rudder mounting point problem.5 flights and mine already came loose.Any ideas??....
Feb 27, 2012, 08:16 AM
Registered User
I made my own more scale rudder from 1mm Depron foam. I slotted it and the Dr-I fuselage and CA'ed two lightly sanded 3/16" wide cut old floppy disc materal strips into the slots. This material is very light, indestructible and it sorta springs back.

Feb 27, 2012, 12:14 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
pattypilot's Avatar
Floppy's are great! Well for hinge material that is!
Mar 01, 2012, 01:01 AM
BlazingStar's Avatar

Dr1 to D8 update

I had a chance to rework the D8 pull-pull system, but no remaiden yet.
The magnets holding the fuse halves together turned out to be a great idea
Just undid the spars holding the wing to the bottom half of the fuselage and opened the model up.
You can't really see the new lines in the attached video. Here's what's new:
  • Replaced thread with 4# fishing line.
  • Replaced heat shrink channels with Teflon tubes.
  • Replaced 90 rudder bellcrank with a bellcrank from um p51.
  • Moved elevator contrl line exit points forward to avoid sharp angles.
  • Added lots of physical down trim to elevator. - maybe too much, we'll see if I have to open her up again.
  • Control surfaces appear to be centering OK. The rudder centering is a little sluggish but sure is improved.
Magnets to the rescue...

New location and angle for the elevator control line

Replacement bellcrank for the rudder

This was still not smooth enough and was replaced with the bellcrank from a umP51

Maybe you can just see the 4lb fishing line and teflon guide tubes in this picture

Lessons learned:
  • No tight angles
  • smooth lines and slick guide tubes.
  • No wobbly bellcranks on rough cut foam.
  • don't make your new plane pretty until you've worked out the kinks!
Turns out I stink at tieing the control lines. Securing with CA was too permanent (the red-hot needle to melt the CA didn't work well for me on the thread and melted the nylon fishing line too)

I'd be happy to hear what you guys use for securing the lines in these applications. Maybe post a video of how to tie things right!


Reworked pull system on D8 (1 min 10 sec)

Another video of the same thing. maybe easier to see...
MVI 4551 (1 min 16 sec)
Last edited by BlazingStar; Mar 01, 2012 at 02:24 AM.
Mar 01, 2012, 07:53 AM
Registered User

I use green Spiderwire fishing line. It's low stretch and it looks sorta like cable great for WWI rigging too.

I run it through a 1/16 piece of aluminum tube, pull tight and with a needle nose pliers crush he tube I then put a dab of epoxy or CA with kicker at the tube end and cut off the excess Spiderwire with a razor. This stuff has to be cut with a razor blade on a hard surface.

For flying wires/rigging lately I've just been CA'ing it with a kicker and paint over that point to look like a turn buckle.

Mar 01, 2012, 10:25 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
pattypilot's Avatar
Blaze, that looks much better! and should work fine. Like Pete says fire wire or spider wire with 1/16 alum tube crimped and a drop of ca. But my last project just used mono line and didn't tie or loop it at all, just ca and kicked it. I will try and get a quick video of mine.

Mar 02, 2012, 02:39 PM
BlazingStar's Avatar

D8 maiden

Here's a short video showing the wonderful flying characteristics of my D8 creation:

Fokker D8 maiden (0 min 9 sec)

great snap roll to invertged flight right at take off a better pilot would have continued the take off inverted...

Seriously though, this was the fourth attempt.
Notice the left to right oscillation. What causes that?
I had the rudder throws reduced to very small movements with D/R setup.
On one occation when it did stay up for a few seconds (no video) that left to right severe bank continued.
My highly critical eye indicates that something may be wrong

Ideas welcome!
Mar 02, 2012, 03:12 PM
Registered User
Angelo's Avatar
A couple of thoughts -

My Triplane recently flipped over on its back and stabilized there, my CG was too far back. How's your CG?

I know this isn't likely, but is it possible you have the rudder reversed?

Found this, a much bigger D8 -

Fokker D-VIII (5 min 16 sec)
Mar 02, 2012, 03:49 PM
No dear, That isn't New!
pattypilot's Avatar
Blaze, did you give the motor some down and right thrust? Do you have an area that you could do a quick glide test? No power glide! maybe center the controls, and a very gentile toss, over tall grass or something soft. See what it does then.
Mar 02, 2012, 03:55 PM
Registered User
As Jim noted check those suggestions. Also test toss it onto a soft bed or high grass how does it fly/glide? If it does ok then it's a power issue to resolve.

Last edited by mtflyr; Mar 02, 2012 at 11:12 PM.
Mar 02, 2012, 04:07 PM

That kind of roll on takeoff I've seen in my planes when there's either:
1. CG too far back, OR
2. Not enough down elevator, OR
3. Not enough down thrust and right thrust.

With that particular plane, the DVIII, I would suspect #1 as more likely than the others.

As a precaution on my maiden flights I always start off with exaggerated down elevator. If that doesn't get me off the tarmac, then next I ooze in a little less down el and try again. I iterate that till I get just a slight ROG. Then I give it some more up elevator, to get it up to altitude. That sequence has saved me from some bad 'repair bills." .

Mar 05, 2012, 03:39 PM
Registered User
Angelo's Avatar

CG issues

A re-post of comments I made on the other DR I thread;

One thing I want to mention to anyone repainting, watch your CG! This plane is so light, just another coat of paint can radically change your balance. Even tho I stripped the original layer of paint off, I had a net gain on the tail section. Now, even tho I've cut a slot in the firewall, and have a 160 ma battery right up to the cylinder heads, it's still tail heavy. I'm probably gonna have to glue small bits of lead behind the cowling until she flies right. I HATE adding weight, especially with a plane so small.
Mar 06, 2012, 08:12 AM
Registered User

I put a PZ P-51 motor/gearbox in mine and also cut out the battery box to fit a HP 180 0r 240 and she flys great! No CG issues I can also fly it with a std 160 cell.
The minor mods I did to the fake motor also added a tad of weight to the front so that helped too.

Try using the HP 18- or 240 before adding any weight....

The PZ motor also makes it pretty quiet aswell.

Mar 06, 2012, 11:27 AM
Registered User
Angelo's Avatar
Thanks for the tips, Pete. I might go for the P-51 gearbox and larger batteries later, but I got a whole bunch of 120 ma batteries I'm already using. Now I think I'll use Velcro for the weights, easily removable if I want to go with the P-51/larger batteries later.

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