Phaeton 90 Electric Build - Page 6 - RC Groups
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Apr 22, 2012, 08:22 AM
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Phaeton Electric

I built a Phaeton a few years ago - originally it was powered by a Thunder Tiger 91 FS, but I converted it to electric. It was a big improvement. My set up is: a Monster Power 110, Castle 100 A ESC, 2 4S 5000 mah Lipos with a 15X6 prop. It draws 1190 watts, 40 amps. With the glow engine, I had almost a lb of extra weight mounted to the firewall, with the electric conversion, the 2 lipos mounted up front eliminated the need for the counter weight. This model builds tail heavy, and I tried to keep as much weight off the tail as I could during the build. It's a great easy flyer, and floats right in for landings. I have some pix and a video if you're interested
Last edited by pbrguy; Apr 25, 2012 at 06:55 PM.
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Apr 26, 2012, 05:09 PM
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The latest information: Added the lower center section planking, and did the final fitting of the servo mounts. Added the fiberglass at the center and filled it in with WBP and filler, needs to be sanded yet. Did some more sanding on the wingtips, still needs the final tweaking though. I had my right eye cataract surgery and I guess that it was not a normal procedure took an hour and half when normal is about 20 minutes. Nothing serious just that things did not proceed right. However my right eye is not very useful at the moment and I have lost my near vision so I will not be able to do close up things until I get fitted for glasses. This bugs me quite a bit as I like to read when I cant do other things, or if I am waiting for glue to dry. But I will have to live with it. I will not be posting for awhile it seems as I will be unable to proceed until the right eye heals and I have glasses fitted so I can see to work up close. Just letting everyone know that I am not leaving the thread and hope that I will be able to continue shortly, but I am afraid that it may be a couple of weeks hence.
Apr 26, 2012, 05:15 PM
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Hey Pbrguy thanks for the post and I would like to see your Phaeton and film when you get a chance to post them. Always like to look at other peoples pride and joy. Nice to hear that the conversion went well. So far mine seems to be on the nose heavy side though! That may change as the build progresses.
Apr 26, 2012, 08:55 PM
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Take it easy for a while and let your eyes heal. Hope to hear from you again when you finally get back in the shop.
Apr 27, 2012, 09:50 AM
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Here's the video link - ignore the obnoxious sound track
Phaeton 90 Electric Power. (2 min 49 sec)
Apr 27, 2012, 09:54 AM
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Phaeton Pix

Here's the pictures
Apr 27, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Nice flying Pbrguy, good looking build also. It appears that you added fairings to the N struts, but not to the wing struts or landing gear any reason for this? Really good looking plane, what did you cover it with?
Apr 27, 2012, 10:08 AM
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I didn't like the wire N struts, so I made them from spruce. I covered it with Ultracote, although it would have looked better with a fabric type covering like Coverite. Make sure and add a little negative incidence to the top wing - I flew mine first with 0-0 incidence, and it tended to climb, so I added some plywood shims to the rear N strut top mount (you can see them in the close up) and it flew much better.
May 15, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Well I am back, it is strange to be able to see distance without glasses, especially when I had to wear glasses my entire life. But this is at a loss of near vision! So I couldn't do very much close up work. The Doctor told me to get a cheap pair or +2.5 reading glasses for the time being so I can now start where I left off. Wouldn't have a prescription for reading glasses for about another 5 weeks, 8 weeks after surgery.
But I did do some things with the cheap reading glasses, sanded down the center section. The screws came in so I mounted the servos like you said Jolly Roger with the hex drive screws. And mounted the lower wing on the fuselage. The saddle for the wing may need some more adjustment as I have not checked the incidence on it yet. After that is correct I will use the trick of plastic wrap and sealer to get a nice snug fit for the wing saddle. I also have set up the wing jig for the upper wing and the last rib is about 1/8" further out then the plans show but both halves measure the same 1/8" longer so I won't fiddle with it. I got the ribs together and I think I will take an 1/16' inch off the top and bottom so I can use cap strips. I noticed that on the lower wing some of the ribs have been sanded and have a noticeable dip about half way to the trailing edge I will have to add some filler strips and sand to match to the correct curve. If you look closely at the first picture the 5th rib from the fuselage you may notice what I am talking about. I wish I had thought to use caps strips on the lower wing also. Have not fully decided on the method of mounting the ailerons yet.
May 16, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Good to hear everything is going ok in the eye department.
Plans always seem to stretch if they've been around for a while. Even new ones will be a trifle out as mine were for my BUSA Eindecker .40, but I just put the wings together according to how the parts were cut and fit and they came out fine.
I mount my ailerons inside the wing with just the output arm exposed. To me, it looks neater and less like a model plane.
Looking good so far.
May 18, 2012, 07:22 AM
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Rats more delays! Got the wing ribs fixed looks better now but I started to set up the ailerons and discovered that they are warped badly! When I set them against the wings I thought that I had really goofed when I built the wings. I set the ailerons against a straight edge and one has a bow of about 3/8" from one end to the other the other has a little more then 1/8" bow in the middle. I checked with the local Hobby Shop and they seem to indicate that they have some in stock, but I am leery because of the dimensions stated, doesn't sound correct. The other possibility is to cut my own which may be what I will have to do, if not swallow the bullet and order them! Only three places carry the size needed one requires a $25 dollar minimum order with $15 shipping and handling, another I would have to buy 10 of them @ $25 with $10 shipping and handling, and the third which I mentioned $2.50 each with $10 shipping and handling.
May 18, 2012, 07:28 AM
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And Jolly Roger, that is what I finally decided to do as far as mounting the servos, only the arms show below the wings. Added hardwood strips to the sides of the ribs to provide for #2 screws to anchor the hatch where the servo is mounted. Also added some balsa strips on the ribs to allow an attachment point for the covering.
May 20, 2012, 10:17 AM
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I'm not sure, but depending on how old the kit is you may be able to wrangle a free set from the guys at BUSA. I had the same problem with my Eindecker .40 and they sent me a new pair.
I would give them a call and see what their response is.
Ya never know, maybe they'll say nay and maybe they'll send out a new pair F.O.C.
May 20, 2012, 12:06 PM
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I think the kit came over on the Mayflower! I did manage to find some reasonable ailerons from Action Hobbies in Wichita Falls, TX. I have had good dealings with them in the past and almost forgot to check with them. $1.30 each plus actual postage.
After doing some house maintenance (the joys of owning a house) I did manage to get some things done for the upper wing. Unfortunately I didn't get any pictures but I will outline the process.
1. Got a piece of 3/4 inch plywood 8' long and about 18-20" wide something I had in the garage.
2. Laid it on a couple of sawhorses.
3. Used blue painters tape to secure the upper wing plans to the plywood (reverse rolled the plans the night before made them easier to handle)
4. Measured down 1/2" from the spar at the last rib on both ends and laid a straight edge at the marks.
5. Measured down 2" at the center rib to see where the second hole for the jig would be and decided that I could back further on the outer ribs, so I measured down 1" and with the straight edge drew a line from wing tip to wing tip.
6. Verified the 2" distance at the center rib again, it was fine.
7. Laid the ribs on the plans with the bottom of the rib aligned to the position on the drawing and the notch for the spar aligned and taped each one down.
8. laid the straight edge lined up with the earlier line and marked each rib with a line and position.
9. The center rib is doubled so I had to remove the tape and position the second rib to mark it.
All the ribs are marked for the position of the first hole for the wing jig and the hole making jig will position the second hole.
10. Sanded the ribs so they match.
11. Cut the taper needed for the upper spar.
12. Removed 1/16" from the trailing edge, the ends of the ribs are 3/16" and the trailing edge was 1/4", didn't want to sand that much away and probably damage the ribs in the process.
Need to do:
Bore the holes in the ribs for the wing jig rods.
Determine the proper angle to cut the spars and leading edge to match in the middle.
Sorry for not taking pictures, got busy doing the work and forgot about the camera!
Jun 06, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Just seeing what's goin on still here

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