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May 03, 2012, 03:40 PM
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Thanks a million, Jim. That thread looks good. I don't intend to use much paint (weight,) but I like the way the color looks on your painted planes.

Thanks again,
Dave
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May 03, 2012, 05:10 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ombudsman
Thanks a million, Jim. That thread looks good. I don't intend to use much paint (weight,) but I like the way the color looks on your painted planes.

Thanks again,
Dave
and if you have an air compressor you can get started airbrushing cheap with the dual action airbrush for $15 from Harbor Freight. Gives you a way to see if you want to invest more later
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 07, 2012, 07:20 AM
Registered User

Plane flies great - but I have a problem


My Yak maiden went very well indeed. She flew beautifully, with no trim needed. The problem I have, though, is that my aileron hinges are stiff. I had never used a Welders hinge before and apparently did a poor job of it. My hinges are stiff to the point that the wing actually warps when the ailerons are deflected.

I'm using futaba 3114 servos, a CC T-bird 9 esc and a HK 24g, 1500KV motor spinning an APC 8X3/8 prop. Before flying very long, the esc apparently overheats and cuts off the motor. I believe this to be because of the stiff aileron hinges. If I give the esc a few minutes to cool off, she flies again just fine (for awhile.)

Can I cut the aileron hinges and use Welders again to try to get a freer hinge?

Thanks,
Dave
Last edited by ombudsman; May 07, 2012 at 07:33 AM.
May 07, 2012, 07:57 AM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ombudsman
My Yak maiden went very well indeed. She flew beautifully, with no trim needed. The problem I have, though, is that my aileron hinges are stiff. I had never used a Welders hinge before and apparently did a poor job of it. My hinges are stiff to the point that the wing actually warps when the ailerons are deflected.

I'm using futaba 3114 servos, a CC T-bird 9 esc and a HK 24g, 1500KV motor spinning an APC 8X3/8 prop. Before flying very long, the esc apparently overheats and cuts off the motor. I believe this to be because of the stiff aileron hinges. If I give the esc a few minutes to cool off, she flies again just fine (for awhile.)

Can I cut the aileron hinges and use Welders again to try to get a freer hinge?

Thanks,
Dave
just cut slots to disconnect portions of the hinge line so you leave small connected strips like a wing with CA style hinges and you will be fine. Leave the two ends connected and start freeing sections along the line. I find that if you disconnect about 50% it frees it up significantly. I have also bent the hingeline back and sanded the inside of the bevel. it really is a matter of less is more and just hinging the points of the bevel. if you cut too much free you can always reglue. cut and test, cut and test, until you get the hinge movement free

Jim
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 07, 2012, 01:38 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman
just cut slots to disconnect portions of the hinge line so you leave small connected strips like a wing with CA style hinges and you will be fine. Leave the two ends connected and start freeing sections along the line. I find that if you disconnect about 50% it frees it up significantly. I have also bent the hingeline back and sanded the inside of the bevel. it really is a matter of less is more and just hinging the points of the bevel. if you cut too much free you can always reglue. cut and test, cut and test, until you get the hinge movement free

Jim
Thanks, Jim. I did as you suggested and the hinges do seem noticeably freer. Only time will tell if this was the problem with the esc. I don't think the 24g 1500KV motor is over-propped on 3S with an APC 8X3.8; HK's specs (and reviews) indicate that this prop should be appropriate. Anyway, I'll work it out sooner or later.

I intend to post my favorable impressions of RA Cores, the Yak kit and the plane's excellent flying characteristics, but I want to get some more stick-time to explore its abilities and possibilities. More later...

Thanks, Jim for all of your help. It is greatly appreciated.

Dave
May 07, 2012, 01:43 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ombudsman
Thanks, Jim. I did as you suggested and the hinges do seem noticeably freer. Only time will tell if this was the problem with the esc. I don't think the 24g 1500KV motor is over-propped on 3S with an APC 8X3.8; HK's specs (and reviews) indicate that this prop should be appropriate. Anyway, I'll work it out sooner or later.

I intend to post my favorable impressions of RA Cores, the Yak kit and the plane's excellent flying characteristics, but I want to get some more stick-time to explore its abilities and possibilities. More later...

Thanks, Jim for all of your help. It is greatly appreciated.

Dave
Always appreciate a good word but I'm just as interested in hearing any tweaks and suggestions as well. Look forward to the next report
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 08, 2012, 05:05 AM
RIP Azarr - "Old age is not for sissies"
Azarr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ombudsman
My Yak maiden went very well indeed. She flew beautifully, with no trim needed. The problem I have, though, is that my aileron hinges are stiff. I had never used a Welders hinge before and apparently did a poor job of it. My hinges are stiff to the point that the wing actually warps when the ailerons are deflected.

Thanks,
Dave
FWIW, I never use the method shown in the video floating around where you put both surfaces on a table and use a card to scrape Welders through the joint. What I found early on is that doing that forces Welders through the joint and the excess build up on the bottom will cause stiff hinges.

What I do now, is use Welders as it's designed. I apply it to the very edge of the beveled surface only, wipe it down the edge to remove any access, put the two surfaces together, pull them apart, wait ~ 10 mins and push them back together. For good measure I use a small strip of tape at each end and go fly.

As coreman suggested, cutting the hinge line will free everything up.

Azarr
May 08, 2012, 05:14 AM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azarr
FWIW, I never use the method shown in the video floating around where you put both surfaces on a table and use a card to scrape Welders through the joint. What I found early on is that doing that forces Welders through the joint and the excess build up on the bottom will cause stiff hinges.

What I do now, is use Welders as it's designed. I apply it to the very edge of the beveled surface only, wipe it down the edge to remove any access, put the two surfaces together, pull them apart, wait ~ 10 mins and push them back together. For good measure I use a small strip of tape at each end and go fly.

As coreman suggested, cutting the hinge line will free everything up.

Azarr
personally what I've been doing is holding the two surfaces together so the bevels make a point and wiping the glue on there and then separating. 5-10 minutes later I push them together on a table, hinge up so they align well the whole length. I've used tape and I've also sewn spiderwire over the ends. But mostly I just touch up the glue if I notice a separation starting. I would rather use too little and touch it up after

How's the hand doing Azarr?
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 08, 2012, 05:20 AM
RIP Azarr - "Old age is not for sissies"
Azarr's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman

How's the hand doing Azarr?
Unfortunately not well cast is off the wrist but I have very limited use of the hand. Back to the bone doc tomorrow.

As I've said, it gives me a much better appreciation for our troops (or anyone for that matter) that lose the use of a limb.

Luckily I can still fly, but when small corrections are necessary, I have lost what little fineness I had in the first place. Sorry, OT I know.

Azarr
May 08, 2012, 05:37 AM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Azarr
Unfortunately not well cast is off the wrist but I have very limited use of the hand. Back to the bone doc tomorrow.

As I've said, it gives me a much better appreciation for our troops (or anyone for that matter) that lose the use of a limb.

Luckily I can still fly, but when small corrections are necessary, I have lost what little fineness I had in the first place. Sorry, OT I know.

Azarr
My topic and I asked

Sorry to hear it's progressing slow. Hope it's back in good shape for NEAT.

Had a Doc friend that used to say he never understood why they were referred to as "patient"

Jim
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 08, 2012, 05:57 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
The next Flat Foamie in the series will be a Spitfire. Here are some videos I took of the prototype recently.

Spitfire outdoors.m4v (4 min 6 sec)

Outdoors above and indoors below

Spitfire.m4v (1 min 14 sec)
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 09, 2012, 02:39 PM
ETFD2 Creator
etheli's Avatar
The Spitfire shape is very cool in the air. A 28" version for streamer combat would be an interesting alternative to the Yak design.

--ET
May 09, 2012, 03:40 PM
Kit Manufacturer
coreman's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by etheli
The Spitfire shape is very cool in the air. A 28" version for streamer combat would be an interesting alternative to the Yak design.

--ET
just curious, why the hang up on 28"?
Latest blog entry: BluFO review by Jim T Graham
May 09, 2012, 04:52 PM
ETFD2 Creator
etheli's Avatar
For streamer combat the 28" turns and loops faster than the 32", has more speed, and is a little more robust in crashes. It comes at the cost of being a bit heavier in the air.

--ET
May 09, 2012, 04:59 PM
pondside
pondside's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by coreman
The next Flat Foamie in the series will be a Spitfire. Here are some videos I took of the prototype recently.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hl8gdyDjgNA
Outdoors above and indoors below

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2WA4mg4LwQo
Jim,
Looks like a home run on the spitfire, can't wait to see some paint jobs from WWII, great job!!!

Bob


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