Originally Posted by VaBarefootBoy

On the topic of those things with wings that fly via radio, I have a coupon for a Castlelink and it gives two choices. I don't have it in front of me but I believe one is usb and the other is a field type. Being that I am an Apple guy primarily, could y'all that know about both give me advice as to which to purchase. (I do have a PC still operating something prior to Win7,8,9,etc available)

Thanks

the usb link won't work with a mac unless maybe you run Windows on it. check the Castle software and see if it's compatible with whichever windows version you still have.

the field programmer works but is fairly limited. you can set the LVC voltage, timing, brake, but not much else if I recall.

Someone on another thread said that the field type works as a usb also.

I have a PC I could us and I have a MacBook with dual boot capability. If the USB version is much better than I should probably get that version.

I have a Castle Phoenix Edge Lite 50A that came to me used but NIB that I will be putting into an used EF 48" YAK powered by the Torque 2814T/820.

Has anybody had any experience with this setup or concerns or things I might need to do to setup the Castle for that application?

Any electricians in the house willing to help me trouble shoot a home electrical problem?

several...what is it?

My wife was using a vacuum and the power turned off. I located the breaker and its one of those split 15/15 breakers, and there are no GFCI in the circuit. I have a MM and one of those plugs you plug into outlets to see if it's wired correctly. The plug tester indicated the ground and hot was reversed. I thought, how is this possible, I haven't wired anything into it in a while and you have to be an idiot to do that. I looked on line and it's a common error code that really means I have a lose common wire somewhere. The breaker was good, but I replaced it anyways. This circuit has one outlet in the garage (only load on it is my sprinkler timer) and exterior florescent light on the side garage door, two florescent garage ceiling lights, two outlets in the main door entry, door bell, two porch florescent lights and three LED lights on the main garage doors. I replaced every outlet and switch on the circuit, checked the ground wires, and common wires twisted together. I used outlets and switched you have to screw down, I don't like the ones you just stick in the hole. Checked the wiring on the LED lights on the garage doors, the only thing I didn't look at was the wiring of the florescent garage ceiling lights and porch lights. with the MM I get 7 to 11 v and on the breaker box I get 121, but it was dark and I couldn't chase the common wire down so I just picked any common wire on the rail. The home is 9 yrs old and I've lived in it 3 yrs.

7 to 11V from hot to what? Hot to ground or hot to neutral? And on a house that new there arent (or shouldnt be) any commons. Hot only. Neutral only. Ground only. And the neutral and grounds should only be bonded at the service.

and what points are showing 121V in the panel? The buss bar or the terminal(hot) screw on the breaker?

Sorry I meant neutral. hot to neutral. On the screw

Yeah you have a loose neutral. Basicly you have to trace the circuit back and find where it has failed

If no voltage from hot to neutral but voltage from hot to ground then you have an open neutral. And tracing that could suck

and I cant drive to CA to help you

Ok. We can go fly too







I even took down the closet shelf and clothes hanger I installed to troubleshot with no luck of finding easy fix of severed neutral:





I'm going to have a friend come over this Sunday and see what we can come up with.

Originally Posted by jk6672

I even took down the closet shelf and clothes hanger I installed to troubleshot with no luck of finding easy fix of severed neutral:
I'm going to have a friend come over this Sunday and see what we can come up with.

Probably need to look at wiring to/near whatever other outlet (or light? People do weird things) is powered by same breaker between this outlet and the box.
Somewhat likely you'll find the neutral loose/burned up at a screw, or some pigtail or back-stabbed outlet has failed.
Of course it "could" be randomly elsewhere, but those are some common culprits.

Be safe, and 'call the man' if you or friend aren't confident/competent in your poking-around-without-dying-or-burning-the-place-down abilities

If no other plugs are affected on that circuit, it possibly is just in that outlet. Or IS that outlet. urn power OFF at breaker and remove the plug from the wall and check the plug connections and marretts on the pigtails. That is simple to do. Make sure power is off first tho. If it isn't there, then check the other plugs on that circuit. It won't be in the wiring in the wall, but at connections in plugs or neutral in panel(highly unlikely tho) Sometimes a plug can fail inside it too.

Is there voltage between ground and neutral?

Originally Posted by Banditpowdercoat

If no other plugs are affected on that circuit, it possibly is just in that outlet. Or IS that outlet. urn power OFF at breaker and remove the plug from the wall and check the plug connections and marretts on the pigtails. That is simple to do. Make sure power is off first tho. If it isn't there, then check the other plugs on that circuit. It won't be in the wiring in the wall, but at connections in plugs or neutral in panel(highly unlikely tho) Sometimes a plug can fail inside it too.

Ahh. I had to read back.
I'm not sure why I thought he had already replaced that one... but yeah, +1 the above, about starting by safely checking there.

I almost +1 all of the rest except the, "it won't be the wiring in the wall," but only because I've learned over time to never underestimate the power of people.
I mean, yeah, you're probably right. 99% of the time you would be. But I've seen some strange ones.

ie... I've seen a 3" deck screw used to hold up a 6oz picture before.
In that case the breaker tripped 4-5 times, before the neutral burned through, and when he called me, the test looked like this, until everything else was unplugged. Then it showed 'open neutral' instead.
(That was Fun to find, and not too hard, with a tone generator/tracer setup. May have torn up quite a bit of wall, otherwise. lol)