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Feb 16, 2012, 09:19 AM
Registered User
chris1379's Avatar
Thanks, I'm really enjoying the videos. What type of glue gun are you using? I always seem to have trouble with the glue cooling before I get a long seam joined so I've been using epoxy. Are you leaving the paper on inside the fuselages or do you remove it?

I also like your technique of sealing the edges with hot glue. I've been covering my parts after they are cut and cutting the tape off even with the edges. Then I use a monokote iron to fix the edges. I covered the bottom of an under-cambered wing after it was rolled because the tape would wrinkle if it was applied first. How do you cover an under-cambered wing?

Chris
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Feb 16, 2012, 06:20 PM
Registered User
Has anyone come up with a nose cone technique using foamboard?? Maybe someone could post some pics...
Feb 16, 2012, 07:04 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
Cone shaped nosecone?
Feb 16, 2012, 08:55 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppy
Cone shaped nosecone?
Cone shape will work..
Feb 16, 2012, 11:18 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
No problem.
Pull paper off of foam.
Make a paper template for the cone you wish to make. It will be a circle with a triangular wedge cut out of it. When you get the right size, transfer it to the foam and cut the foam to shape.
Using a broom stick, gently roll the foam over and finally around the the stick until the foam is pliable and can be put into a cone shape. Then glue the edges together.. Practice makes perfect. You might want to roll it in two directions for a cone.
Feb 16, 2012, 11:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppy
No problem.
Pull paper off of foam.
Make a paper template for the cone you wish to make. It will be a circle with a triangular wedge cut out of it. When you get the right size, transfer it to the foam and cut the foam to shape.
Using a broom stick, gently roll the foam over and finally around the the stick until the foam is pliable and can be put into a cone shape. Then glue the edges together.. Practice makes perfect. You might want to roll it in two directions for a cone.
Thanks... I'll give it a try..
Feb 17, 2012, 02:55 AM
"Pinoy Ako!"
bong2003ny's Avatar
This one is a great find! Thanks so much ExperimentalAir! c",)
Feb 18, 2012, 04:07 PM
Ed @ Experimental Airlines
ExperimentalAir's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris1379
Thanks, I'm really enjoying the videos. What type of glue gun are you using? I always seem to have trouble with the glue cooling before I get a long seam joined so I've been using epoxy. Are you leaving the paper on inside the fuselages or do you remove it?

I also like your technique of sealing the edges with hot glue. I've been covering my parts after they are cut and cutting the tape off even with the edges. Then I use a monokote iron to fix the edges. I covered the bottom of an under-cambered wing after it was rolled because the tape would wrinkle if it was applied first. How do you cover an under-cambered wing?

Chris
I use low temp glue most of the time but high temp for long seams, as you allude to. I try to make the fuselage tubes half then half as far as the glue goes, so it's a two-step process. Epoxy is fine but it's slow, messy, and expensive. That's just my preference. I have not tried to cover undercambered wings. My experience is that packing tape adheres poorly to negative contours and depressions. Sounds like your idea is as good as any - cover after curving.
Feb 19, 2012, 03:32 AM
rcflyer
Can the fuse tubes be done using depron?
Thanks
Jim
Feb 19, 2012, 10:25 AM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
Depron is MUCH stiffer than $Tree foam and does not form anywhere as easily. I've tried many ways to form curved surfaces with Depron and none have worked really well.
Feb 20, 2012, 04:11 PM
Ed @ Experimental Airlines
ExperimentalAir's Avatar
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcjim11
Can the fuse tubes be done using depron?
Thanks
Jim
The fuselage tubes can be made with Depron, with a little more difficulty. You must tape the outside radius of the bends, and I recommend taping the entire outer surface, overlapping generously, and pressing down hard with a credit card.

Make your marks for the fold intervals and then emboss the inside of the folds by scribing a small but blunt instrument into the Depron along a straightedge, something like a ballpoint pen with the ball retracted. Just enough to squish down the substance of the Depron about 40%.

Then make the folds under a heavy piece of wood or something like that. Be careful with the "overbending" to try to establish 90-degree bends as this may snap the Depron. It will be under somewhat more tension during the final gluing step, compared to Dollar Tree foamboard, and you'll likely need some jigs or helpers to keep the tube together while you apply the glue.

If successful you do get a nice, crisp 90-degree bend. The compressibility of Depron is not as good so the substance in the bend itself will kind of fatigue and come apart if subjected to a lot of chronic movement, but the tape should hold it together if properly applied.

If Depron is what you can get, give it a try. For us in the US it's tough to beat $1 per sheet of Dollar Tree foamboard.

Let us know if you have success so we can share with other Depron users.
Feb 20, 2012, 04:47 PM
Registered User

Tapered wing & washout


Ed or anyone,

Has someone come up with a technique with foamboard for adding in washout in the wing?.. I want to do a 60" (two 30" wing sections) tapered wing with washout... root chord at 10" and a tip chord of 7"

Also looking to do a twin motor setup.. I'm tossing around ideas in my head for nacelles.. Has some one done this yet?? Or any other another technique for attaching twin motors to a wing??.

Thanks

Michael
Feb 20, 2012, 06:41 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
You can do most anything you want to some degree with the ends of the wing.
Do not glue the outer 20% (or whatever) of the wings edges together, not the back or the front edge.
Do not run the spar into that 20% area.
You can now bend the wing tip up - down - more AOA, less AOA, etc just by sliding the bottom and top 1/2s of the wings till you get the angle/position you want and then glue it in that postion.
Make a test wing and try it out.

Picture one is Wing spar with middle left out at the tip.
Picture two is wing with tip in position I wanted it.
Last edited by hoppy; Feb 20, 2012 at 06:55 PM.
Feb 20, 2012, 06:46 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppy
You can do most anything you want with the ends of the wing.
Do not glue the outer 20% (or whatever) of the wings edges together, not the back or the front edge.
Do not run the spar into that 20% area.
You can now bend the wing tip up - down - more AOA, less AOA, etc just by sliding the bottom and top 1/2s of the wings till you get the angle/position you want and then glue it in that postion.
Make a test wing and try it out.
Thanks Hoppy..
I will try a test wing... Any ideas about installing a motors in the wing??
Feb 20, 2012, 07:01 PM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
I haven't done it but If I was going to put a motor in the wing I would glue in a piece of plywood shaped like the WWII USAF warplane insignia. The narrow "arms" would be the same thickness as the spar and the middle circular part would be sized to hold the motor. This would be glued to the spar.

Ed probably has some much better ideas.


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