I don't know the answer but there is a good foam board building FB group with many UK members so may be a good place to look. Just search FB for "Jetworks Community" or got to https://jetworks.online/ and scroll to the bottom for a FB link.

You can remove the paper on the foam board by spraying a water with some dish soap and let it sit for about 2min. it will peel right of the board easily. Thats what i have been doing when using the foam board.

Originally Posted by Venturtronics

You can remove the paper on the foam board by spraying a water with some dish soap and let it sit for about 2min. it will peel right of the board easily. Thats what i have been doing when using the foam board.

I've always just used plain tap water in a spray bottle and it works just fine. You do have to let it sit for the paper to release cleanly.

Originally Posted by Venturtronics

You can remove the paper on the foam board by spraying a water with some dish soap and let it sit for about 2min. it will peel right of the board easily. Thats what i have been doing when using the foam board.

I think you'll find isopropyl or denatured alcohol works like magic to remove the paper from Adams foam board from Dollar Tree. Spray it on, wait less than a minute, peel it off.

I believe paperless is the way to go when using DTFB. For more strength, you can add paper after you've built the pane with bare foam. See this thread for how to do it.

Originally Posted by slam555

no
if you want a stiffer aileron goto elmers foam I use it when I want a stiffer stronger part, the weight isn't that different,
I lamaneted pieces of dtf together it worked well, but I've found that thge dtf will hold a wing curve well enough without help, so it was addes weight and stiffness, I'm currentle looking into a small ugly stick to have some fun with on the curved foam process

Try ironing the airfoil with the paper on to get it stiffer then peel of paper and see the results. It makes it much stiffer and it's not that hard to do.

So when I run out of Depron, I have to use foam board, peel the paper off, ......

then add my own paper.

Something doesn't quite add up..

Ray.

Originally Posted by eflightray

So when I run out of Depron, I have to use foam board, peel the paper off, ......
then add my own paper.
Something doesn't quite add up..

Ray, the trouble is that the paper on Adams foam board comes off too easily - just from a few humid days, or an encounter with damp grass, for instance. Adam's board has no glue bonding the paper on - it's just heat-set in place, which is why it comes off so easily.

The stock paper on the Adam's board is also thicker and heavier than newspaper.

Finally, removing the paper lets you sand and shape the foam in ways you can't do with the paper still attached.

So it actually DOES make perfect sense to remove the weakly-bonded factory paper, and then, if you actually want paper to remain on the model, to re-apply your own paper using actual glue.

It may be worth experimenting with applying some sort of watered-down glue to stock Adam's board to see if it will soak through the stock paper covering and actually bond it to the foam underneath. If that works, it wouldn't be necessary to remove and re-paper the foam unless you wanted to shape the foam or use lighter paper.


-Flieslikeabeagle

Removing the paper and using the Duck brand colored package sealing tape became my ritual for stiffening up a wing and adding color for visibility.

I would spray a light coating of 3M 77 or Duro General Purpose aerosol adhesive on the foam and then apply the tape. The bond between the tape and foam was such that you had to destroy the surface to get the tape off.

The 3M 77 was like $12 a can and the Duro only $3-4 a can or so I made the most use out of the cheaper stuff. And it worked just as well as the expensive stuff.

When you were building wings with multiple layers of foam you could add spars and conceal them inside the wing. For that I usually used Gorilla Glue and spritzed with water to get the foaming action. Weight it down and let the foam fill and bond the spar to two or more layers as it set up and the strength was very good.

The image shows two dowels in place, at leading edge and in front of strip that forms KFm3 step. They are not full width because I intended to make this wing have dihedral on the tips. At this point I spritz with water, apply Gorilla Glue with an acid brush, close the wing, add a plank and some weight to weight it all down, and let it set overnight.

Jack

Brush on oil based polyurethane to Adams with the paper on for a permanent bond.

I noticed the AVRO VULCAN, designed by Larry Kruse in an AMA email several months ago. I decided to download the plans and build one. My first foam board model after 70+ years of building and flying. I decided to color it Arctic Camouflage ( black felt tip). It flew right off the board after a buddy hand launched it for me. After many flights on the Vulcan I decided to sketch and build my own delta along similar lines. Both models were built with Dollar Tree foam board. Instead of the flat surfaces as on the Vulcan, I used a KFm2 airfoil at 40% tapered cord. I also decided to install a tricycle landing gear to get away from hand launching. Both models are powered by a SUPPO 2217/6 brushless motor at 1500Kv, an APC 7 x 6 e-prop and a 3 x 1300 LiPo battery.

My delta is colored in RED strips on the upper surfaces only (red felt tip). I flew the new bird today and it was noticeable nicer in the air than the Vulcan. Perhaps the KF airfoil made the difference. After flying the delta a few flights today, I cut off the single vertical fin and installed two fins canted outboard at 10 degrees. This change is my preference for visual appeal. I haven't flown the twin fin version yet. The total area of the two fins is approximately the same as the single fin. The tricycle land gear combined with the delta wing certainly makes nice nose-high main gear contact touchdowns.

I might get into more foam board models after these two.

Ray

I've been away for a while, seems like Depron is hard to find and dunno what happened to balsapr.com but it looks like their C foam is gone; does that just leave DTFB and whatever that stuff is that Flite Test sells? I really don't care for either of those options, unless Dollar Tree has changed their material in the last few years.

I think the only thing changed at The Dollar Store is that it is now The Dollar and a Quarter Store!

Originally Posted by JayJay76

I've been away for a while, seems like Depron is hard to find and dunno what happened to balsapr.com but it looks like their C foam is gone; does that just leave DTFB and whatever that stuff is that Flite Test sells? I really don't care for either of those options, unless Dollar Tree has changed their material in the last few years.

I forget where I read it but the DTFB is EPS sandwiched between paper. And the paper is 40% of the weight. I've built quite a few of the FliteTest models sold on their website. But lately I've built my own creations. With my latest build I used some Hot Wire Foam Factory Foam Fusion Nontoxic #028B-8. It was $6.95 for an 8oz bottle.

I also bought an 8.5oz bottle of StyroGoo #028SG for $6.95. I haven't tried it yet. The HWFF Foam Fusion works better than Elmer's White glue but at a much higher price. I think it's worth it though since it hasn't separated from the foam. I put a layer of glue under and over blank wet newspaper I bought from Wal-Mart. Here's my latest and only model I covered with it so far.
Don

P.S. FliteTest used to sell the DTFB and then added a newer water-resistant variety 9brown paper vs white) that cost more on their website. I haven't tried it.

22 Oct 2022 Flight of my Scratch-built 4 Motor Mish Mash Monster Model (3 min 52 sec)

I built these two from foamboard available from Hobbycraft here in the UK (it's a material called "WestFoam"). They fly pretty well, especially the pink one, but they are fairly heavy compared to the Flite Test kits.

The pink model had its nose extended to make it less tail-heavy, but it still required about 40g of nose weight (compared to 70 in the other one).

They fly really nice, though.

Originally Posted by hifinsword

I forget where I read it but the DTFB is EPS sandwiched between paper. And the paper is 40% of the weight. I've built quite a few of the FliteTest models sold on their website. But lately I've built my own creations. With my latest build I used some Hot Wire Foam Factory Foam Fusion Nontoxic #028B-8. It was $6.95 for an 8oz bottle.

I also bought an 8.5oz bottle of StyroGoo #028SG for $6.95. I haven't tried it yet. The HWFF Foam Fusion works better than Elmer's White glue but at a much higher price. I think it's worth it though since it hasn't separated from the foam. I put a layer of glue under and over blank wet newspaper I bought from Wal-Mart. Here's my latest and only model I covered with it so far.
Don

P.S. FliteTest used to sell the DTFB and then added a newer water-resistant variety 9brown paper vs white) that cost more on their website. I haven't tried it.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=apl0GzsdRkg

I have a supply of silkspan leftover from the good old days, could I use that with minwax polycrylic to 'glass over DTFB? Next stop I guess would be fan fold foam but I have never liked the idea of that pink junk.