With good instructions from Dumas;a lot of help from folks on this site;and the book "Mahogany In Scale" I have managed to get my 30,s runabout to the finishing stage. However, have one big question.

Just put the second layer of West Marine epoxy on the boat. On the hatches, I have now put on 3 coats. After 3 coats the surface is smooth. I then wet sanded the surface(hatches) with 320 and 600 grit paper. After the sanding, the gloss is gone. My question is--;do I leave it dull or put one last shiney coat of epoxy on it?

Or--does the final coat (plan on using several coats of spar spray polyuretane) restore all the luster?

Would really appreciate some help here.!!!!

Note--wet sanded the hatches after each coat and plan to do same on rest of boat. Issue is what to do after last coat of epoxy applied.

Don't use indoor poly! Make sure it is outdoor, like Spar Finish.

I would put another coating of West on with a foam brush. I would then wet sand with 1000 and 1500. I do a final sanding with 2000. Go light, because you could burn through.

Before I started using 2 part automotive clear I used Minwax clear poly gloss in a spray bomb. Home cheapo sells it. Do the final sanding with 2000 grit, get a can of spray and warm it up. Under a sink faucet running with fairly warm water. Spray the boat as normal and the warm poly gloss will lay down nice and smooth. After it dries you can check for dust boogers and polish them out with a micro mesh kit. A final coat of lemon fresh pledge will keep the wet look. Here are some pics done with minwax poly from a spray can.

The clear lack will make it glossy once again. I have done test pieces with several conditions. One condition I tested was medium sanding with 600 grit followed by auto clear coat. Came out nice! Just keep in mind that you will eventualy (after laying all your coats) have to sand the orange peel out of the clear lack as well and then polish... that is if you are going for that perfect finish...

Great finish pa!

Thanks folks. So to sum it up--I should wet sand the last coat of epoxy with 1,000--1,500--and last 2,000 grit.---then apply the spray poly after heating the can-- and after final coat of poly--polish it out-- do I have it right?

You only want the can warm. It can explode if you heat it too much. Keep shaking it under a running faucet until it is just warm to the touch. You might not have to polish it out. The clear minwax really lays down nice and the gloss is great. But if you have to polish it out a micro-mesh kit from the hobby shop works fine. The pledge polish really brings the shine out after the polishing kit. It's not that hard but alot of labor. The other way to go is 2 part automotive clears but they are expensive and you need a spray gun. They make a 2 part clear system in a spraybomb now, but it is pretty expensive and has a one time use. The minwax clear poly was my way to go until I went with the auto clears. I still use the minwax most of the time as it is WAY cheaper and the results are great as you can see from the pics above. This is just my way and I'm sure there are a hundred other ways to get a decent clearcoat.
Bruce

cicerokid, sounds about right, I start the polishing with 2000 grit wet. Mabey papower found a spray clear that does not orange peel. I never saw one myself. But I suppose it must be possible. take your last coat and put it in direct light and turn slowly... You can only see orange peel in certain lighting unless its realy bad. Then use your micro mesh pads. Its quite easy realy and the finish will amaze you!