Great Planes F-86 Sabre Micro EDF with AnyLink Review - Page 17 - RC Groups
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Jan 23, 2013, 09:03 PM
Registered User
Mine came finally at last! i have an orange rx from my micro rearbear and used it on this plane. It was very tricky with short wires and with a big hand like mine but doable.
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Jan 27, 2013, 12:07 AM
Registered User
TcCobra13's Avatar
my push rod broke the one that comes from under the wing is there any way it can be fixed without replacing it which seems like it would be a pain trying to get the wing off without breaking it
Mar 24, 2013, 04:14 AM
loves to fly...
i know this is a late reply but i'd rather answer it to help someone out. yes i think there is a way to fix this without removing the wing. but it'll be tricky. if you broke the pushrod tho, you will need a replacement. i know how it's setup from having to replace that servo. it's a weird design. in the center of that pushrod is an attachment that has a "peg" on it. that peg slides into a hole on the servo control horn. while keeping the rod in the holes it protrudes from you can put light pressure on it to bend the pushrod out and then slide the rod right and left until you blindly find the hole the peg is supposed to be in by letting up on the pressure of the rod. when its correctly connected, you'll obviously be able to hear the servo is attached. good luck with this trial and error method
May 31, 2013, 06:52 PM
Candid Sky Productions
koss1000's Avatar

issues with the plane?


Quote:
Originally Posted by knighttwister
mine does that sometimes in a hard banking turn. it's like it loses signal for a split second, but recovers before it has any effect on flight surfaces. only throtlr is affected.
if you are in cold weather, that may cause it also.
I have the same issue and that's why I came here to find out if others had the same issues. It almost cuts off for a split second. I never lost control of it but have flown 3-4 minutes. In fact it happens every time and I was going to tear into it but just figured its a cheap POS so why bother if it blows to hell then that will be that.

I does fly decent for a little model and did one hand launch and will never do it again because jets need a little more air flow over the wings IE longer runway to get flying. I always take off and land with the wheels on the conventional runway.
Jun 02, 2013, 09:05 AM
Registered User
CorvetteC5's Avatar
Yes, I too have the motor turning off briefly in flight (and possibly the whole RX) when flown from right to left at the correct angle for long-enough time. Very bothersome. It seems that the RX antenna is shielded from the TX signal by the Lipo. I have repositioned the RX antenna as shown, but have not flown it yet to see if this maintains signal throughout the flight. I may have made it worse.

The idea is to move the RX antenna away from the Lipo and maintain at least a 45 degree angle between the RX and TX antenna. Ideally the antennas should be parallel, of course.
Jun 05, 2013, 07:40 PM
Registered User
fairplane's Avatar
If you look in the canopy you will see a slot- the antenna should be installed straight up into the slot

Quote:
Originally Posted by CorvetteC5
Yes, I too have the motor turning off briefly in flight (and possibly the whole RX) when flown from right to left at the correct angle for long-enough time. Very bothersome. It seems that the RX antenna is shielded from the TX signal by the Lipo. I have repositioned the RX antenna as shown, but have not flown it yet to see if this maintains signal throughout the flight. I may have made it worse.

The idea is to move the RX antenna away from the Lipo and maintain at least a 45 degree angle between the RX and TX antenna. Ideally the antennas should be parallel, of course.
Jun 05, 2013, 10:27 PM
Registered User
CorvetteC5's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairplane
If you look in the canopy you will see a slot- the antenna should be installed straight up into the slot
I appreciate the help. Are you referring to the black plastic of the canopy where, when looking at the underside, I find a slot that is the molding of the pilot seat headrest? If not then I am unsure what other slot you mean.

Where did this information originate from? Is this your recommendation or Great Planes?

I agree that positioning the RX antenna straight upwards and above the fuselage should produce the least glitchy signal. I am unable to do that due to the canopy being over the RX, of course.
Jun 06, 2013, 08:46 PM
Registered User
fairplane's Avatar
Yes that's the slot- I read about orienting the antenna like that here on RCGroups. There were a lot of cutouts when this plane first flew. I put in the hobby king receiver and I still put the antenna into the canopy slot( pilots headrest)

Quote:
Originally Posted by CorvetteC5
I appreciate the help. Are you referring to the black plastic of the canopy where, when looking at the underside, I find a slot that is the molding of the pilot seat headrest? If not then I am unsure what other slot you mean.

Where did this information originate from? Is this your recommendation or Great Planes?

I agree that positioning the RX antenna straight upwards and above the fuselage should produce the least glitchy signal. I am unable to do that due to the canopy being over the RX, of course.
Jun 16, 2013, 08:07 AM
Registered User
CorvetteC5's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fairplane
Yes that's the slot- I read about orienting the antenna like that here on RCGroups. There were a lot of cutouts when this plane first flew. I put in the hobby king receiver and I still put the antenna into the canopy slot( pilots headrest)
fairplane, very good call. The F-86 has been flying without brownouts for the very first time with the RX antenna moved as you described. Thanks. Greatly appreciated!
Feb 07, 2017, 03:51 PM
Registered User
just bought this plane used from a member. it had a slightly deformed nose. no missing pieces. any idea how to best get it straight?

also is it easy to cut off the micro dean and put on a jst? is the wire from ESC long enough? afraid it would melt the foam while soldering. (plane yet to be mailed, so can't check)

any other recommended mods or batteries?
Feb 07, 2017, 06:03 PM
Registered User
AntiArf's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by vincesd
just bought this plane used from a member. it had a slightly deformed nose. no missing pieces. any idea how to best get it straight?

also is it easy to cut off the micro dean and put on a jst? is the wire from ESC long enough? afraid it would melt the foam while soldering. (plane yet to be mailed, so can't check)

any other recommended mods or batteries?
You should be able to solder pretty close to foam, granted that the model is positioned so that the heat goes upward, away from the foam. If you can pre-tin the stripped ends, hopefully you shouldn't have to be soldering for long, to solder the leads together. You may be able to do it with a pen iron, if it has enough heat. Don't forget to slide the heat shrink on first, taped away from the soldering area.

I haven't tried it, but I've seen some incredible straightening results obtained by dipping these pressed in foam noses, in a pan of hot water, probably at or near boiling. I've seen nose protectors, but they only protect the tip of the nose. CF spars glued into the fuse weigh, and only reinforce that local area. I'd consider a wipe of foam glue inside the nose, and then inserting a rolled up sheet of very thin (as in 0.01") clear plastic, then pressing it against the inside wall of the intake. The overlapped seam can be glued with a bit of CA, being careful not to use much and have it get to the foam underneath, if not foam safe CA. The liner would add strength, and transfer the load back to where the fuse is thicker. Again I would only use the thinnest clear sheet plastic, as plastic is heavy. I used the concept on a small EDF Comet airliner, where the inlets and outlets had thin foam walls.


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