Hobby King Atom Mini Glider - Page 30 - RC Groups
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Jan 26, 2013, 02:05 PM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Looks like you've used the near boiling water trick on some of it by the looks of the raised areas.
I bought one of those $2.99 HK 3S lipo powered hot glue guns recently. Heats up in around a minute and give a nice thin bead of glue. Ideal for field repairs. I suggest you get your spotter to buy you one!!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Glue_Gun.html
Andy
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Jan 26, 2013, 02:26 PM
FPV Noob
fpsazerbaijan's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by headlessagain
Looks like you've used the near boiling water trick on some of it by the looks of the raised areas.
I bought one of those $2.99 HK 3S lipo powered hot glue guns recently. Heats up in around a minute and give a nice thin bead of glue. Ideal for field repairs. I suggest you get your spotter to buy you one!!
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s..._Glue_Gun.html
Andy
Haha good idea Andy! It was inevitable, she'd never flown fixed wing before, anyways it was a good test of my repair skills

-Al

P.S No boiling water used at all, just hot glued all the cracks/holes
Jan 27, 2013, 04:08 AM
Registered User
I'm planning on making ailerons for this plane.

I already have a couple of slim servo's from an old double horse helicopter that died many moons ago, got servo Y cable on it's way and i'm happy enough with cutting out the ailerons and using tape for the hinges.

However I have no real idea what the parts are called for attaching the servo's to the ailerons.

I searched for control horns on goodluckbuy and found nothing, is there another name for those? Also is there a name for the metal rod that attaches to the servo arm (I assume paperclips won't do the job) and the part that you attach to the control horn to allow for adjustments? Is that even required?
Jan 27, 2013, 04:17 AM
Registered User
Control horns is what I know them as, and I'm sure the pack I got from my LHS says that too.
Pushrods, snap on connectors.
I'm going to do a single servo aileron mod, maybe tonight.

Also got a more ambitious idea... Looking at the space under the wings, behind the servos. I think if I cut a section out, maybe strengthen with CF, I could slide in my Crius AIO and make it a little drone...
Jan 27, 2013, 04:37 AM
Registered User
Would this be a suitable set of parts for connecting the servo's to the ailerons, or is there a cheaper/better/easier way of doing it?

Push Rod
Linkage Stopper
Control horn
Jan 27, 2013, 04:51 AM
Registered User
You wouldn't need those rods, just a bit of piano wire. The connectors you linked to just lock on with a screw. You could even just use wire and bend the ends into an 'S' to save weight.
Jan 27, 2013, 05:27 AM
Reap the wild wind
headlessagain's Avatar
Those are my favourite horns on lighter weight builds. Use one linkage stopper at the servo or horn and make a Z bend for the other end. An alternative to Z bends is to make a simple L bend and use snap-click clevis's http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...3mm_10pc_.html
Andy
Jan 27, 2013, 04:38 PM
Registered User
Cut holes for my extra servo, and started working out if I can fit the Crius in there..
Feb 17, 2013, 06:22 AM
Registered User
So I maidened my Atom with mods today.

I've cut Ailerons into the wings, used tape to hinge them and just have wire bent to a Z at each end between the servos and control horns.

I also removed the rudder servo and taped the rudder control surface so it won't move.

I've upgraded the motor/esc to Turnigy 1811 2900kv running on a 10A Esc and 4.5x4.5E prop.

After a couple of failed launches (previously i've thrown this forwards but now have to throw it up) managed to get it in the air. Far happier using Ailerons to turn than I was with a rudder, I feel it has loads more control even though the surfaces have a bit of slop to them due to not using linkage stoppers.

Speed seems to have increased significantly too with the new motor though i've had the motor cut out on me when full throttle, unsure on what's happening there, new to this whole matching ESC/Motor/Prop so i'm probably pulling too many amps. Any advice here would be appreciated....I don't own a volt meter at the moment though.


All in all the upgrades went fairly smoothly. Because the airframe is small and thrown about by the wind a bit anyway I wasn't all that bothered about getting the thrust line and control surfaces dialed in all that accuractely, it's still balanced roughly on the spar for it's CG.

It will now climb close to vertical, do loops with ease, do (albeit messy) rolls and I even gave it a try inverted (fairly brave given it's my first plane) and it seemed to handle that just fine and climb out of it with ease.

Great little project airframe this one.
Feb 17, 2013, 06:53 AM
Mark
mlp666's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders
Would this be a suitable set of parts for connecting the servo's to the ailerons, or is there a cheaper/better/easier way of doing it?

Push Rod
Linkage Stopper
Control horn
Hi,

I used an old slope soaring technique to connect my ailerons. I attached flat Z shaped wire to the aileron by drilling a hole and a grove into it. I put the wire through the hole and rested it into the groove and then epoxied carbon tow (cotton thread would work) around it. Using threaded wire and control horn to attach to the servo, I joined the two with 2mm electric shrink wrap and then popped a drop of CA both ends to ensure they wouldn't slip.

Mark
Feb 17, 2013, 07:32 AM
Space Coast USA
hoppy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders
i've had the motor cut out on me when full throttle, unsure on what's happening there, new to this whole matching ESC/Motor/Prop so i'm probably pulling too many amps. Any advice here would be appreciated....I don't own a volt meter at the moment though.

.
That prop has been used with 2s batteries.

The usual reason why a motor cuts out at full throttle is that the LVC has cut in. The motor draw is causing the pack voltage to drop below the LVC set voltage.

If you have a cell checker you can plug it into the balance connector and see what's happening to the voltage at full throttle. An ampmeter is almost mandatory for electric flying as a light bulb is to see in the dark.

Try a smaller prop.
Feb 17, 2013, 09:17 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoppy
That prop has been used with 2s batteries.

The usual reason why a motor cuts out at full throttle is that the LVC has cut in. The motor draw is causing the pack voltage to drop below the LVC set voltage.

If you have a cell checker you can plug it into the balance connector and see what's happening to the voltage at full throttle. An ampmeter is almost mandatory for electric flying as a light bulb is to see in the dark.

Try a smaller prop.
Tested and LVC it is, the voltage drops very low very quickly at max throttle on 3S.

I'll look at ordering a couple of smaller props, thanks.
Feb 18, 2013, 05:52 AM
ɹǝʎןℲ ǝıssn∀
taz101's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders
So I maidened my Atom with mods today.

I've cut Ailerons into the wings, used tape to hinge them and just have wire bent to a Z at each end between the servos and control horns.

I also removed the rudder servo and taped the rudder control surface so it won't move.

I've upgraded the motor/esc to Turnigy 1811 2900kv running on a 10A Esc and 4.5x4.5E prop.

After a couple of failed launches (previously i've thrown this forwards but now have to throw it up) managed to get it in the air. Far happier using Ailerons to turn than I was with a rudder, I feel it has loads more control even though the surfaces have a bit of slop to them due to not using linkage stoppers.

Speed seems to have increased significantly too with the new motor though i've had the motor cut out on me when full throttle, unsure on what's happening there, new to this whole matching ESC/Motor/Prop so i'm probably pulling too many amps. Any advice here would be appreciated....I don't own a volt meter at the moment though.


All in all the upgrades went fairly smoothly. Because the airframe is small and thrown about by the wind a bit anyway I wasn't all that bothered about getting the thrust line and control surfaces dialed in all that accuractely, it's still balanced roughly on the spar for it's CG.

It will now climb close to vertical, do loops with ease, do (albeit messy) rolls and I even gave it a try inverted (fairly brave given it's my first plane) and it seemed to handle that just fine and climb out of it with ease.

Great little project airframe this one.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders
Tested and LVC it is, the voltage drops very low very quickly at max throttle on 3S.

I'll look at ordering a couple of smaller props, thanks.
I just checked the specs on the 1811/2900kv motor on the HOBBYKING web site and it states it is only rated for 7.4v. So running it on 3s is going to over Amp your ESC.
Here:-http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...er_2900kv.html
Now if you go down to the comments and look at the comment by "ohmgnohm" you will see he tested it on 3s, and came up with 10.77Amps..
Now you've stated you are using a 10a ESC. So that will be the reason for your motor cutting out at full throttle!!

LURCH
Feb 18, 2013, 06:23 AM
Registered User
CPMBOY's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ColSonders
So I maidened my Atom with mods today.

I've cut Ailerons into the wings, used tape to hinge them and just have wire bent to a Z at each end between the servos and control horns.

I also removed the rudder servo and taped the rudder control surface so it won't move.

I've upgraded the motor/esc to Turnigy 1811 2900kv running on a 10A Esc and 4.5x4.5E prop.

After a couple of failed launches (previously i've thrown this forwards but now have to throw it up) managed to get it in the air. Far happier using Ailerons to turn than I was with a rudder, I feel it has loads more control even though the surfaces have a bit of slop to them due to not using linkage stoppers.

Speed seems to have increased significantly too with the new motor though i've had the motor cut out on me when full throttle, unsure on what's happening there, new to this whole matching ESC/Motor/Prop so i'm probably pulling too many amps. Any advice here would be appreciated....I don't own a volt meter at the moment though.


All in all the upgrades went fairly smoothly. Because the airframe is small and thrown about by the wind a bit anyway I wasn't all that bothered about getting the thrust line and control surfaces dialed in all that accuractely, it's still balanced roughly on the spar for it's CG.

It will now climb close to vertical, do loops with ease, do (albeit messy) rolls and I even gave it a try inverted (fairly brave given it's my first plane) and it seemed to handle that just fine and climb out of it with ease.

Great little project airframe this one.
hi there,
mind sharing how you mount the motor?...pics?
Feb 18, 2013, 06:29 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CPMBOY
hi there,
mind sharing how you mount the motor?...pics?
Can't post pics at the moment as i'm currently at work.

I had every intention of basically pushing the mount part of the motor into the foam of the plane as I did a very neat job of dismantling and removing the old motor.

I didn't realise just how tiny that motor was going to be though!

I used half of the casing of an OrangeRX 610.

The base of the motor sits snugly between the moulded bits of the casing...a bit of CA holds it in nicely.

I then carved into the foam some room for it to slide down into. It seems fairly secure though I may not have the thrust angle bang on.

I'll post pics later when I get home...but be warned it's anything but neat!


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