Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 02:54 PM
Husky2000 is offline
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Hi all

OK, months ago I posted here that I was collecting the parts needed to build a tricopter. Well I've finally got round to building it and I'm quite pleased with the result.

But...

I don't know what to do next. When I power everything up I get no response to stick inputs on my dx6i. Nothing.

I THINK i've flashed the board with 1.6 firmware, and everything else is pretty much as RC Explorers build except I have used Hobbywing FLyfun ESC's (confirmed to work fine earlier in this thread).

So where do I start? Do I set up my transmitter in some way? Do I need to arm the board somehow?

Stuck
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 03:27 PM
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Matt, good point. I'm also interested in tilting the motors (from center) outward or inward for response and stability.
Husky, ya gotta give more info than that.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 04:02 PM
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Yeah, sorry NiceGuy, I was busy reading and watching videos at the same time as posting. Whew, one thing at a time.

Right, I've learned about arming the board so now I have some control. Next I think I should figure out if the gyros are creating the correct response. After that it's time to fix the props on and give it a go.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 06:09 PM
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Brilliant! Success, it flies. Well it does a weird sort of bouncy hop / crash thing and landed on my best Hosta more than once but for tonight I'm very happy

It's dark now so I can't do any more testing but at least I know I'm on my way to planet multicopter.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 06:49 PM
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I started building my 1st tricopter today. It's about half done now.

Some questions came to mind:
1. Seeing that the motors draw about 8 to 10 amps, 18awg wire should be sufficient. I don't understand why David uses 16awg in the instructions since it's much heavier wire, and the wire on the ESC's are 18awg too.
2. I tried desoldering a wire from the Turnigy ESC, but I when the solder melted, the wire was still stuck. So to prevent heat damage I aborted that idea. Are the wires just soldered on, or stuck in holes or under plates?
3. Are you guys using the live video out from the GoPro because I've often read of lag being an issue, but I'm not sure if that's related to older firmware or model? I haven't noticed any lag in mine (HD HERO) yet, but haven't really tested it thoroughly.

Then, I've read about half the pages in this thread, and noticed that some people had the screws that hold the motors come loose even when set with loctite. You could do that and pull a tie-wrap tightly around the motor holder so that it keeps the screws in even when the loctite fails.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 07:08 PM
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It's great you guys are building these copters, they are inexpensive and a ton of fun to boot.

^^ On point one, I think the 18awg would work. I'm just not sure it could handle the peak amp draws well enough? Could that lead to an ESC reset?

Point two, you need a soldering iron that can dump enough heat into that connection quick. I have some smaller irons that are not up to the task but my trusty weller WTCP does it easily.

Not sure on the Hero lag time, Give it a tri !
Old Jun 24, 2012, 07:49 PM
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Howdy NiceGuy. I'd be interested in that buddy code for the little quad

Thanks

Paul in Rim Country Arizona
Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:16 PM
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just about to assemble my wood-armed tricopter.

But I would like to know how long is too long for the wood arms?

I am simply using a Spidex folding tri frame and swapping in 1/2" pine in place of the oem alu arms. So I can make em as long as I like.

My aim is for maximum stability while still using a basic gyros-only KK board and a decent FPV system.

got some very sweet feeling $30 NX-4006 motors from HK, and plan to use Mystery 20A ESC

Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BCSaltchucker View Post
just about to assemble my wood-armed tricopter.

But I would like to know how long is too long for the wood arms?

I wouldnt go much longer than the original rcexplorers wooden arms. I doubt it will make it any more stable. If anything it will add more flex and increase the chance of vibrations. Also extra weight from the wood and motor wires needed. Also less of a chance of an arm breaking during a crash with shorter arms.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcbif View Post
I wouldnt go much longer than the original rcexplorers wooden arms. I doubt it will make it any more stable. If anything it will add more flex and increase the chance of vibrations. Also extra weight from the wood and motor wires needed. Also less of a chance of an arm breaking during a crash with shorter arms.
sounds reasonable

I re read the RCexplorer specs - 48cm! That is really long anyways. The Spidex oem 31cm arms dwarfs my HT-FPV frame.

thanks, I will cut at 48cm
Old Jun 24, 2012, 08:57 PM
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I finally got my tricopter frame built. It's just waiting for the ESCs to come in from HobbyKing.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 11:02 PM
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whats the shortest you guys have gone on your arms? How does it fly in comparison. Im running 17" right now.

on a side note I had someone display a shotgun to my tricopter as it flew near and someone else throw a bottle at it this weekend in two separate incidents.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 11:17 PM
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I'm almost three weeks into my new life as a tricopter owner, and even for me, it's fun seeing so many people jump on the bandwagon. Everybody's a noob at one point, but it only gets better and better from there - even with all the crashes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by slowjett View Post
on a side note I had someone display a shotgun to my tricopter as it flew near and someone else throw a bottle at it this weekend in two separate incidents.
Dang, slowjett. Everyone that sees me flying my tri is nothing but fascinated by it and asking all kinds of questions. Not a single projectile thrown my way. I think I'll be staying far far away from your flight area.
Old Jun 24, 2012, 11:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bazman View Post



Dang, slowjett. Everyone that sees me flying my tri is nothing but fascinated by it and asking all kinds of questions. Not a single projectile thrown my way. I think I'll be staying far far away from your flight area.
So far I've gotten 2 negatives out of seemingly 100's of positive reactions. I'm not counting the shotgun indecent. That guy was just being silly. He didn't point the gun, he was actually holding it as I flew over and looked up and pumped it. Was kind of funny. He came over after and expressed his excitement over the thing.

I think it took me an extra hour to get out of the flying spots this weekend as I was surrounded by people wanting to know all the info about it. the most popular questions "Where can I get one?" "Will you sell me one?" and the most popular "How much does that cost?"

I actually got impromptuly interviewed by Reason Magazine over it this weekend.
Old Jun 25, 2012, 01:17 AM
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Maidened my tri today. It went well but have some questions:

How much gain do people generally have in the KK board pots? I'm about 75% after fooling around with this today.

It seems that I need to offset the yaw motor / servo with a fair amount of angle at mid-stick toward the left to keep the tri "hovering". Is this normal. I ended up with about 50 clicks of sub-trim when flying and have moved the servo spline 2-3 notches now.

It's surprising to watch how much the servo motor swings that yaw motor during hovering. Maybe this is normal, and I've just never seen it before on my CP heli's. I'm using a analog servo since it's what I had, but wonder now if I need a digital. Does the KK board "care" if I'm using analog or digital and do I need to change any settings? I didn't see anything about this but my Align 750 gyros make a point of setting the servo type.


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