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Phew!!! Without the top wing attached I thought I'd sent you Ryan's Daughter plans. Looks much better now though.
Do you think maybe 16swg, rather than 18swg wire would stiffen the c/s struts? With those top sections bound and soldered I didn't think there'd be any inclination to lean backwards. Maybe gluing the ends into the tubes would help - if the ends can't move, the struts shouldn't be able to lean. Then again, the whole thing should stiffen up considerably once the bottom wings are fixed and the i/p struts glued in place. Pete |
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Hi Pete,
I'm sure there will be an improvement when the struts are glued in the mounting tubes. They're bending slightly as well as rotating, but adding the wooden strut fairings should help with that. A single (scale) wire from the top rear struts to the top of the fuselage between the front struts will solve the problem without any doubt. In flight there won't be any issues at all but I'm a bit concerned about hard landings! This could have been a design weakness on the real thing as I notice some restorations have extra wire bracing on the centre-section. Rich |
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Ok where were you with the landing gear jig thingy post when i needed it . I did my first complex landing gear recently, a simple jig like that would have made it even easier. Simple ideas dont seem to to come to me often.......(or ideas in general, sadly)
It sure looked like a ryan with the single wing, and looks sharp with both on thier. Nice build, in a very nice size (for me at least) |
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If you have a moment to answer a question....
When you built the fuse, did you just pin the sides vertically over the plans in order to place the cross braces on the rear half? I have trouble visualizing how to keep the whole thing square while your building it. (Forgive me, im mostly a foamie guy that wishes he could build balsa.....) Cass |
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Basically, yes, that is one way to do it, and is the way I do it.
I have a couple of 'squares' that I use to hold the sides vertical as I glue in the cross members. This is also where you have to be careful as you bend in the ends at the tail. I use a lot of pins to hold the shape I want as I bend it. Then I use a clamp (clothespin or similar) to hold the tail together while I check to make sure everything is still straight and square. Only then do I apply the glue (Titebond II or med CA). I will also use some gussets at key points to help keep things square. Once set up I will glue in the bottom crossmembers. Carefully clamping to keep from twisting the fuse.. charlie |
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Since Cass is possibly refering to his Eindecker fuselage, the only additional point I'd make, since there isn't really any way that can be pinned to the board for more than a very short distance, is to put a block of some kind under the tail. Pin the block to the board, pin the front of the longerons to the board and, once correctly aligned, pin the tail ends to the block. That helps keep it all square over its' length while you add the cross braces.
Pete |
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Ok, thanks Pete. I had a heck of a time, i finally seperated the rear section from the front then built up the rear one at a time, flipped and repeated then re-attached it to the front fuse.
Sorry to hijack this thread, but thanks i need to slow down and use more jigs when i build. Dan |
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Sorry, but, Pete has got it for the eindekker and similar fuse shapes.
Jigs are great. I wish I used them more often, but, I am usually not patient at all so will muddle through without using them. charlie |
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Jigity Jigity .....Quote:
In case you-all weren't aware, there are a bunch of "jigs" available at: www.bhplans.com, & he has quite a variety. Laramie. |
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The Waco fuselage is a bit different to the Eindecker as it has straight top longerons and can be assembled upside-down on the building board. On the other hand, it has formers to support the top deck stringers but no 1/8-square cross-members between the upper longerons. I cut some temporary cross-members to get the correct curve in the longerons while I was aligning the sides over the plan. There's no real reason not to glue the upper cross-members in place, except that they aren't needed when the formers are added so they would be a tiny bit of dead weight.
I usually use foam-core (3mm hi-density foam with a paper covering on both sides, sold in art shops) for one-off jigs. If I were building an Eindecker I'd cut a few upside-down T-shaped jigs to hold the sides apart and support the longerons the correct distance off the board. A couple of measurements off the plan at each jig station should be enough to draw accurate jigs. Like Charlie I have a couple of squares that I use for simple fuselages. Mostly I use wood glue but when I've got everything lined up to my satisfaction I glue the tail end with CA as it is often hard to hold the sides together while wood glue sets. I'm going to use foam-core jigs to set up the wings on the Waco. They will hold the fuselage off the board and dead level, and set the lower wing tips the same distance off the board as well. Hopefully the upper wing will then be level as well! I've just &^%$@#ed up the centre-section struts. Perhaps I need a jig for them too... |
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Quote:
Dan |
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I had a decent amount of time for building on the weekend and made some useful progress. The aileron servos are attached to ply plates which are screwed into the bottom of the top wing. I glued balsa blocks to the plates and mounted the servos with screws- since the servos are easily accessible they may as well be easy to remove. This just about guarantees I'll never have to touch them after initial setup...
The top wing is retained by a couple of brass straps which trap the centre-section struts in a channel. The straps are simply flat pieces of brass. I have yet to file the ends to a pleasing and symmetrcial shape, just in case anyone thought I was going to leave them like that! The covering is Polyspan and it's very nice to use. It can be attached with dope but I find it easier to use Balsaloc. The fin and rudder are heat-shrunk and have one coat of 50/50 dope, two more to go before sanding lightly and painting. The entire tail and lower wings are also covered but there are lots of little jobs to do before I can cover the top wing and the fuselage. Next up is the radiator, which is needed so I can route the aileron servo wires out of the wing. They will go through the radiator and into the fuselage via the radiator outlet pipe. |
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This weekend has been a bit of a washout as far as building goes- number 2 son fell out of a tree house and broke his foot yesterday and we've been up late the last couple of nights trying to get snakes out of the house! Ah, country life...
I've finished doping the tail surfaces though, and re-done the covering on the upper surface of the lower wing tips as there were some wrinkles I just couldn't shrink out. Done a few other minor things too- sanded the rust off the centre-section struts! Hopefully next weekend will be more productive. Rich |
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