I did a new test this morning, with the Shrimp/AG600/RX100 combo, this time using the "proven" idea of adding a second baseplate that sits on top of four EAR isolators. This did the trick, and I'm now finally getting bounce and jello-free video. I had one issue with the tilt control, however. I have this on a notched slider on my Tx, and sometimes I can get it right between two values, and it will jump to one, or the other. When I took off on this flight, I inadvertently bumped the slider, which pointed the camera down farther than I normally have it. At a couple points, I adjust the angle again. Anyway, these control-related inputs are really the only movement in the video. Hovering now, it is rock-solid. Before, that was the worst case for jello and for micro bounces.

Shrimp Isolated Motor Mount Test 03 (4 min 42 sec)

Anyway, I will update the RX100 adapter kits, to the new baseplate configuration, which is slightly different in the pics below, from the new production version I just received.

So, I'm happy, now, with my Shrimp/AG600/RX100 setup. Next it is back to the F330. I just installed the new mini-LG/IMS set that Andrey sent me, and next I will install a plate to hold the H3B. More tests of the 2.7k/30p mode tomorrow.

-- Gary

Attached is the new LG/IMS setup for the F330. This setup will now have three distinct levels of isolation, rubber grommets on the motor mounts, some of John's speargun tubing between the F330 lower plate and the LG center section, and then finally the regular IMS silicon isolators which are spaced wide apart. Initially, this will get a simple plate, that will be attached to the H3B's plastic housing, but eventually I'll add the new compact tilt-only gimbal that Andrey is finishing up.

-- Gary

Wonderful. Just when I think I have my roll jitter figured out on my Ag550 after finding that the roll pulley was a little tight on the shaft and backing that off a bit so it wouldnt bind, updating the hfg to 1.9 and re-re-re-calibrating everything, I accidentally plugged my servos in one pin off to the right and it appears to have fried them both. Before I get 2 new ones has anyone used any other servos that performed any better than the MKS? @#%$@$^@$$%^@!!!!!!!!!

Originally Posted by GGoodrum

Attached is the new LG/IMS setup for the F330. This setup will now have three distinct levels of isolation, rubber grommets on the motor mounts, some of John's speargun tubing between the F330 lower plate and the LG center section, and then finally the regular IMS silicon isolators which are spaced wide apart. Initially, this will get a simple plate, that will be attached to the H3B's plastic housing, but eventually I'll add the new compact tilt-only gimbal that Andrey is finishing up.

-- Gary

Hey Gary, glad to see you're still getting to put some of my rubber washers to experimental use. -- Looking forward to the tube baseplate going up on your site. Using its, are you able to get your RX100 balanced, and still have the lens close to the axis pivot point? -- Don't want to get a controversy going over whether that is necessary or not. I just want to put it there, cause I want to put it there. -- JOHN

Originally Posted by digitalCAM

Hey Gary, glad to see you're still getting to put some of my rubber washers to experimental use. -- Looking forward to the tube baseplate going up on your site. Using its, are you able to get your RX100 balanced, and still have the lens close to the axis pivot point? -- Don't want to get a controversy going over whether that is necessary or not. I just want to put it there, cause I want to put it there. -- JOHN

Yes, your speargun tubing is still one of the most effective means of isolation that I've found.

Yes, with the new baseplate I was able to not only get the camera balanced perfectly on the gimbal, I was also able to get the lens centered in the roll axis. In theory, it shouldn't matter, but the reality is that the roll compensation is hard to get perfect and errors get amplified the farther the lens is from the centerline. I added a sliding collar to the non-servo side, as a way to balance, which is how you can have the RX100 over far enough to get the lens in the center.

-- Gary

Gary,

Where did you find the nice LED lights?

Jim

Originally Posted by W9UUM

Gary,

Where did you find the nice LED lights?

Jim

I got them here: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ledlights.html. They work off of 6V so I just made a simple adapter to use the 6V BEC that drives the HFG board and the gimbal servos.

-- Gary

Originally Posted by GGoodrum

Yes, your speargun tubing is still one of the most effective means of isolation that I've found.

Yes, with the new baseplate I was able to not only get the camera balanced perfectly on the gimbal, I was also able to get the lens centered in the roll axis. In theory, it shouldn't matter, but the reality is that the roll compensation is hard to get perfect and errors get amplified the farther the lens is from the centerline. I added a sliding collar to the non-servo side, as a way to balance, which is how you can have the RX100 over far enough to get the lens in the center.

-- Gary

Attached is a picture of how it balances. The roll belt is off. You can see the collar on the left side. I had to add a bolt as well, but I think the best way would be to just maybe have the yoke tube a little longer on that side, and put the collar on the outside. That would probably eliminate the need for the bolt.

Originally Posted by GGoodrum

I got them here: http://www.hobbypartz.com/ledlights.html. They work off of 6V so I just made a simple adapter to use the 6V BEC that drives the HFG board and the gimbal servos.

-- Gary

Thanks for that link Gary!

Just bought a bunch plus the 240 light strand!!

I get all my leds from AutoZone. They have an amazing selection. super easy to use.

Originally Posted by W9UUM

Gary,

Where did you find the nice LED lights?

Jim

been doing lot of phantom testing, and I am pretty happy with the isolation scheme . I am finding that stock prop is not good, especially for descending turbulence causing it to wobble and cause jello. I 've tried 9x4 zingers that I had and it is much better even when it is not balanced perfectly.. I have some 8x4s coming. I really like this phantom. nice small and clean.

Originally Posted by GGoodrum

Attached is a picture of how it balances. The roll belt is off. You can see the collar on the left side. I had to add a bolt as well, but I think the best way would be to just maybe have the yoke tube a little longer on that side, and put the collar on the outside. That would probably eliminate the need for the bolt.

Very nice. I am planning to use the RX100 as well, along with the HX20.

Should I specify that when I order the AG600 or will these extra parts for balance and vibration damping come as standart?

By the way, when do you expect the AG600 to be back in stock at tppacks?

Cheers,

I took out the crab yesterday. I adjust PID to 20 and accelerations higher as per direction by HF tech support. I think there is a difference but not sure. Check it out:

GOPR0001 1 (4 min 21 sec)

Originally Posted by LFLoTiTo

Very nice. I am planning to use the RX100 as well, along with the HX20.

Should I specify that when I order the AG600 or will these extra parts for balance and vibration damping come as standart?

By the way, when do you expect the AG600 to be back in stock at tppacks?

Cheers,

The AG600 will now come with the adjustable tube-based baseplate. There will be a secondary EAR baseplate kit for the RX100. I should have those by Wednesday.

Everything will be back in stock at tppacks.com this afternoon, when I get home.

-- Gary

Originally Posted by Wingbreaker

I took out the crab yesterday. I adjust PID to 20 and accelerations higher as per direction by HF tech support. I think there is a difference but not sure. Check it out:

https://vimeo.com/58802868

Michael, that is still messed up in the roll axis. It is almost like something is loose. For your setup, the roll scaling/gain should be set to 30.3750 and the acceleration set to about 250. You should not have to mess with the PID settings at all.

First of all, we need to make sure it isn't something mechanical, and/or a bad servo. This will be easier, over the phone. If you have time today, email me when that will be, and I'll give you a call. Otherwise, we can do it any day this week.

-- Gary