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Jul 30, 2014, 09:52 AM
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PapaGeno21's Avatar
Well the modification is very simple and checking for conductivity is also very simple, I just did not fully understand the why as to the how to do it. But I've done a lot more reading and it seems to make more sense now. Thanks guys!
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Jul 30, 2014, 10:13 AM
Registered User
PapaGeno21's Avatar
Do any of you guys use on off switches on these? I have pins 4/8 on one side of a switch and then 6/ 10 on the other side. So when you plug it in the fan is still on low then flip the switch and it comes out of stand by. However this seems redundant as I still have to plug it into the wall. Should I just remove the switch? I keep the chargers plugged into the supplies before flipping the switch anyways so it's almost like I've created another step for no reason other than to feel special...
Jul 30, 2014, 08:17 PM
Pro beginner
rchelijc's Avatar
Thread OP
As you can probably tell from my first few posts at the start, you can go nuts with switches and knobs. My current setup has zero switches, direct mains switch is all I need. Plus, it encourages me to switch off at the mains when I'm done.
Jul 30, 2014, 09:51 PM
ancora imparo
jj604's Avatar
Agree with this. On my first conversion I added a switch "because I could".

Since then I don't bother.

The only thing I would say is that with the 1300 Watt HP PROLIANT DL580 that I started the whole 12V 100Amp supply with, it is so bloody noisy that being able to turn it to standby while leaving it plugged in can be a minor convenience while you are setting things up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rchelijc
As you can probably tell from my first few posts at the start, you can go nuts with switches and knobs. My current setup has zero switches, direct mains switch is all I need. Plus, it encourages me to switch off at the mains when I'm done.
Jul 31, 2014, 07:17 AM
Registered User
PapaGeno21's Avatar
Yeah I removed the switch on the one that I floated the ground on last night.

I now have one pair doing 24V and one single one for 12V use. Now I just wish I had some bigger packs to push these things a bit. I only run 2S and 4S packs LOL
Jul 31, 2014, 03:57 PM
Registered User
101 pages in three days. I am now a DPS-600PB genius. Thanks to all for the great information and knowledge to get one of these things built.
Jul 31, 2014, 08:19 PM
Registered User
PapaGeno21's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by killer cougar
101 pages in three days. I am now a DPS-600PB genius. Thanks to all for the great information and knowledge to get one of these things built.
Took me about a week, but I have basically read the entire thread as well. I love the progression from the beginning of this thread from where people were figuring things out to mid way and till now how everything is basically known and these things are solid units. I have three and just did my first pack using my 24V setup and could not be happier!
Aug 01, 2014, 06:06 PM
Frankenstein recycled packs
rampman's Avatar
I don't switch mine anymore either but I do add some 3 LED 12V Red strip sections to each so I can see when/if ON. Also helps to see if one trips off or does not turn on when powered up. This has happened a few times already.

Rick
Aug 01, 2014, 06:58 PM
Registered User
PapaGeno21's Avatar
You got a pic of how you did that?
Aug 06, 2014, 05:46 AM
Registered User
I certainly appreciate all of the insight and tips from this thread. I thought I would mention something that I came across last night (sorry if it has already been mentioned). I was able to install a longer ribbon cable by gently prying the top of the connector off with a exacto knife.

You can see the connector with the cap removed (my solder wire is pointing at the connector):



With a longer ribbon cable:



This might help someone utilize some of the extra "options" a little easier.

I hope this helps!

Loren
Aug 08, 2014, 10:31 AM
Registered User
Is there a trick for remove the fan? There is a security, psu doesn't work if the fan is not plugged.
It is too noisy even at low speed.
Aug 08, 2014, 10:33 AM
Suspended Account
You can wire it to slow down or simply replace it. Keep the connector, it is hard to find!
Aug 08, 2014, 11:33 AM
Registered User
As Johnathan said, you may be able to add a resistor inline with the current fan, to slow it down further. Maybe to the point that the noise is acceptable. The supply is likely looking for an rpm signal from the fan, so you probably do need to keep it spinning.

I added a rheostat inline with the fan on my other supply, so I could adjust the speed by turning the knob. If nothing else, it's an easy way to adjust the resistance and fan speed/noise, if you want to figure out what type of resistor you want to wire in.
Aug 08, 2014, 11:53 AM
Suspended Account
Search the thread as there is also a means of activating the thermistor control on the circuit board by grounding two pins, as I recall.

I swapped quieter fans on my two, before I learned my icharger was at risk using them.
Aug 08, 2014, 11:56 AM
Registered User
That's a good point: have you done the mod that slows the fan down?

When you mentioned low speed, I assumed that you had. But if you have not yet connected the pins that slow down the fan, start with that.


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