Has anyone found the keepers to be too large for the eyelets that go through the control horns? On the original kit, the stub the keepers fit over was threaded, on the replacement kit, they are not threaded and the little lock ring will not lock down.

My sense is I'm doing something stupid so feel free to tell me so.

Bk

I've noticed that the keepers won't stay on the connectors if you get them off center. The keepers are a circle of three triangular tines pointing towards the center...if you get the post from the connector between the tines, instead of in the center touching all of them, the keeper will not stay on.

Originally Posted by cwojcik

I've noticed that the keepers won't stay on the connectors if you get them off center. The keepers are a circle of three triangular tines pointing towards the center...if you get the post from the connector between the tines, instead of in the center touching all of them, the keeper will not stay on.

I found that exact same thing happening to me. I thouhgt the hole was to big at first, then put my glasses on and noticed the post was going off to the side going thru the side holes of the keeper. You are correct. The post must stay in the middle of the keeper then they work fine.

That worked, had to pull the wife in, much easier as a two man job.

Thanks,

BK

A couple of questions:

-How fast do you guys charge your TH 2s 450mAh packs?

-So I didn't read the instructions and put the wing/fuse together without letting the Welders "set up" for a few minutes. This means it takes a lot longer to dry, but does it also mean a weaker bond?

Thanks for the help!

1. I charge all my packs at 1C or a little above.

2. Longer dry time, should not affect the bond strength. In fact, a wet fit is probably superior. Does that mean all the bonds should be wet? I don't think so at all. This stuff is stronger than nuts when used as contact cement!

Originally Posted by shunyata

1. I charge all my packs at 1C or a little above.

2. Longer dry time, should not affect the bond strength. In fact, a wet fit is probably superior. Does that mean all the bonds should be wet? I don't think so at all. This stuff is stronger than nuts when used as contact cement!

So if I charge at .5A that should be fine.

Good to know about the glue. Thanks!

Hey, someday I want to grow up to fly just like you guys.

These pushrod locators aren't much use. Is there an
Alternative. Im more used tO snakes.

Are you knocking them loose? or?

Could try running the rods thru plastic tubing?

Push rod locator's? do you mean the little wooden guides or the quick links that go onto the rudder and elevator servo arms and the aileron horns? if you mean the guides they are a little fiddly to set up but they work great once you've got them done.

They are talking about the little circlip type keepers that go on the quick connects on the servo arms.

Well I'm totally confused. My plane hasn't arrived yet and I'm trying to learn as much as I can before it gets here. Are we talking about the little metal things on the controll horns the rods go through?

Tom

bkent was but I'm not sure about Jimbo. I think he means the guides.

Originally Posted by Aviefly

bkent was but I'm not sure about Jimbo. I think he means the guides.

I struggled with them also, I posted before that I felt they should be longer, then you could control the height better. The initial height can vary based on the servo case design.

I've also started using the T-Rex 250 heli ball links on the control horns. they're amazingly small and smooth.

Azarr

Never had any issue with stock setup, it works great. Tore my wing off getting plane out of tree. BK