Originally Posted by Elisecat

Ok Thank you.

I measured mine initially using the LE on the BOTTOM of the plane so I think I did it right from the start. However, mine does not balance there. With 2gm added weight in the nose (where it flies just ABOUT perfectly) mine balances probably in the range of 65-67mm from the leading edge on the bottom of the fuse.

Does anyone have any tricks for getting the pushrods out of the control horns? They both seem very stiff and brittle. Afraid if I try to move a pushrod to a different hole I'll destroy the whole thing....

As I have posted many times 67mm is the sweet spot on mine as far as flying smoothly.. It just lacks the ability to fare nicely on landing at the speed I wish to be landing at. So I'm using 70mm from the LE on the BOTTOM as this seems to give me the flight I'm happy with and nice control on the landing fare. That's right in the center of the round panel hatch on the bottom.

We can still do the flip flop but now I'm in charge of when and were we do it.. We can still do the Sabre dance but I'm in charge of when and were we do it.. And can fly out of it at will..

I have never messed with trying to remove the control pushrods as I know I'll just screw it up.. But if I had to, I would remove the horn first then move the wire and reinstall the horn.

Originally Posted by bruff

I just added a second servo to my F-86 build. Eliminated the problem. I have a stock one also. The parts built one is better I think with the 2nd servo.
Bob

If I did a parts build one I would do the same.. But as I have yet to open mine up and I don't think most new owners are going to want to open theirs up we try and come up with answers that while not the best way of doing something is a least a easy, fast way of solving a problem..

So I played a little with the elevator as suggested. At full deflection, I can move the right elevator up until I hear a click coming from the fuselage. At that point, the two halves will stay together until I return them almost to neutral. When close to neutral, I hear the same click noise again after which the right side won't go all the way up. Almost as if the pushrod is catching onto something. BTW, at 70% travel the difference is not large. Still not sure if I should send it back. I have read in another thread several people reporting a similar issue... If it does not affect flight I am tempted to keep it. Too bad there is not a simple way to access the servo/esc area. I guess I am used to kit building where these problems are easily solved before everything is glued in placed...

Alberto

Originally Posted by ululi1970

So I played a little with the elevator as suggested. At full deflection, I can move the right elevator up until I hear a click coming from the fuselage. At that point, the two halves will stay together until I return them almost to neutral. When close to neutral, I hear the same click noise again after which the right side won't go all the way up. Almost as if the pushrod is catching onto something. BTW, at 70% travel the difference is not large. Still not sure if I should send it back. I have read in another thread several people reporting a similar issue... If it does not affect flight I am tempted to keep it. Too bad there is not a simple way to access the servo/esc area. I guess I am used to kit building where these problems are easily solved before everything is glued in placed...

Alberto

I say fly it and see. I am very particular about my control surfaces lining up just right. I figured I would fly it and see what happened and I was delighted to find that it doesn't seem to affect it at all, or very little.

I am flying at 97% throws and 25-30% expo on elevator and ailerons.

Thanks Livonia Bob.... I agree with you. I may just leave the pushrods alone.

Originally Posted by Elisecat

I say fly it and see. I am very particular about my control surfaces lining up just right. I figured I would fly it and see what happened and I was delighted to find that it doesn't seem to affect it at all, or very little.

I am flying at 97% throws and 25-30% expo on elevator and ailerons.

Thanks Livonia Bob.... I agree with you. I may just leave the pushrods alone.

That was what the tech at Tower told me just now. I will add the Dime to the stock battery and ask our senior instructor to maiden it. Will report the results.
Thanks
Alberto

Alberto, I might of missed it but what battery are you using? Is it the original 200mah or the newer 250mah? Just wondering since I haven't been able to maiden mine yet. I'm going to a fly in Saturday and was thinking of taking it but didn't want to crash in front of everyone. lol I have the 250's.

HI Josh,
I have the 250 mAh battery (99% sure). I may be able to come on Sunday.
I was planning having Joe doing the maiden... BTW, have you noticed the problem with the elevator?

Alberto

I haven't noticed it but soon as I get home I'm going to check it. lol I just hope with this being my first EDF I don't look like an idiot in front of all those people and destroy it. lol

Which fly in you talking about going to?

Originally Posted by JoshB

Which fly in you talking about going to?

No Fly in. I'll stop by our club on the shore of Jordan Lake

Alberto

Originally Posted by ululi1970

No Fly in. I'll stop by our club on the shore of Jordan Lake

Alberto

Oh ok.. Miss understood. lol

I've flown the last 5 flights with the CG @70mm...It flies well but not as perfect as I would like...It still tucks its nose a little in the turns and requires quite a bit of up elevator to keep the model from dropping its nose too much...( Tucking in the turns)...I'm thinking that where some get in trouble with the plane ballooning upward is that the elevator isn't being neutralized fast enough after the turn..I'm going to move the CG back a couple of mm to keep the nose from tucking and also not requiring a ton of elevator during inverted flight...About the ballooning---This model is rather small and you must stay ahead of the model in flight...Meaning to anticipate the ballooning after the turn if you don't neutralize the elevator fast enough after the turn...I'm having so much fun with this plane now that I'm flying it in the tight confines of my back yard....I'm still tweaking it to be perfect but in the long run I may have to settle for a compromise between a touchy elevator and superb inverted flight...

Kevin

Have you tried using a little rudder to keep the nose from falling?

Originally Posted by martimer

Have you tried using a little rudder to keep the nose from falling?

Yep---But with a swept wing model like this the nose tucking in the turns is part of the nature of the beast...You can get get some of the tuck out by going rearward with the CG...But as you know this will only get you so far...With my larger BVM turbine and ducted fan F-86's we used a gyro on the rudder and this really took Dutch Roll and nose tucking out of the equation...A model this small is going to be difficult to get a separate gyro to work...I think that AS3X would be a superior control system with its built-in gyros...I can see many hybrid planes in the future using AS3X bricks in models like this GP F-86...Don't get me wrong---The GP F-86 is a fine plane in its own right, but advanced systems like AS3X will make-em better/more enjoyable!!!...AS3X will also make difficult planes like an ME-262 possible for the masses to fly...I would like to see companies like GP keep micro EDF planes coming...But, there will always be modelers like Nitro and others that will experiment to make these little gems better/more enjoyable...

Kevin

Originally Posted by Kevin Greene

-The GP F-86 is a fine plane in its own right, ....

Kevin - what happened to your "other" small F-86 - the 30mm Art-Tech?

Gene K

Originally Posted by speedy01

Kevin - what happened to your "other" small F-86 - the 30mm Art-Tech?

Gene K

Still have it!!...Flies faster than the GP Sabre but I am flying the AT Sabre on 4S...I put the drop tanks on the AT Sabre and performance did suffer...Loops aren't nearly as large and vertical falls off faster than without the tanks...Pretty much expected...I'm going to remove the drop tanks from the AT Sabre but leave the pylons in place to protect the aileron servos from damage/stripping...The AT Sabre is also better in the wind but it weighs considerably more than the GP Sabre...I actually think that the AT Sabre would have almost the same amount of fans as the GP Sabre if the AT Sabre was distributed by a different company...For $74 it's a real bargain---It can take more abuse than the GP Sbre being made of EPO...But you have to remember, The GP Sabre is made as light as possible to perform in tight places...Heavier planes need more room...I'm now flying my GP Sabre in my back yard with trees, pond, and houses thrown in the mix...Most wouldn't consider this at all!!!...Here is a vid from a keychain cam mounted on my Beast...You can clearly see the obsticals...And one from the ground with my 800mm T-28...If the GP Sabre can fly in tight confines like this then it can fly anywhere!!!

Kevin

Beast.wmv (4 min 27 sec)

800mm T 28 (7 min 46 sec)