Ran across these guys Global Distribution They're here in So-Cal. USA they might have something?.http://globalservices.globalhobby.com/part/Dubro.asp
Kevin

Hi guys

Recieved my orange sbach (which was the colour i ordered) yesterday and put her together in the afternoon and into the evening. First impressions:

PAINT: paint finish was very good, as good as I've seen on a foam model. Only thing is the wings and fuse are both very different colour oranges but I'm not sure if it is suppose to be like that or not.

GLUE: glue is pretty shocking there are big gaps filled with glue that looks like it has been streched out (spider webs), maybe its been in some heat or something! Feels really solid though surprisingly. I put thin ca in the gaps that I could get to go hopefully strengthen it up a bit.

BUILD: fairly simple to put together (except tail wheel) not requiring glue (except for the canopy). However the instuctions are next to useless with there tiny pictures. Only thing they are useful for is telling you which bolt goes with which part. However a few times I was racking my brain trying to figure out if I had the correct bolt as it seemed too short. In some cases I had to compress the foam slightly to get the bolt to take the thread. The most difficult part was putting the rudder and wheel together. The instructions for this detailed section was non existent and having no experience with a push pull rudder had no idea how to do it. Without this thread I wouldn't have been able to do it. Again I thought I had the wrong bolts for this section as they are too long and thick for the application. The parts need drilling to get them to fit correctly. Ensure you don't drill too much though so the thread will still take though. I believe the two holes where the rudder wheel attaches were glued in the wrong spot as the control rods were too long no matter what I did. I decided that I either move the holes possibly damaging foam or shorten the control rods. I decided to shorter the control rods which worked okay. The rest if the build went quite smoothly after that hurdle and I'm happy with the result.

MODS: to begin with I changed out all the servos to metal gear servos.

For the alierons I used turnigy tgy 9018 mg https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17322
to install these or any normal servo you need a servo extender (30cm) so it can reach the wing tip. Ensure you pull the servo extension through with the old servo wire otherwise you will struggle to get it though the wing. With a bit of cutting around the part where the servo sits and the wire comes through you should be able to get the plug through no problems when pulled from the other end of the wing that joins the fuse.

And for the rudder and elevator Hk15288A 52g mg https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=17454
The elevator and rudder servos seem slightly slower than the stock servos though so I hope this doesn't cause an issue with aerobatic moves but as I don't have much experience in that capacity I probably won't be able to tell anyway. As these servos are bigger than the stock a bit of dremel work is required but nothing too major.

Last simple mod was changing the esc connector to an xt90 which unfortunately required me to take the motor and esc out so I could solder safely.

Haven't flown it yet but it definately looks the part. Can't wait to get her in the air. I'll report back after maiden.

Cheers scott

HI Wig......... Your paint may look decent now but wait until you get it in the sun. The wings may or may not bubble like hell making you think the plane caught the pox!! My canopy melted in the sun and the wings look horrid. Hobbyking just blew me off when I asked for new wings. So never buying from them again. However, she flies really nice and is a good size for flight and transporting. So I'm finishing up a Composite T-28 mold and then doing the Sbach in composite because it is that good. Then I can make them whenever I want to with different color schemes finished in auto paints with clear coats. This would make this model a superb looking beast so well worth the effort and it will be much stronger for aggressive aero stuff.

For your maiden I suggest that you add four clicks of positive elevator from zero and set your first take of rates to the middle or you will get one heck of a surprise if not experienced with 3-D type models. Be best for it to be climbing than diving during trim out. I test fly lots of scale planes for people and I have learned this to be best for first flight. Best of luck.......

Originally Posted by acesimmer

...

For your maiden I suggest that you add four clicks of positive elevator from zero and set your first take of rates to the middle or you will get one heck of a surprise if not experienced with 3-D type models. Be best for it to be climbing than diving during trim out. I test fly lots of scale planes for people and I have learned this to be best for first flight. Best of luck.......

+9999999999

For reference, you can watch this.

Hopefully my paint stays nice, I'll try to keep it out of the sun if possible. I actually prefer a model to be pulling down a little when first trimming out a model but that's just my preference. I think it's because I fly quite a few edfs and they have a tendency to stall when being hand launched when pulling up. A prop model with this much power would be a different story though.

Yeah I watched your video, I felt sorry for you when I saw it. Nothing worse than crashing on your first flight ruining the model you spent all that time building.

It's OK, so long as they're made out of foam and I fly safely I'm fairly blase about crashing. It happens, even to the best of us, and I'm certainly not amongst "the best"!

My Sbach is all glued as good as new and flies really nice now. 6 packs again this weekend, practicing knife edges and orientation in inverted flight. No one at the field believes that the plane that crashed is the plane that I fly until I show them where the damage is. It's all good.

Originally Posted by acesimmer

For your maiden I suggest that you add four clicks of positive elevator from zero and set your first take of rates to the middle

I don't understand quite well sorry.

You mean Elevator: +10% (so nose down) and set all CH to 50% of movement?


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Originally Posted by alex_007

I don't understand quite well sorry.

You mean Elevator: +10% (so nose down) and set all CH to 50% of movement?


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Yeah I believe that's what he means. Small amount of up elevator so it climbs a bit and reduced throw rates.

On another note. Just bound the tx/rx and tried the rudder. The control horns are too small and even on 50% rates the control rods hit the fuse and cause the rods to bend and effect the movement of the rudder badly. I'm going to have to change these to bigger ones before maiden. Have other people had this problem? I know a lot of people are changing the control horns for better throws but you'd think they would at least function stock!!

I have not had an issue with the stock rudder setup's control rods impinging on the fuse. Then again, I made an error in the rudder construction and forgot to use the plywood pieces as well. Then I glued everything in, and it's not removable now.

Originally Posted by rayonnair

I have not had an issue with the stock rudder setup's control rods impinging on the fuse. Then again, I made an error in the rudder construction and forgot to use the plywood pieces as well. Then I glued everything in, and it's not removable now.

That's strange then. With you not having the plywood pieces in there it would mean your control rods would be even closer to the fuse you would think causing an even bigger problem. Are you using the stock servos? Maybe my upgraded servos are causing the issue.

Originally Posted by wigsw001

That's strange then. With you not having the plywood pieces in there it would mean your control rods would be even closer to the fuse you would think causing an even bigger problem. Are you using the stock servos? Maybe my upgraded servos are causing the issue.

I'm using these because the crash destroyed the stock servos. But I don't think they're an issue because they are a direct fit without cutting / filing (even the stock servo horns fit). Prior to replacement I think the very ends of the plastic clevises on the rudder control rods were touching the fuse where the rudder control rods exit, but it was not a real issue because it was hardly brushing it.

I think different batches have small differences. My elevator rod, for instance, brushes the top of the rudder servo horn.

The digital servo consum moré than analogic?
What's the difference?

From what I understand, digital servos draw more amps, but are also more precise and have all their torque available around their centres as well as the end points of travel.

Someone with more knowledge will probably come around and give you more authoritative information.

Originally Posted by wigsw001

Yeah I believe that's what he means. Small amount of up elevator so it climbs a bit and reduced throw rates.

On another note. Just bound the tx/rx and tried the rudder. The control horns are too small and even on 50% rates the control rods hit the fuse and cause the rods to bend and effect the movement of the rudder badly. I'm going to have to change these to bigger ones before maiden. Have other people had this problem? I know a lot of people are changing the control horns for better throws but you'd think they would at least function stock!!

Managed to fix the problem by using the full size control horns like the ones on the alierons, now I get plenty of clearance. Just had to drill new holes in them to match up with the original holes.

Now ready for maiden this long weekend, if the weather is good!

Hi everybody,

It seems that the key wing of the mx2 is too short because the wingtips twist, what about the sbach?

Otherwise, no problem with wheels mudguards during landing? Some one say they break...


Alex.

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