Yes, when it comes to electricity, "live" metal touching other "live" metal that is not supposed to be touching is bad news!!!
Your photos are too blurry for me to see clearly; however, it appears the Red wire's insulation may be damaged and is exposing bare metal wire at the back end of the LiPo connector. At that location, one exposed wire is not too critical, but is an accident waiting to happen (waiting for the black wire to get exposed). If the insulation is damaged and the bare wire is exposed, then I'd recommend repairing. (replace red wire, or carefully and securely add heat shrink over exposed section).
When working on electronics, most of the times making mistakes can be very costly. Not only can bad soldering damage the hardware, but when dealing with LiPo's, the possibility of fire damage may be life threatening.
All these things I've commented about in this post is so obvious, that if you didn't already know it, then it might be best to purchase a new Walkera LiPo mating wire harness:
Or incorporate the Micro Deans LiPo Connector mod:
Originally Posted by i812
Micro Deans, 10 pairs @ $6
(This is where livonia bob gets his)
- Wire can be re-soldered back on
- Less Resistance/Voltage (how much?) drop between connectors
- Weighs x grams more than stock connector
- Potential Hazard - Highly advised to use some kind of protective cover/plug at exposed contact to prevent LiPos from accidental mating/shorting to each other when loosely stored.
Then all you'd have to be very careful about is making certain "+" is connected to "+", and "-" is connected to "-", doing a safe soldering job at the RX board, making certain not to create any solder bridges, and that the wire insulations extend all the way to the board so that there's no possibility that the exposed ends of the wires are able touch each other or any other exposed electrical contact on that board.
If you decide to repair the old LiPo wire harness, then you'll have to know how to properly extract, repair, and re-insert the Connector contact. Trying to re-use the crimp type of Contact, by re-soldering can be accomplished if done carefully with a minimum amount of solder so the Contact can be properly and fully re-inserted back inside the Connetor. If the Contact's "V" tang/barb won't spring back open, then something wasn't mechanically done properly (my most likely guess would be too much solder which is not allowing the Contact to be fully inserted, and therefore improper positioning of "V", thereby not allowing the "V" to open up inside Connector's designated "V" hole.