Originally Posted by i812

The first few posts in Tom Z's "Mini ... Review" thread is a good newbie read. If I remember correctly, he has tried and reviewed many of the BL mods.

Also, Tom Z recently created an "Asteroid ... Genius ... Mini ... BL... Review" thread which has video of a very capable Mini: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...4&postcount=48

Yes, I had considered that, but decided to try the double brushless kit. The tail motor definitely has more jam than the stock brushed motor.

BThirsk - what batteries do you get 5 mins aggressive flight with the walkera bless kit please?

Everyone had told me to stay away but it's really affordable and the brushed motor is making me not want to fly it at all. Seems to bog too much to recover in any flips or loops with any settings I try yet and it's no 3D trainer as is.

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

BThirsk - what batteries do you get 5 mins aggressive flight with the walkera bless kit please?

Everyone had told me to stay away but it's really affordable and the brushed motor is making me not want to fly it at all. Seems to bog too much to recover in any flips or loops with any settings I try yet and it's no 3D trainer as is.

its a mini so you do have to be smoothe and manage the colective to maintain good head speed,,,some give too much colective during a flip or roll ,,,half way through a flip you can put the colective to center and this lets the head speed get back to max.before inverted flight or full flip.

Originally Posted by jonnewbie

Just watched a video on youtube and the guy says that the blade tension on the CP should be so that it does not move on its own and should only move if you give the heli a little 'jerk'.

My blades flopped around straight out of the box but I dont have a problem with flying it?

What is the best?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SBm_dLKnakI

I look at the air gaps between the Blade Grip and Blade while gently rocking the Blade tip up-and-down, and tighten the Blade screw just until the air gaps disappear. If there is an air gap, the Blade(s) will flutter and result in a proportionally sloppier flight handling the greater the air gap. Over tightening would be OK provided the Blades were manually straightened to their straight out position. If you tighten them the way I describe just until the up-and-down air gap completely disappears, then you'll be able to know how tight they should be for the "jerk" test. The "jerk" test is subjective because it really depends on how fast it is jerked; whereas, the airgap test is foolproof done using scientific reasoning and is easily reproducible by everyone around the world.

Originally Posted by i812

I look at the air gaps between the Blade Grip and Blade while gently rocking the Blade tip up-and-down, and tighten the Blade screw just until the air gaps disappear. If there is an air gap, the Blade(s) will flutter and result in a proportionally sloppier flight handling the greater the air gap. Over tightening would be OK provided the Blades were manually straightened to their straight out position. If you tighten them the way I describe just until the up-and-down air gap completely disappears, then you'll be able to know how tight they should be for the "jerk" test. The "jerk" test is subjective because it really depends on how fast it is jerked; whereas, the airgap test is foolproof done using scientific reasoning and is easily reproducible by everyone around the world.

Also when they are too tight they dont find the sweet straight ballance spot easy and the bird shakes its head.

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

BThirsk - what batteries do you get 5 mins aggressive flight with the walkera bless kit please?

Everyone had told me to stay away but it's really affordable and the brushed motor is making me not want to fly it at all. Seems to bog too much to recover in any flips or loops with any settings I try yet and it's no 3D trainer as is.

I am using 350mah I got from Helipal. They where listed as Storm, but all the markings are Walkera. The Walkera brushless kit I got had the same 350 battery with all the same markings. Helipal, oomodel, and miraclemart all have them.
As far as aggressive, the most I was doing was pitch pumps just to test out the motor power and see how long it would last.

Originally Posted by Magic k2

its a mini so you do have to be smoothe and manage the colective to maintain good head speed,,,some give too much colective during a flip or roll ,,,half way through a flip you can put the collective to center and this lets the head speed get back to max.before inverted flight or full flip.

Thanks but this bird bogs even in hard banked turns, it's just no fun and then 2 mins is up and it needs to cool down before I can even use it again as the motor is too hot to touch. Maybe if someone could do a stick vid as a month of trying everything just gets me bogtastic falls to the floor, taking it high enough to make mistakes just breaks the skids or boom.

What other small 3D heli's can actually fly like a real flight or aeroflly 3D heli and will a brushless kit get me anywhere near that kind of performance? I understand the pause in cyclic to let the motor recover is golden but a totally different beast to the one I practice with is proving useless to me. Makes the simulator pointless past basic orientation exercises.

So if the Walkera bless kit gives me 3 mins of minimum bogging, i'm in as a last ditch effort to use this for 3D training.

Originally Posted by Magic k2

Also when they are too tight they dont find the sweet straight ballance spot easy and the bird shakes its head.

+1

When the screw is tightened properly, although there will be no airgap between Blade Grip and Blade, the only thing that is really preventing the Blade from flying out is the shaft of the screw, not pressure from the Grips. The screw tightness "sweet" spot is no air gap and no pressure. Although if I had to error, I'd choose on the slightly tighter side, rather than slight air gap, because when the Blade rotates the centripetal force will fling out the Blades perfectly straight provided there isn't too much Blade Grip pressure; whereas if there was an air gap there would always be blade flutter which would result in poorer flight handling due to loss of "crispiness" (I suppose it would be like driving a car with a loose tire or steering wheel)

Here is a 100% stock post from earlier this year:

Originally Posted by buildem336

Hi guys

After flying the Walkera Mini Cp that Dk has I just had to get one. This heli is amazing. In stock form with the stock brushed motors and stock walkera lipo it has alot of power. It has as much power as my Brushless Mcpx.

The Mini Cp is more stable than the Genius and has a fast pyro rate. The pyro rate is faster than the Genius and Mcpx Im really happy about that since I did not like how slow the pyro rate was before. I did have to tighten the screws holding the rx because they were loose.

The Rx has an adjustment pot on it but its flying perfect out of the box so Im not touching it. I have already put about 20 flights thru it and everything is working awesome.

With all the servos and rx so close to the main shaft it flips tighter than the genius. Also the landing gear is really good it should handle crashes alot better.

The new tail prop looks like the Mcpx version 2 and makes that tail hold awesome. Overall I really like it. Walkera keep up the good work.

Here is a video of it flying indoors so you can see it in action. Im flying it with my Devo 12 Tx.

Yes that is a blade scrape on the sofa. LOL
(see below video)

Manuel Campos

Walkera Mini Cp indoor 3d flight (3 min 51 sec)

Originally Posted by i812

Here is a 100% stock post from earlier this year:



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NeitOnuPsQ4

HaHa ,,,i havnt seen that vid for a long time,,i forgot how good he is,,,,3D ready i would say ,,,,i will say it makes a BIG difference when the TX is set right though and dont use heavy lipos,,i use the nano 240.

Yes, I hate to love that video but yes I have watched it a hundred times and wish it had sticks included so I could actually see how far they moved with those settings. If I move to little it dives, if I move too much it bogs - if the useable range is in the middle of there then I need more power. I have no problem flipping any heli any which way on the sim - will bless get me closer to this performance? How small can the heli be and not bog down so badly?

That vid is the reason I bought this heli and also the reason I haven't quite given up yet. I have manuels settings and have tried lots of tamer ones too. So if your saying the only difference is simply technique if my bird is fine and she hovers fine and is very precise indoors then I really do need more power to enjoy this heli.

I was committed to regular practice and finding it very fun indeed but any learning curves I have had are pointless. Is there even an accurate model for any sim so I can practice with the same setup as the simulator?

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

Yes, I hate to love that video but yes I have watched it a hundred times and wish it had sticks included so I could actually see how far they moved with those settings. If I move to little it dives, if I move too much it bogs - if the useable range is in the middle of there then I need more power. I have no problem flipping any heli any which way on the sim - will bless get me closer to this performance? How small can the heli be and not bog down so badly?

That vid is the reason I bought this heli and also the reason I haven't quite given up yet. I have manuels settings and have tried lots of tamer ones too. So if your saying the only difference is simply technique if my bird is fine and she hovers fine and is very precise indoors then I really do need more power to enjoy this heli.

I was committed to regular practice and finding it very fun indeed but any learning curves I have had are pointless. Is there even an accurate model for any sim so I can practice with the same setup as the simulator?

When i was using a sim i found the trex 250 very close ,,,you havnt got your motor too tight on the main gear have you ?,,,,sorry "phoenix sim"

The cable that my connects to my battery....well as you can see in the pic the two prongs have come loose and come out.

Any tips on best way to fix?

Thanks

By design, to extract the Contact from the Connector housing, a little "spring tang" (barb) has to be depressed while simultaneously extracting the Contact from the back end of the Connector.

By design, to insert the Contact into the Connector, simply push the Contact into the back end of the Connector, as the Contact is forced into the back end of the Connector the "spring tang/barb" will self depress, and once the Contact is fully inserted into the Connector the spring tang/barb will open up into the designed hole. The naturally opened spring tang/barb is what prevents the Contact from being able to be pushed back out. Imagine the V-shaped barbed tip of an arrow - the point of the tip makes it easy to insert; however, once fully inserted the barb makes it a difficult to extract backwards.

I'm imagining the "spring tang" may have somehow been depressed too much, and no longer springs "open" (like a V - to extract the V needs to be pressed closed, once released the V should spring back open, then when the V is inserted the Connector body will squeeze the V, and when the Contact is fully inserted the V will spring back open inside the Connector's "hole"). If the barb won't spring back open, then gently bend it open just a little so it remains open just a little and it should be good to go again.

Below is a photo of something similar that has the "spring-tang/barb":



The "spring tang/barb" I'm trying to refer to is the gold colored "tang" part located in the middle of the Connector, where the Connector has a hole.

Originally Posted by i812

The "spring tang/barb" I'm trying to refer to is the gold colored "tang" part located in the middle of the Connector, where the Connector has a hole.

Thanks once again!

Its great to have forums like this especially for newbies who have little knowledge.