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Regarding the servos, the ball links are different sizes.
On the mini's servo the ball is plastic and the same size as the swash ball link. On the genius the ball link is metal and slightly smaller, so the linkage arm has one smaller link and one larger link. This makes managing your spare links kind of a PITA. The genius servo arm also grips slightly tighter so if you're doing the saver mod you may not need a tension-adding device (e.g. o-ring, dental floss, heat shrink, 1.5mm ID fuel tube). I use o-rings on both. See my blog if you don't know what I'm talking about. |
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Anyone successfully repaired a broken coil? I got my new links in today, set my pitch, and went for a test flight sans canopy. Managed to crash and rip it halfway off
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Hey Tom, nice to see you again. What radio did you settle on, I like the 10 that just came out, looks like it would be an easy switch from 2801-Pro to the Devo-10. I like the vibeing alarm, thats about the only thing i would change with the 2801-pro, that and if it was less battery hungry. |
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Hi, I ended up using the 2801 Pro TX for the GCP. I liked it much better than the Devo 7. Still have the Devo 7 TX. Tried to sell it for months but nobody wanted it... At least I can use it on my MCP conversion in a couple of days. The Devo 10 sounds awesome. And the vibrating alarm is a great idea. I plan to get one in the spring or summer. Tom |
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I don't have a Mini yet (I've been told it's in the mail); however, from the photo(s) of the coil that have been posted, it looks like the coil is nothing more than an "air" core Inductor. If so, then you might be able to "roll" your own from wire having the appropriate wire diameter, coil diameter, and correct number of turns. When I was a child, during the last century, in the 70's, I used to roll my own. I had a homemade radio, that required different inductors having different number of coil turns, which were used to help tune the radio to different frequency bands from 0.5 MHz to 30 MHz. Once the coils were "rolled", I'd coat the coil windings with "Elmer's" white glue to help the coils maintain their shape. If you want to know more about Inductors:
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kind of short for me.. just light indoor flying with a few hard pumps, 4 minutes using hyperion 240. to me it gets hot fast.. it's funny though, for the 1220 HK reviews some say it runs super cool yet some say hot.. i could try getting another ESC, unless that's the culprit i don't know..
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The inductance can also be increased or decreased by compressing and expanding the coil or inserting Ferrite. I always used ECW, Enammaled copper wire. |
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I fixed it. I found a small bent tip for my soldering iron and started a small puddle at the base of the coil where it meets the pcb and then slowly drug a small bit of solder up to the coil's wire. Considering the wire is barely visible I think it was more luck than anything.
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Without looking at a schematic it's hard to tell, but my guess is that the coils primary purpose is to prevent noise/spikes on the power bus. A wire link would probably work albeit it wouldn't reduce noise... Wish Walkera would provide circuit diagrams so we can repair these things. |
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