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Old Nov 20, 2012, 08:05 PM
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Team 3DHS / Team JR
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Originally Posted by cookci View Post
Ok I have the fuselage as long as it can be now (by having the cowel as far forward as possible)... this helps with tracking quite a bit
Great. Glad that worked out. A simple thing but it has more effect on this airframe than others in the 5x" class.
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 03:57 AM
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Yes, but it is NIB...I have flown my 55" Edge quite a bit though....

SteveT
you don't need an addiction to learn to Harrier. This edge is the most stable model I have ever flown in a harrier... it almost does if for you
Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:45 PM
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I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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you don't need an addiction to learn to Harrier. This edge is the most stable model I have ever flown in a harrier... it almost does if for you
I know...I would just like to trash an addiction!! And wouldn't feel a bit bad about it when I did....

SteveT
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:50 PM
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Destructive Tester
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I know...I would just like to trash an addiction!! And wouldn't feel a bit bad about it when I did....

SteveT
they are easily trashable......
Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:57 PM
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I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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True that!!

SteveT
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Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Old Nov 22, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Does anyone know the size (diameter) of the metal control rods as I would like to replace them all with fully threaded rod so I can get a ball joint at each end.

I could probably measure myself however I would be concerned I would get it slightly wrong

There is a little play on all of my controls.
Old Nov 22, 2012, 09:20 AM
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Honeybadger don't care...
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2mm, I believe. The Ball links are 2mm, so the rod must be 2mm...

I am using 2-56 dubro ball links on both ends, and 2-56 threaded rod with a CF sleeve for the ailerons and elevator.
Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:12 PM
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Thanks

so this should do the job?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/STAINLESS-...item3f105826b8
Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:20 PM
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Honeybadger don't care...
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I would think that would work great! I would also caution the use of the threaded rod by itself. A short length might be ok, but like this ARF, a carbon sleeve would be a good choice on the elevator. A particularly cautious person might put some on the ailerons too....that's what I'm planning to do (if I have the space on the linkage).
Old Nov 22, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Or I guess it could be worth considering getting some threads put on the existing control rods but I have no idea how to do that
Old Nov 22, 2012, 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by cookci View Post
Or I guess it could be worth considering getting some threads put on the existing control rods but I have no idea how to do that
That's what I did. Easy enough to do by soldering on 2-56 threaded brass couplers. 2mm threaded couplers work too.
Old Nov 22, 2012, 02:08 PM
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That's what I did. Easy enough to do by soldering on 2-56 threaded brass couplers. 2mm threaded couplers work too.
What do i need to thread the rod?
Old Nov 22, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Hi everyone

I'm gonna be sticking some Aurora RC Andromeda lights on this in January. I have two options: glue the lights to the SFGs and use the SFGs as the mounting method or have the lights and SFGs independent (this would mean the SFGs and lights couldn't be used at the same time).

So my question is... how much difference do the SFGs make on this?

Thanks!
Old Nov 22, 2012, 02:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookci View Post
Does anyone know the size (diameter) of the metal control rods as I would like to replace them all with fully threaded rod so I can get a ball joint at each end.

I could probably measure myself however I would be concerned I would get it slightly wrong

There is a little play on all of my controls.
The ball links themselves are M2, but the rod diameter is M2.5.

SteveT
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Latest blog entry: My hangar...
Old Nov 22, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Byron C
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cookci View Post
What do i need to thread the rod?
No need to thread the push-rod when using soldered on "threaded couplers". These fit the original metal push-rod's diameter, and also the DuBro 2-56 ball links. You'll use only one DuBro 2-56 ball link per push-rod since there's already a ball link on one end of the push-rod (if assembled as per build manual inst.)

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXK088&P=7


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