Techone mini Yak-54 setup - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Mar 06, 2012, 06:54 AM
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starscream4002's Avatar
just takes 5 minutes to make a reliable adapter out of heatshrink tubing. for making it lighter you can remove some or all the CF used to re-enforce the tail and cut and add a depron gusset.(just like on the extra300 3D) that should make it lighter quite a bit.
make the aileron pushrods shorter. This will make your plane lighter and will also make it fly better.

For more power, you could order a nine eagles p-47 motor online. On a GWS 5043 it produces 1.6 times more power than the stock setup.

that's about it!

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Mar 06, 2012, 06:56 AM
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starscream4002's Avatar
You could also use less tape!

Mar 06, 2012, 08:14 AM
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I barely used ANY tape!!!!!!!!!

I also want a prop saver. and my dad probably won't let me make the heat shrink adapter but I think the CF is better. I don't want to do too much mods. just enough, really. And also, the motor is kind of stuck in it... it is CA'ed in. I probably won't be getting that out! I just need either A.) 2g more thrust, or B.) 2g less weight, and it should be fine. Do you think the 5x4.3 will give me 2-3g more thrust?
Mar 06, 2012, 12:00 PM
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starscream4002's Avatar
definitely! you'll get much better performance with the 5043 props.

Not much tape?! just look at the rudder joint!

Mar 06, 2012, 04:49 PM
Professional Plane Crasher
Those carbon rods are very light, I can't see replacing any of those with foam saving a significant amount of weight. I didn't think of just using two small pieces of tape for the rudder and elevator, we just did them like they did the ailerons. Not used to building ultra-micros. He hacked some off the end of the wings and rounded the nose a bit more - though I'm not sure why as the entire rudder only weighs 1 gram, so he'd have to cut off a lot more foam to make any difference. Aren't you glad I didn't let you use any hot glue on it?

So starscream - how do you make the adapter from heat shrink? I suppose I could google, but I'm supposed to be working..
Mar 06, 2012, 05:58 PM
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I need this so I can get more power:
and someone told me how to do the heatshrink.... let me find it.

ah, here it is.

"Probably the cheapest(and maybe lightest) method of mounting the 5*4.3 (which i have used) is using layers of heatshrink on the shaft and then slightly sanding it while it's spinning till you can get a snug fit on the prop. I can post pics if you'd like."

-From StarScream

I need that battery and if you can do the heatshrink thing that would be nice.
Mar 06, 2012, 06:45 PM
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Aileron Test/TechOne mini Yak-54 build update part 2.mp4 (1 min 0 sec)

Words for people who can't see YouTube (StarScream, etc.)

Ailerons are set up in a interesting way; the 2, AS2000L servos are up right behind the motor, making the CG a bit forward. It works great; but i wish I had cut the carbon fiber rods for the push rods a bit shorter. The carbon fiber pushrod is CA'ed to the original pushrod for the ailerons on the UMX Extra 300 3D, which I cut the Z-bend off of. I CA'ed it with Super thin CA glue from HobbyTown, (cures in 1-3 sec.!) and then heat-shrinked it, then put a tiny drop of CA on the ends of the heatshrink, to be sure of bond.

It works fine, but like I said, "...I wish I had cut the carbon fiber a bit shorter."
Last edited by BladeScraper; Mar 07, 2012 at 05:07 PM.
Mar 07, 2012, 12:29 PM
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starscream4002's Avatar
you'd better get the 160 mah version. more flight time with little weight gain.

I shrink the heat shrink with a soldering Iron. I forgot to mention, shrink the layers of the heatshrink on a non-threaded shaft smaller than the extra300 shaft (I used 1mm wire) till you get it larger than the 5043 prop's 4mm hole and after taking it off and mounting it on the gearbox shaft, power it up and sand it till you get a tight fit on the 5043 props. if you see vibration, try balancing the prop first

you wouldn't like the forward CG if it's intended for 3D... trust me!

Mar 07, 2012, 02:23 PM
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have you flown it yet?? I just got back from flying my almost wreaked extra 300. I just realised today how much eaiser it is to hover and do 3d with the cg way back. And I mean way back, my battery is placed just above the alieron.

after you have test flown it, you may want to consider placing the aileron servos back on the wing which should save a bit of weight and make the plane much more 3d capable. That's how I plan to set up my techone once I totally wreak my extra 300 beyond repair.
Last edited by airheli1201; Mar 07, 2012 at 02:57 PM.
Mar 07, 2012, 05:07 PM
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I can't fly it because I don't have the rudder and elevator push rods yet. I need to buy new carbon fiber as the stock ones aren't long enough.

Also, I found it is actually easier to hover (at least with my Edge 540) wehnthe CG is where it is recommended or a bit forward. I don't know why, but...

Thats a bit confusing...

How do you do it? Can't you just shrink it onto the shaft a bit bigger than the hub of the prop, then sand it down til it fits? and how will I make sure the prop is completely straight (not crooked) meaning it's facing exactly forward?
Mar 07, 2012, 05:29 PM
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Well, my dad says I can't do the heatshrink thing. But I am going to use the one that the guy recommended on the other forum (Jimsomething?) because also I can take the prop off
Mar 07, 2012, 05:29 PM
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also,,,,,, the 160mah version are ALWAYS out of stock.
Mar 07, 2012, 05:32 PM
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I'll get them when they're back in stock.
Mar 07, 2012, 05:55 PM
Professional Plane Crasher
Well Keith, when you were hovering the unfinished TechOne in your room, where did you have the CG?

-- Sent from my Palm Pre using Forums
Mar 07, 2012, 06:20 PM
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with the E-Flite 150mAh it balanced right behind the AR6400L.

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