For those of you who don't know me my forte' is scratch building scale misfits of aviation. But I just couldn't pass up the chance to get this beautiful misfit. The ECOM PZL Wilga from TBM Models.


For about ten years, I have waited for a chance to own one in ARF form. Sure the Frisch kits and HKM Models are the standard for authenticity, but be prepared for some sticker shock!

First impressions:

The kit is very complete right down to the linkages and pull pull wire. The fuselage is wooden not fiberglass. There are fiberglass parts included such as the cowl and flap hinges. Just enough to give it that scale appearance. The wings are very nicely framed up and the covering is spot on. I could go on and on but just "click" the link to TBM's site and check it out and the video.


My Wilga came today 12/29/11 via the big brown truck from Florida and to my amazement, it was in perfect condition! No broken anything and not a single part missing. Not bad for a trip from one corner of the USA to the other corner of the USA (Washington State).

I will be doing a very small build log since I would rather spend more time in the shop than on my PC so bear with me. I promise I will add all the details of my build as I progress to the first maiden flight.

Oh did I mention that it will be electron powered? Details to follow on power setup and servo's, etc.......

I just sent an email to Callie Graphics for some new graphics such as the markings on the cowl, which are not included in the kit, and several other graphics that I will adorn my Wilga with to separate it from the rest of the pack. I'm funny like that aren't I Brett, Randy, and Lyle I will show you what I have had Callie produce and if you need a set, you can contact her once the final set is completed

Here are the pics of the opening of my kit. Stay tuned for more.

Gluing in the hinge pins on all the flight surfaces tonight.

Power system.

$46.00 Tacon Monster Bigfoot 160 245kv and Castle Phoenix Ice 2 HV80 esc.

Prop will be an APC 20x10 E. Voltage regulator TBD.

Now if you don't think this system is adequate for this plane, better look at post #55....

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...1209903&page=2

Awesome! Will be watching you with this one. This one has been a long time coming for you.

Sweet! I'll be following this one. Thanks for the heads up.

Fred

Originally Posted by tinkrerpilot

Awesome! Will be watching you with this one. This one has been a long time coming for you.

I'd say!

Nice Perry Lad Nice

Servos for flight surfaces will be 6 Savox SC-0252MG Standard Digital Metal Gear Servo

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tal-Gear-Servo

And 1 Savox SC-0251 "Larger Standard" Digital High Torque Metal Gear Servo for the tailwheel.

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...tal-Gear-Servo

Retract statement: There is NO separate servo for the tailwheel. The manual threw me off.

Some progress tonight.

Got all hinges glued in with Gorilla polyurethane glue. If you go this route, make sure you use petroleum jelly on the hinges so the glue does not freeze them up. I like this method better since the urethane expands filling any and all voids. You can then chip off any remaining glue after it has dried and wipe up the jelly with alchohol. Go easy with it though. It expands to 30% of it's original viscosity.
Also painted all control horns white with Krylon.


Re ironed down the covering and did some paint touch up while I wait for more parts to arrive. I am going to replace the tailwheel mount since it is of a laminated metal design and isn't as scale as I would like it to be. Personal preference only. Not a faulty part on the manufacturer.

I'm also going to probably replace the hard 4" foam wheels with 5" Sullivan Sky Lite wheels. Very scale looking and softer. Again, personal preference.

One problem I have discovered so far at this stage, and it is very minor problem is that the end of elevator control horn that mounts to the leading edge of the elevator is a tad bit long making it protrude to the other side of the elevator leading edge. You will have to sand it down a bit. So far that is all. The model fits together very well and looks great!

Tomorrow, weather permitting, pictures outside with me holding it to give a better reference of it's size.

Pretty awesome lookin !

It does look nice! I'm trying to see if my LHS can get it vs. paying shipping

Cheers,
Steve

Perry will build it right! Have fun, Happy New Year! Really looks nice!

I'm laughing here - the photos show you've nicely protected the model with squishy foam supports etc, but the shiny kitchen table? It gets sharp undercarriage legs plonked on top! You must have an understanding wife. Or you have a workshop that looks exactly like a kitchen.


Did I mention - gorgeous plane! A full size flew over our house all day a few years ago and the engine sounded absolutely MONSTROUS! It was actually quite scary when you're used to sweet little Super Cubs puttering overhead.

I'm all ears to see what leccy bits you put in it.

Cheers,
Rog

Originally Posted by Sutton Bank

I'm laughing here - the photos show you've nicely protected the model with squishy foam supports etc, but the shiny kitchen table? It gets sharp undercarriage legs plonked on top! You must have an understanding wife. Or you have a workshop that looks exactly like a kitchen.


Cheers,
Rog

Rog,

Waited for the wife to go to bed before I put the model on the....her table.

No worries though. I was gentle.

As promised, yours truly with Wiggly assembled outside.

Got the cowl mounted today using the tape method. If you don't know this method, you'll learn a new trick.

First, get some low tack tape so as not to lift the covering too much. The type and brand I use is pictured, You can use whatever brand you choose. I like this type because it peels without fuss and doesn't lift the covering.

This took only 20 minutes to do and I got three of the fours screws spot on. The fourth one just needed the hole massaged a bit more.

The bottom holes were a bit tougher so I must confess, I didn't use the tape method on them. Reason? The bottom of the cowl does not sit flush with the lower attachment blocks. There is a gap which causes the tape to fold reducing it's actual length. Thus throwing the measurement off.


So what I did was fasten both top screws tightly so the cowling was snug, then heated a small wire with my torch until it was glowing red and put the wire through the lower attachment block with the T-nut which holds the bottom of the cowl on thus marking the inside of the cowl with a burn mark indicatiing where to drill the bottom holes. Perfecto!

After all holes were drilled, four small fiberglass cloth pieces were then CA'd over the holes to strenghten the area to prevet future cracks. Then I painted the inside of the cowl flat black.

Sometimes pictures speak louder than words. So if you don't understand the shown process, PM me and I'll be happy to explain.


Just a quick note on the cowl installation. Step 57 in the instructions shows fastening of the cowl with two 1.5mm screws on the top and nothing on the bottom. The actual model has four wood blocks attached to the firewall with four T-nuts in place to affix the cowl.