Originally Posted by SU-4ever

Nah, forget about those struts, you need oleo - trailing link struts that better absorb vibration. I had the same issue taking off from grass. Part of the trick was just wait for the grass to dry on summer but a trailing link will help better absorb the vibration.

Some of us we've used the struts of the Freewing Eurofighter and you can buy them spare, just don't remember where.


Now I have to tell you that I'm very excited with this late video of the Su-35.
There's a bunch of post-stall maneuvers that can be seen clearly against a cloudy sky, featuring slow motions and on-board camera!

https://vimeo.com/45770626


The model in the vid uses Eurofighter struts.

Cheers!
Jandro.

Really enjoyed that vid Jandro. Hopefully mine will arrive tomorrow.

I changed my mind on the Landers..... So now I have two newer ideas....
I will use a pair of ExtremeRC Alloy housings with HET2W30 (2200kv).
Mounting the Landers is a nuisance and means no going back to any other 'normal' fan housing, if I ever wanted to. The ERC housing I can mount straight in.

The pic has a Wemo lip, but I have the much smaller Freewing lip on it now, so that it can all just drop in.
The Lander motor and HET are very similar ability overall, and the 2W30 is 2200kv which is good for CS10 use and 2.0Kg Thrust @ 63A. That is a lot of power to be using.... for whatever max output it will give in-plane.... but you don't HAVE to use it. LOL.

I will bench test a power "ladder" of throttle percentage to thrust output, and then note a few useful higher end points, so I have an option to limit input/output power by mixing throttle limits to flight modes. eg Only allow 100% for FM2 - full 'everything' mode. And say, 90% (or whatever) for FM0 and FM1.
That way I can generally fly at Thrust X maximum and thus a lower Amp draw (eg 55A area), but crank it up in FM2 if I really want to cane it. Using a mix means it is easier to fly to a lower limit, than trying to get the throttle stick exactly "right".
Hmmm... actually, I can use a spare switch just for that power toggle use.

The second idea is to use the same ERC housing, but with Lander 2550kv motors driving the Lander fans in it. This is 2.0Kg thrust for only 52Amps!! And the 'half way' sound result (compared to CS10 sound).
I guess this one is more sensible....

Another thing to try is the HET's driving the Lander fans, but at 2200kv that might struggle to get 1.8Kg each. And at the lower RPM the sound would be heading to be what the stock fans have, almost. But the Alloy rigidity should help it sound somewhat better.
It would be even lower amps then the Lander 2550kvs and a very easy life for the HET's!! I have not bench tested that combo idea ever.
Or.... stock FW rotors with the Landers (FW is 6 blade, versus Lander 5 blade)..... or FW rotors with the HET, which would be a better suited pairing.

The Lander and HET motors are quite a bit more powerful than the FW Gold motors, so at whatever KV they are they will drive the fan to higher RPM, as they can drive the load easier.
eg On the stock 6 blade rotor a 2200kv HET will do more RPM that the FW gold motor can with 2300kv.

I guess all I know definite right now is the ERC Alloy housings..... and a handful of possible motor/rotor combinations....
But I want it flying next weekend, so whatever suits that first.......!

Hi there,

Originally Posted by Goregonzola

It's pretty much impossible to accelerate to flying speed now on the grass but if you do happen to get airborne it works great for landings as the aircraft auto-brakes!

You can hand-launch the Su-35 relatively easily, and then use the gears only for landing. I did this several times before the front gear broke again, resulting in me removing the gear altogether.

Cheers,
Henrik

Stand it on its end..... balance it lightly by hand..... hit WOT.....
Well, I expect that should work. LOL.

ok guys last question before maiden, do you guys run these standard servos on 6 volt or 4.8 volt , as there is no specs for the standard servos anywhere running them at 6v may be a problem.

Originally Posted by richardaa

ok guys last question before maiden, do you guys run these standard servos on 6 volt or 4.8 volt , as there is no specs for the standard servos anywhere running them at 6v may be a problem.

I've run all my Freewing at 6V. It's a good way of minimizing brown outs.Once active the volts drop to 5.8V or so.

Originally Posted by SU-4ever

Now I have to tell you that I'm very excited with this late video of the Su-35.
There's a bunch of post-stall maneuvers that can be seen clearly against a cloudy sky, featuring slow motions and on-board camera!

https://vimeo.com/45770626

The model in the vid uses Eurofighter struts.

Cheers!
Jandro.

Excellent video Jandro. That is a nice recovery from your flatspins there. I do my flatspins a lot more violently but my recoveries are nowhere near as nice looking as yours - I always dip the nose and gain airspeed before leveling off.

I did some onboard videos a while back, I'll post them up since people seem to like those.

Regarding 4.8V vs 6V - in all my time in this hobby, this whole aspect of setup has eluded me. I've never knowingly run a system on 6V. I realize servos will have more torque and be faster, but I don't know what is the trade off. Why aren't all models at 6V by default? Is it less safe? Is a BEC absolutely necessary when moving up to 6V? does it put more strain on your battery? Is there a good guide on this particular subject somewhere?

Originally Posted by tmsn

Regarding 4.8V vs 6V - in all my time in this hobby, this whole aspect of setup has eluded me. I've never knowingly run a system on 6V. I realize servos will have more torque and be faster, but I don't know what is the trade off. Why aren't all models at 6V by default? Is it less safe? Is a BEC absolutely necessary when moving up to 6V? does it put more strain on your battery? Is there a good guide on this particular subject somewhere?

Ah.. Ah...
Its the servo technology that has changed which it still is at this point... the new 7.2V servos for e.g.

So originally it was 4.8 now its 6 and moving to 7.2V. Harder on which battery. If you are using a 6V battery its not harder... its how it works. However, the higher the voltage usually the more resilient the battery as in additional cells....

The external BEC or a external battery source is just safety assurance at the expense of weight. Not a must but reports of internal becs at 5amp not having enough juice to drive several servos keeps popping up so some believe in the added assurance. The choice of RX can also be a concern because they have different brown out points and in the rear times that you're starting to get low on juice, gear down and wiggling everything to get back to the field you can experience a brown out. In fact most Rx's are made to take about 9V+.

Either way the quick and easy is up the voltage and amps to be further away from the brown out threshhold.

I actually use LiFe batteries that work at 6.6V. When they are under load they drop within the average servos operational range. So since I haven't had a burnout with the FW servos from voltage, in answer to his question ya they work on 6V.

Anyone know where I can purchase a replacement fan blade set in the USA?. My order is still in the (&*^(*& customs facility in New York. Amazing.... two days from order placement to arriving in US Customs from China. Three weeks in customs and still no sign. I want to maiden this puppy.

Originally Posted by Maxthrottle

Ah.. Ah...
Its the servo technology that has changed which it still is at this point... the new 7.2V servos for e.g.

So originally it was 4.8 now its 6 and moving to 7.2V. Harder on which battery. If you are using a 6V battery its not harder... its how it works. However, the higher the voltage usually the more resilient the battery as in additional cells....

The external BEC or a external battery source is just safety assurance at the expense of weight. Not a must but reports of internal becs at 5amp not having enough juice to drive several servos keeps popping up so some believe in the added assurance. The choice of RX can also be a concern because they have different brown out points and in the rear times that you're starting to get low on juice, gear down and wiggling everything to get back to the field you can experience a brown out. In fact most Rx's are made to take about 9V+.

Either way the quick and easy is up the voltage and amps to be further away from the brown out threshhold.

I actually use LiFe batteries that work at 6.6V. When they are under load they drop within the average servos operational range. So since I haven't had a burnout with the FW servos from voltage, in answer to his question ya they work on 6V.

I'm sorry I am little dense for the deeper electrical stuff

So, essentially I could simply try and program my ESC to output 6V and I'm done?

Yes... in this case (Su).
There are still a fair amount of 'cheaper' models/PNF etc that have servos that can't cope with 6v.
From the few I have encountered you tend to have the servo(s) go a bit nutso when you power up the RC. Mad jittering. So that seems to be a clue. But technically it is likely they are quite "unhappy" with the over-voltage in that case, so get the power off as soon as you see that happen in any that you find. Try again at 5V (4.8V) and if it does not go mad then, that is a very good sign it can't cope with 6V.
I guess it is even better if you could get the specs, or definite information, but often you can't.

Originally Posted by dro56595@bigpo

Really enjoyed that vid Jandro. Hopefully mine will arrive tomorrow.

Originally Posted by tmsn

Excellent video Jandro. That is a nice recovery from your flatspins there. I do my flatspins a lot more violently but my recoveries are nowhere near as nice looking as yours - I always dip the nose and gain airspeed before leveling off.

I did some onboard videos a while back, I'll post them up since people seem to like those.

Thanks for the kind feedback ^^ Have another vid ready to upload...

I use the HK HD $37 Wingcam for the aerial records.
I just found the ideal spot to set the cam easily, and that is passing a band of masking tape under the ducted fan hatch's securing device, screwing it back and finally covering the cam with the tape, then add some more on the front to avoid the camera twisting due to aerodynamic forces and that's it.

To recover from flatspins like in the video I just keep pulling up with tailerons and TV but stop using rudder, then it halts to a stop and starts gaining speed. Anyway I quickly lower pressure on the back after the first "defiant" nose up attitude just in case the plane wanted to stall.

Cheers, and keep vids coming!

thanks all for your advise invaluable in my opinion. decided on the savox sh o255 for the elevators they give out 3.9kgs at 6 volt so should be heaps and leave the stock aileron servos for now as feel really nice. also do you guys have a reasonable amount of play in the tv ball and sockets ? feels a little disconcerting but cant go anywhere. keep up the good work.

I did a flat spin for the first time this morning but when I tried again I let it get too low and it crash landed. Looks repairable. Fortunately the landing gear still works since they were retracted at the time of the crash and I also have plenty of spare parts from the other crashed SU-35.