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Jul 14, 2012, 03:50 AM
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tmsn's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
I broke my Su.... fairly badly....
Sorry to hear about your crash, but don't feel too bad, you'll get this fixed in no time. This looks a lot less violent than my crash and I rebuilt mine in a day and flies just as good as before.
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Jul 14, 2012, 02:42 PM
Registered User
One question,who run the stockmotor with original fanhousing but with wemotec minifan rotor?
i guess is a cheap but good tuning for the su 35.

i do the same with my freewing eurofighter and the jet works much more better!

cheers,björn
Jul 14, 2012, 06:13 PM
https://youtube.com/RC4ever
SU-4ever's Avatar
Today put 4 more flights (27 so far) and I was able to get some aerial footage with on-board & ground camera, will post the results soon ^^
Jul 14, 2012, 06:38 PM
"LiPo-Blaster"
RugFlyer's Avatar
Just thought I'd share.
I replaced the sloppy stock Freewing E-Retracts with these from PW-RC.
"Regular size common servoless retract--4 mm hole Metal trunnions" http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.ph...p92lcbfercohm0

These have 4mm Metal trunnions so they fit the SU-35 gear legs perfectly with no slop and close tight in both open & closed positions! They're rated at 2.5kg load but look & feel more solid than the Loosey-Goosey ones that come with the SU-35 so they should hold up well.
Last edited by RugFlyer; Jul 14, 2012 at 07:38 PM.
Jul 14, 2012, 06:39 PM
Where did that tree come from?
urrl's Avatar
Today I was involved getting my BAe Hawk to work; The intake ducts were collapsing due to suction from the fan and the landing gear were squirrelly. I didn't maiden but I managed to get in two flights with the SU-35. A landing gear failed to deploy but no damage on landing. Not sure of the cause.
Jul 14, 2012, 06:39 PM
Registered User
Hey guys, very close to maiden now, i have carried out many of the mods mentioned in previous threads, including all steel clevises, epoxy under rear uprights,hinged raydome and various other mods. I found some closed cell foam rubber that i have inserted into the front retract guide that works a treat for countering the slop in the front retract, just enough not to bind and flexes nicely.
problems so far.
1 1 rear retract doa , pulled it apart found broken - wire to curcuit board, very fine wire , i took it to a friend of mine who works in electronics he did it for me , now works all good.
2 the same retract when reassebled has the oleo out of line on the flats so the wheel sticks out about 5 mm !!! on closer inspection the oleo grub screws had been tapped on an angle so had to file in new flats to line it up.could explain the tyres dismounting in previous posts.
3 all front oleo fittings loose and about to fall apart, easy fix a little locktight and realignment.
also ballanced the fans 1 was flawless the other 1 not so good but all fine now.
went a bit overboard with the bec , i bought a western robotics 10 amp mini bec $125 delivered to nz !!!.
so final question SERVOS !! elevators are a little steppy but do not flutter and center well, pulled them apart and wiring soldering looks good.
aileron servos feel real good with no issues.
So my question is this do i trust these servos or change them out.
If i use the d-mg 16 servos for the elevators as mentioned i asume i will have to reverse one of them, can the wiring at the plug be swapped over or do i need a servo reversing lead ? .
also what about the aileron servos , anyone flying the stock ones without issues ?
lastly what would be a good replacement aileron servo replacement ?
Awesome plane and great info on this thread thanks to everyone .
Jul 14, 2012, 08:55 PM
You are a "go" for reentry
Maxthrottle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RugFlyer View Post
...4 mm hole Metal trunnions[/I]" http://www.pw-rc.com/product_info.ph...p92lcbfercohm0....
These have been discussed. They are great as you describe but one issue is the mount for the top bottom plate. It sticks out on the side so it doesn't slide into the SU-35 retract mount boxes without grinding those out. No big deal but its just another step.
Jul 14, 2012, 09:09 PM
You are a "go" for reentry
Maxthrottle's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by richardaa View Post
..... i asume i will have to reverse one of them, can the wiring at the plug be swapped over or do i need a servo reversing lead ? .
also what about the aileron servos , anyone flying the stock ones without issues ?
lastly what would be a good replacement aileron servo replacement ?
....
The stabs are on a Y so one side would have to be reversed or you could individual lines if you have the channels.
To reverse a servo you have to do it internally, which there are videos, or use a reverser.
Aileron servos? well there has been plenty of video demonstrating them working fine. If you find them to be faulty, most other 9g will work but they may not fit the mount box. the HS65 work fine.
Jul 14, 2012, 10:11 PM
Registered User
Hey guys what about these for aileron servo replacement, anybody using them.
https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...g_0_10sec.html
Jul 15, 2012, 01:42 AM
Registered User
Hi.
I have more then 20 of them in several edf planes. They work fine, trust them.
Takis
Jul 15, 2012, 04:57 AM
Where did that tree come from?
urrl's Avatar
I use a dab of oil on the wheel axles ever since a wheel froze on landing. Till then all the wheels were totally free spinning so not sure why one froze. I'll be off to maiden the BAe Hawk and fly the SU-35 early this morning.
Jul 15, 2012, 05:04 AM
Registered User
Hi All.

Firstly an apology if this has been covered here. I have been following the thread for some while and cannot find the info I need.

I have 37 flights on my SU-35 and love every minute of this model. I have encountered many of the problems mentioned here by others including stock servo wires needing resoldering, servo flutter and stock landing gear problems.

Unfortunately I am limited to grass operations with this model and it is pretty rough on the stock gear. The main problem is the main wheels 'toe out' badly causing a lot of resistance on the wheels as they contact the strut. It's pretty much impossible to accelerate to flying speed now on the grass but if you do happen to get airborne it works great for landings as the aircraft auto-brakes!

The servos are working fine as is the nosewheel gear but I would really like to find and alternative main gear struts and saw these,

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...Class_1pc.html

I realise they have no shock absorbing so this may be not a good choice for a model this size. Comments are welcome.

I have read about the eurofighter gear mod but was led to believe the trailing edge shocks cause 'toeing out' as well.

So in essence can anybody recommend some good straight struts that will fit the stock servos?

Thanks.
Jul 15, 2012, 05:15 AM
https://youtube.com/RC4ever
SU-4ever's Avatar
Nah, forget about those struts, you need oleo - trailing link struts that better absorb vibration. I had the same issue taking off from grass. Part of the trick was just wait for the grass to dry on summer but a trailing link will help better absorb the vibration.

Some of us we've used the struts of the Freewing Eurofighter and you can buy them spare, just don't remember where.


Now I have to tell you that I'm very excited with this late video of the Su-35.
There's a bunch of post-stall maneuvers that can be seen clearly against a cloudy sky, featuring slow motions and on-board camera!

EPIC Su-35 flight (10 min 39 sec)


The model in the vid uses Eurofighter struts.

Cheers!
Jandro.
Last edited by SU-4ever; Jul 15, 2012 at 05:33 AM.
Jul 15, 2012, 07:24 AM
Registered User
Goregonzola, I listed some better HobbyKing ones a page or few back. A type with trailing links.
"Vertical" compression struts are never that great on grass - best for hard surfaces.
I was going to measure mine to check against thiose HK ones, but didn't get around to it. They will be close and pretty certainly usable, even if they need a bit of modding (length) to fit.
Jul 15, 2012, 07:25 AM
Registered User
TMSN, looks like both outs snapped the nose in the exact same way. Right up[ to the way it is 'staggered' from side to side. I guess that is the path of the weakest points up front there.
But it makes for a good interlocking joint, to repair easily and strong! LOL


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