Bob,

I really doubt the covering added much weight at all.
It's pretty thin stuff.

Waiting on better weather to throw it for the first time.

Hello swissboy from RCbobcat55-aka Bob M.. I am glad you like the finish on the wing. I get a lot of practice building and repairing furniture. I am working on a flapperon wing now and will get some pics up when it is done. I got sidetracked restoring a set of plans for a 60 plus year old model which a friend of mine had in his stash. I think we will be laser cutting a limited run of them to put up for sale. Also, the 2 oz glass cloth should really look good on the pod and beef it up a bit too. I am experimenting with a new product called styrospray which is some kind of water based acrylic which gets applied directly to foam and looks really nice. I may try cutting out a foam pod and coating it with this product to see how well it works. I will keep everyone posted. I have 2 kits left out of the 14 I boxed up and will soon be ordering 6 more sets of parts. Good Lift Bob M. Keep the orders coming.

Does anybody have any ideas on using rechargeable CR2 batteries. I think as long as I get the 3v type and knowing what I know about electronic tolerances I should be ok. Also any thought or ideas on micro-servo mounts?

Somewhere there is a whole thread on CR2 (camera) battery usage.

Thanks I'll check it out

Originally Posted by OldVic56

Does anybody have any ideas on using rechargeable CR2 batteries. I think as long as I get the 3v type and knowing what I know about electronic tolerances I should be ok. Also any thought or ideas on micro-servo mounts?

From what i've fished around so far... I think they're gonna be too light, oddly enough. Sounds like the dynomite needs more nose weight. I am going to get a couple just to try it anyway. I don't really want to buy a pack.

They are around 11g each. Maybe a 3 cell pack would bring it up to 33g hooked up in series-parrell will keep it at at 6v also I am looking into using non rechargeable to try out at first.

Ok, Wgeffon's battery is about 42g, so it may not be that off. a titch of lead may be worth it for not having to charge...

Can someone post a pic of how you have your tail pushrods set up? Not sure where to route the elevator rod... the rudder is literally straight forward tho.

Almost done, just have to glue the tail, work out a hatch, and install the electronics.

This should help
https://static.rcgroups.net/forums/a...1-IMG_0008.JPG

Not really. I have the rods going through those like you did, but how do you route it down for the elevator control horn?

Everything should already be lined up. No need to route the wire anywhere. Its a straight shot to the control horn.

I'm curious about the horizontal tail mount used on this kit. Seems like a simple pylon mount would have considerably less drag than the two exposed bulkheads used here. Is there an advantage to this design?

It'd be sleeker, but these provide more lateral strength...

Hello out there from RCbobcat55. I have 6 more kits ready to ship so if anyone wants to order one They are here. I am presently working on a replica kit of an early 1950's sport model called the Buzzer'D. It has a 72" wing span and is perfect for electric conversion. The parts are in process with my laser cutter and I have to rework the plans a bit to show the electric installation. The receiver (1 channel) shown on the plans required 6 d cells for the tube and the escapements with the receiver weighed about 16 ounces! I flew with a receiver like that back in the late 1950's with my dad and we had some success but basically it was interrupted free flight. Just think today we have 6 channel radios weighing 1 oz or less with servos and batteries. Anyways I am anxious to see how the other Dyne-O-Mite dlgs are coming along.Thanks Bob M. The kits are still $90.00 shipped.