New Dyne-O-Mite 1M DLG - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Feb 03, 2012, 08:07 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar
Some pics of mine as of right now.

I always like to install everything as early as possible in any build so I started laying out the servo locations and made up the front ends of the push rods.
This should work out good.
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Feb 04, 2012, 09:49 AM
Did I do that?
I feel kinda silly now. I'm not even gonna tell anybody how I thought the rear wing mount went it
Feb 04, 2012, 01:32 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar
I started laying out the tail.
Mainly getting the pushrods to the surfaces sorted out. I drilled holes in each Stab Mount to allow the rods to pass through.
I spaced the stab mount onto the boom using the tail surfaces as a reference to where they needed to be.
The Stab mount has been glued to the Boom and everything else is just fitted in place with no glue yet.
Feb 04, 2012, 07:44 PM
sailplane nut
Looks great Wayne. Future kits will have the holes drilled in the stab mounts and also in F4 for the rods to pass thru. Are you using pieces of small dia paper clips for your z bends? they work great and if you use heatshrink over them you can fine tune your neutral points then use a drop of thick Ca to secure them permanently. Talk to you later Bob M.
Feb 04, 2012, 09:10 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar

Here are the pics of F4 and some more of the overall progress on my plane.
To answer your questions..

* Im not using paper clips for Z bends. They would be a little too thick for the servo arm hole. I am using some small music wire that fits the hole exactly. The servo ends of the push rods are all glued up and when I final assemble the plane the surface ends will be done as you described to set centers.

* As I said in my PM, my locations for the holes in F4 are ok. If you were to cut these holes for your kits move them down a little and a tad closer to the boom than what you see here.

*Servos are the new Eflite 3.5g servos

I got the wing mounted to the pod by drilling the dowel location in the LE and Installed the hard point for the rear bolt.
The kit has you use a wooden dowel for the rear hard point and then drill through it for the bolt to pass through.
Not trusting myself to be that accurate, I used a larger hard point. (square)

Everything is working out good with this kit.
Should be Ready to Cover in the next day or so.
Feb 05, 2012, 01:14 AM
No, you can't fly it.
SwissBoy's Avatar
What's an appropriate lipo to use? I have a voltage regulator...
Feb 05, 2012, 10:18 AM
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wgeffon's Avatar
Originally Posted by SwissBoy
What's an appropriate lipo to use? I have a voltage regulator...
I am using a 2S 800 Lipo.
Your going to need nose weight so, use as much battery as you can fit in there.
No regulator. I know, I know... You cant do that, its impossible, it will never work.
Ive done it for years and have never had an issue.

I decided I didn't want to have to access the inside of the Pod every time I wanted to turn the plane on or off so I installed a Switch jack on the side of the fuse.
Pull the plug and the plane is on, push it in and its off and you can charge from the pig tail.

I finished installing the rest of the electronics which was no big deal.

Looking at the top piece for the pod I could see that the removable piece was not going to bend that well to conform with the shape of the top of the Pod because the grain is going long ways.
I decided to make a new piece that had the grain going across it that would allow for a much easier bend.

Once the piece was cut I sprayed it with Windex and pinned it to the fuse. It dried with the correct bend in the wood.
Feb 05, 2012, 12:23 PM
No, you can't fly it.
SwissBoy's Avatar
Haha, wow that's a big battery in there. About how much does the batt need to weigh for balance?
Feb 05, 2012, 12:29 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar
I'm not sure since I don't have a specific CG point from Bob yet.
I can tell though, it needs more nose weight than this just by picking the plane up with everything attached.
I am holding off on gluing the nose block on until I have a CG point to shoot for. I want to hollow out the nose block and add the remaining weight in there.
Feb 06, 2012, 08:53 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar
Today I glued on the vertical fin and got the peg mounted in the wing tip.

I notched the rear part of the cut in the fin so the boom would slide in and not be butt glued to that joint.
Once the fin was glued on I glassed both sides of the fin to boom joint.

For the peg I wanted to be sure it was never going to get loose or rip out.
I decided to inlay a piece of hardwood. That piece has the hole for the peg and its glued into a cut out I made in the wing tip.
I also didnt want the angle of the peg to be at 90 degrees to the tip panel so I drilled the hardwood at an angle to get the peg close to 90 degrees to the center panel.
This will help with straighter launches because the plane will remain flatter throughout the discuss launch.

After the peg was secure in the hardwood and the hardwood piece was glues into the wing tip I
overlayed some CF cloth on top and bottom.
The peg is extremely secure in the wing tip and should never come loose or rip out.
Feb 07, 2012, 01:10 PM
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wgeffon's Avatar
Mine is ready to cover.
Feb 07, 2012, 01:40 PM
Laser Cutter Guy
Looks good! What are you planning on using for hinges? If I ever get around to finishing mine I was going to use cut up floppy disc material.
Feb 07, 2012, 01:50 PM
Registered User
wgeffon's Avatar
I'm going to use Blenderm tape on the non beveled sides of the surfaces.
Super simple, strong and way less work than trying to cut slots. Especially in these thin surfaces.
Feb 09, 2012, 04:38 PM
No, you can't fly it.
SwissBoy's Avatar
Should be getting mine tomorrow from rcbobcat.. looking forward to getting started on the build.

Two questions. First, what width blenderm is good for most hinges? Found 1/2" pretty cheap on amazon:
Second, what epoxy or resin did you use for the wing joints? I'm also finishing the fuse with 2oz glass, and will probably use a water based poly for that.

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