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Jan 11, 2012, 06:03 PM
I eat glue
I'm afraid if you want super scale looking finishes you will not be flying these kind of realistic flying lightweights. A really scale finish can add a lot of weight, besides the only time you really appreciate those supe realistic finishes is when the plane is sitting on the table, in the air you ain't gonna notice it! I prefer faux finishes on these like my freeflighters, I think it also gives them more of a creative, artistic quality too.
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Jan 12, 2012, 03:17 AM
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Jeanskydive's Avatar

Luscombe Silvair


Hi Pat , nice aircraft there , rare in model also ,you did a nice work, I fly the Silvaire 8E in skis also , I watch our building. Cheers
Last edited by Jeanskydive; Jan 12, 2012 at 03:44 PM.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:28 AM
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Building up the Tail section


Went with an airfoiled tail section this time around. Shims are used on the LE & TE to keep things centered during construction, then the airfoil sanded in once the parts are lifted from the board.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:37 AM
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Framing the Wings


The basic structure is of the "egg Crate" style of construction, so it goes to gether quickly. Where the Luscombe wing differs from most is at the tip. To prevent the dreaded tip stal, the tip is washed out, and the last rib out is undercambered. The angles up to the outermost rib is built into the spars, so by building the wing flat on the board, the tip shape takes care of itself. Then to keep from breaking the spars during construction a Washout Jig will be provided. You'll see how it works in a minute.

Meanwhile, construction begins with laying out all of the cut parts over the plan....
Jan 15, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Adding the Aileron


The ailerons are built into the wing. Because the spar angles break at the aileron's mid-span, the trailing edge is cur and angled up to the outboard end rib. Note the Washout Jig under the tip rib in the first two photos....
Jan 15, 2012, 08:46 AM
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Building the Second Panel


The second wing panel was built the same as the first. The blue foam tip blocks were glued in place anf the wing panels detail sanded to shape. Once all that was done, the servos wires were extended and the E-Flite DS-35 servos glued in place with a gob od silicone.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:50 AM
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Fitting the Tail Section


Balsa fill was added to the fuselage top so there would be sufficient glue surface to keep the vertical tail in place. Scrap 1/16 balsa was used to fill the area between the centerline stringer and the next one out.
Jan 15, 2012, 08:55 AM
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Setting Up the Lift Struts


When it came time to set up the struts something just didn't look right, so I went back and double checked the 3-views to find that the lift strut hard points on the wings were in the wrong place. The new mounts were added -- and the drawings corrected -- and then the struts were built up and slipped in place.
Jan 15, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Mounting the Motor and adding the Cabanes


The plans are shown with the E-Flite Park 400 motor and the mount set up accordingly. But, the p-type is coming out lighter then expected, and there was just something about the 400 that didn't look right, so I went with the E-Flite 370. Both motors use the same X-mount, but 1/4" spacer tubes were needed to put the prop adapter in the proper location.

Once the motor and ESC were in place the cowl was re-mounted and the cabane struts added at the cabin. At this point the only thing left to do is run in the rudder cables and mark the exit points from the fuselage -- then its time to cover.

PAT
Jan 15, 2012, 10:55 AM
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I covered my pride and joy C-140 with chrome Monokote and scrubbed it with dry green Scotchbrite in horizontal and vertical directions to simulate aluminum skin. Chrome Monokote takes more heat to apply and does not shrink as well as other Monokote colors. It did not tend to warp delicate structure like other Monokote probably because of low shrink rate. Getting wrinkles to disappear in tail feathers is tricky. You have to use enough heat with the heat gun to shrink it without loosening the bond with the edge of the vertical stab, etc. In order to get it to shrink, temperature from heat gun must be close to melting point. i.e. Oops! make a hole and patch it or remove covering and recover. Easiest is to use light weight silver Coverite Microlite. I used that on the wings as the early 140's had silver painted "rag" wings.

PS: It would be best to scrub the Monokote with Scotchbrite in vertical and horizontal directions before applying to model, that prevents the covered stringers from being dulled more than adjacent covering. My model has fuselage nose area back inlayed with 1/6" balsa.
Last edited by E-Challenged; Jan 15, 2012 at 11:14 AM.
Jan 18, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Covering the Luscombe Begins with the Flying Surfaces


Covering began with the landing gear and struts, then moved onto the wings and tail section. All straight forward stuff at this point....
Jan 18, 2012, 09:33 AM
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The Fuselage, ont the Other Hand.....


The fuselage was covered starting at the back and moving forward. The tail cone was covered with 1 piece on each side of center. Then moving forward the rest was done in patchwork a bay at a time. It actually turned out to be easier then originally anticipated.

Once the cover was on, the winshield pattern was worked up, the outline of the IP hood marked up, and the cockpit painted. Looks like now it's down to final assembly. I did get the graphics ordered from Callie yesterday, so it looks like if all goes well she'll be in the air next week.

PAT
Jan 19, 2012, 11:13 AM
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Luscombe Silvair


Look good.........Pat
Jan 19, 2012, 12:37 PM
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Very Nice Pat. I was curious how many pieces it was going to take to cover that fuse correctly. You did a nice job. Boy, am I wanting to build one of these sweeties.
Jan 19, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Making the Luscombe Ready To Fly


Got the cowl painted using Tester Saphire for the nose bowl, then masked and shot the Model Master Aluminum.

Once all that had dried, the radio was set up and final assembly completed to ready the model for test flights. The Graphics are on their way, and will finish it up when they arive.


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