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Old Jan 06, 2012, 04:20 PM
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Dance the skies...
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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
The MCPx uses a 250mAH cell rated at 25C and I probably use about half the capacity on any given flight without the camera. I fly for four minutes and I think that is about 50% of the total battery capacity. I have flown to 6 minutes before without hitting LVC. I'm sure the cell can handle the added current from the camera without impacting my 4 minute flights.
...
Paul
I was more concerned with the voltage drop caused by adding another significant load. The camera when recording likely draws around 250 mA to 300 mA (going from memory here from my #11 camera thread). Probably not too different from powering two of the heli motors from the same battery? The 25C pack might handle the heli head speed with a higher throttle setting needed to boost the voltage, but the camera will stop recording when the supplied voltage drops to about 3.7V... way above a normal lipo LVC cutoff down around 3V. So you might get a 4 min flight with only 2 min. of video, for example. It would be an interesting experiment.
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Old Jan 06, 2012, 04:24 PM
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OK, I didn't realize the camera would shut off at such a high voltage. In that case, I fear you are correct and the heli would cause the camera to either shut off or get intermittent under hover loads. I might try it some time, though. Maybe with my POS 808 #1 camera.

Paul
Old Jan 06, 2012, 05:35 PM
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instead of auto white balance why not use some preset ones like sunny, overcast, snow, etc to stop the color shifting?

if you shoot a full video with the wrong WB you can easily fix it on post processing but when it's constantly changing it becomes impossible...
Old Jan 06, 2012, 05:46 PM
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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
I was suing a Kensington 8GB class 10 card. It seemed to work equally well with the 2GB Sandisk (unmarked class rating, assumed 1 or 2) from my cellphone.

Paul
Thank you.

I have a Kingston 4g class 4, that will get a try when the cam gets here.
-----------------------



Any thoughts about the Transcend - 4GB Class 6 or 8GB Class 6 cards?

Looking to pick one up before the cam gets here and want to be sure that brand card will work with the cam without any issues.

The test with two cards Kingston and Transcend,.....https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=718 showed both cameras cutting out (corrupt files) at the same time.
Does that test now eliminate the memory card as a cause of the corrupt files,meaning it would be alright to use either brand in the #16 (Kingston or Transcend)...or is more testing needed to determine if one brand or the other could be a cause?




Ridgewalker
Old Jan 06, 2012, 06:21 PM
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Thank you.

I have a Kingston 4g class 4, that will get a try when the cam gets here.
-----------------------



Any thoughts about the Transcend - 4GB Class 6 or 8GB Class 6 cards?

Looking to pick one up before the cam gets here and want to be sure that brand card will work with the cam without any issues.

The test with two cards Kingston and Transcend,.....https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=718 showed both cameras cutting out (corrupt files) at the same time.
Does that test now eliminate the memory card as a cause of the corrupt files,meaning it would be alright to use either brand in the #16 (Kingston or Transcend)...or is more testing needed to determine if one brand or the other could be a cause?

Ridgewalker
My personal opinion is the brand of card is not the cause since there have been corrupt files recorded on Transcend, Kingston, Kensington, Patriot, and Sandisk (maybe I missed one or two), and speed class doesn't seem to make much difference from what I've seen here (CL2 to CL10 cards have all written corrupt files).

What I don't know is if all these tests were done with the card formatted first with the in-camera formatting routine. I know some have, but not sure about others. Some were done with SDFormatter, too, and those also got corrupt files, the developer wants any further tests to be done after formatting with the in-camera formatter, with photos taken with the camera's built-in photo mode, if possible. This requires stopping the recording before toggling to photo mode to sanp a picture.

But it's so easy to replicate here, with all these different cards, the developer should be able to also replicate it there, as long as sudden light intensities are used to trigger it. Sudden panning from ground to bright sky can do, and even pointing the camera at the sky (doesn't have to be pointing at the sun) and covering the lenw with a finger, then remove it, cover it, remove it has triggered the corruption.
Old Jan 06, 2012, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by rcall View Post
instead of auto white balance why not use some preset ones like sunny, overcast, snow, etc to stop the color shifting?

if you shoot a full video with the wrong WB you can easily fix it on post processing but when it's constantly changing it becomes impossible...
There's not enough memory in the camera to hold all the settings. Plus, the unofficial BETA firmware you don't have works extremely well in stabilizing the white balance (there's a few clips posted here that show this). The only changes you see are mostly exposure changes as the light level changes.
Old Jan 06, 2012, 10:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Frank View Post
My personal opinion is the brand of card is not the cause since there have been corrupt files recorded on Transcend, Kingston, Kensington, Patriot, and Sandisk (maybe I missed one or two), and speed class doesn't seem to make much difference from what I've seen here (CL2 to CL10 cards have all written corrupt files).

What I don't know is if all these tests were done with the card formatted first with the in-camera formatting routine. I know some have, but not sure about others. Some were done with SDFormatter, too, and those also got corrupt files, the developer wants any further tests to be done after formatting with the in-camera formatter, with photos taken with the camera's built-in photo mode, if possible. This requires stopping the recording before toggling to photo mode to sanp a picture.

But it's so easy to replicate here, with all these different cards, the developer should be able to also replicate it there, as long as sudden light intensities are used to trigger it. Sudden panning from ground to bright sky can do, and even pointing the camera at the sky (doesn't have to be pointing at the sun) and covering the lenw with a finger, then remove it, cover it, remove it has triggered the corruption.
Thank you Tom.

If you connect the cam to the pc in web cam mode (no memory card) and capture the video are you able to get the corrupt file to occur?

I understand the cam in web cam mode would be an indoor test...
Maybe pointing the cam at a bright light in the house and do the finger over the lens hole as was done outside.

If the corrupt file occurs while capturing video in web cam mode would that tell you the memory card is not the cause?


Ridgewalker
Last edited by ridgewalker; Jan 06, 2012 at 11:32 PM.
Old Jan 07, 2012, 12:07 AM
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Originally Posted by ridgewalker View Post
Thank you Tom.

If you connect the cam to the pc in web cam mode (no memory card) and capture the video are you able to get the corrupt file to occur?

I understand the cam in web cam mode would be an indoor test...
Maybe pointing the cam at a bright light in the house and do the finger over the lens hole as was done outside.

If the corrupt file occurs while capturing video in web cam mode would that tell you the memory card is not the cause?


Ridgewalker
Hmmm... hadn't though of trying that, but it's not going to be the same because in webcam mode, even though I can set a 1280x720 frame size with this camera, it uses the MJPG video codec in it's video output stream and not the H.264 codec. The MJPG is faster even though the data rate is higher for equal quality. But, it's worth trying just to see what happens, if anything. All I need is some sun for a fair test.
Old Jan 07, 2012, 01:50 AM
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I agree - my #16 is 17.7 grams ready to go, and the MCPx is only about 45 grams.

I actually picked up a 120SR (AUW 106 grams) today, to use my keyfobs on. With the canopy removed the battery makes a perfect camera platform - I'm just going to band it on top:

Geee . . . What a nice Ultra-light setup. That looks super cool ! Well taught of. Gona get me one too
Old Jan 07, 2012, 05:48 AM
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Geee . . . What a nice Ultra-light setup. That looks super cool ! Well taught of. Gona get me one too
Having tried it today, it needs a little more thought!

The heli takes the weight if the camera fine. But the pack is only supported at the back by the stock mount ... so with the camera banded on top it's able to move slightly, causing some vibration blurring. I'm going to modify with some CF rod to give a steadier mounting.

This is getting a bit OT for this thread - will come back when I've got some decent #16 footage
Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:14 AM
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Having tried it today, it needs a little more thought!

The heli takes the weight if the camera fine. But the pack is only supported at the back by the stock mount ... so with the camera banded on top it's able to move slightly, causing some vibration blurring. I'm going to modify with some CF rod to give a steadier mounting.

This is getting a bit OT for this thread - will come back when I've got some decent #16 footage
Now that the camera is shipping, how about splitting the thread into several.... or better still, a #16 camera sub-forum. That way, support issues could be separated from use and installation discussion? I know it is nice to have everything in one place, but only if you have been following from the beginning. Coming in cold is a bit daunting.

Has anyone thought of doing a Yahoo Groups mailing list?

Paul
Old Jan 07, 2012, 08:52 AM
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Have done some successful flights this morning with the camera fixed with industrial velcro to a simple balsa plate taped between the landing gear skids. Will put up some samples later.

One specifc #16 issue. I was having problems 'levelling' the camera (many small helicopters are tilted slightly to one side in the hover), but in addition I've found that the video is slightly tilted even with the camera on a flat surface! I mentioned before that my lens unit seemed to be 'free floating' - I notice it's also angled sightly downward in the case (less of an issue).

Anyway I'm going to take it apart again and secure the lens unit ... possibly with a small dab of hot melt glue.
Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Old Jan 07, 2012, 09:58 AM
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Very very expensive and not much better if any I know about it.
Old Jan 07, 2012, 11:02 AM
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Originally Posted by pgoelz View Post
Now that the camera is shipping, how about splitting the thread into several.... or better still, a #16 camera sub-forum. That way, support issues could be separated from use and installation discussion? I know it is nice to have everything in one place, but only if you have been following from the beginning. Coming in cold is a bit daunting.

Has anyone thought of doing a Yahoo Groups mailing list?

Paul
Paul,

Splitting the thread or creating a sub forum for this camera would be nice but while I cannot speak for Tom Frank I do know he still monitors #11 thread, and the 1080 thread for the new key cam that's coming out. Doing so is a lot of work when a thread is properly managed. And, don't forget, it is a unpaid position. So, just wait for a while on the #16 thread, it will calm down with regard to firmware issues.

Bill


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