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Fuel lines
Be sure to use the correct size fuel line. I found that the 1/8th Tygon slipped and when I used cable ties to clamp it there was a small pinch point that allowed air in. Changed to 3/32 line which was a tight fit but no leaks. Works great and length from pump to carb appears to be no issue.
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As these are for smaller planes and space is a premium the last thing you want is more batteries and more weight. Suggest looking at this item as it will allow you to use one battery for ignition and receiver. It also is connected to your receiver and allows you to assign a switch so is essentially a cut out as well.
Works well and not a bad price http://www.tech-aero.net/ultra-ibec |
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I just received my GT9 engine and it s a great feeling to play with it.
Firstly I made a test by blowing into pump from tank supply nipple and as it should be, no allowed blowing pass into.So how your engine got flooded without run? Do you mean engine flip creates enough suction to pump fuel to carb?(The regulator inside pump will not allow pump fuel without suction by carb). I mean some kind of bulb as trap,on the line of carb.Air will leak into but cant easily return to fuel current.(Im not sure if I can success) It seems clamping is a must because nipples are smooth and easily lets hose slip out. |
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Couple of things. The fuel line going from the pump to the carb is under pressure so it cannot take in air if it were leaking. It would leak fuel out of it at the hose connections or a pinhole. A fuel line in the tank will not suck air unless the fuel itself were vibrating so bad it would cause bubbles. Glow fuel is is bad for that with an airframe that vibrates so badly that it needs good insulation around the tank to stop it. A filter is not needed on the pickup other than being a filter. If its solid fuel, there's no place for air to get in. Remember that many have a fuel filter between the firewall and the carb. Gasoline is less prone to foaming from vibration than glow fuel. Tie straps don't make good seals for air leaks, as the point where the two strap halfs come together is not tight around the hose. Sometimes it will work if you use two hoses with the joint on opposite sides. Best clamp to stop air is a piece of copper wire wound around the hose two full turns, then pull it tight and twist the ends together. I still suspect the air is getting in through the pulse line from the tank to the pump. Another test is to put a line a couple of ft. long on the pulse line then put the pump with no inlet or outlet lines on it Dunk it under a pot of water or kerosene or gas. and blow on the line with your mouth. Don't use air from a pressure tank as it may have enough pressure to blow a hole through the diaphram. Not nice!! There must not be any air leaking anywhere. hope this helps a bit. Been through all this running a small motor shop and many yrs flying gassers.
Gord. |
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Last edited by flypaper 2; Apr 04, 2012 at 06:28 AM.
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But you could give it a try using a common battery pack and have someone hold the plane with the engine running, while you conduct a range check carefully. It might work with some RC systems whereas other RC systems go crazy. I always preferred to avoid the situation in the first place. One other thought is that the CDI ignition module works with 4.8v battery packs, maybe it works with 6.0 volt packs, but anything higher in voltage will kill it. The problem is everyone doesn't have any ignition modules to sell separately. So if you use more than 4.8v to power the ignition module it may kill it. About the only small spark plug (1/4x32 size) ignition module available at this time is for the Saito engines and they wanted $179.99 US) for it. So until we can buy extra ignition modules I would be careful with how much voltage one uses with them. My engine and ignition module ran really well with a 4.8v battery pack, so I won't be trying higher voltages any time soon. There have been numerous horror stories already with gas engine folks trying two cell Lipo packs and killing their ignition modules. |
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Last edited by earlwb; Apr 04, 2012 at 06:44 AM.
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Here is a excerpt from the RCexl instructions I got with a ignition module from another engine I have.
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Last edited by earlwb; Apr 04, 2012 at 07:05 AM.
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Glenn |
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in any case RCEXL will come out this year a new batch of ignition modules compatible with 2S lipos. Quote:
http://www.himodel.com/engines/Rcexl..._90degree.html it's the same story for servos if they are rated for 4.8 to 6.0 I wouldn't run them over 7.0V... |
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