Way Hay!!! Another word the rc filth filter missed lol Bugger Arse!

Sorry... don't mean to offend anyone, I am just really against censorship... wouldn't use foul language myself, or expect others to either... just found some things on RCG a wee bit dogmatic on occasion..

P

It occurs to me that there is an easier way to hinge the canopy that requires no cutting at all.
Many have heard of a "tension hinge" or as some call it an "over/under hinge".
It's usually used on control surfaces hinges, sometimes as the only hinging method, sometimes
as a supplement to traditional full length tape hinges. With EPO foam hinges, I often
just cut a little slit at either end, and add a set of tension hinges, while retaining the foam hinges
everywhere else.

What many don't realize is that a set of tension hinges can hinge pretty much any shape to
any other. pointed to round, round to square, square to square.. etc.
A set of three tension hinges, each about an inch wide, can hinge the front of the X8 canopy to
the fuse. I just tested it, and it works quite well. The tape needs a little stretch to handle
the curve in the fuse (clear hockey tape is a good match), but it makes for a tight hinge with
very little moving resistance. Is also aerodynamically clean.

ian

Originally Posted by ardebee

That's great and very resourcefull, thanks! Appreciate your taking time from your busy day. :-)
Could I use an accelerometer to give me an indication of the angle?

If you are using the arduino use a potentiometer with 5v running through it and read it as an analog I put you can code then for different angles. Bet to keep it as simple as possible. Obviously choose a pot maybe 10k that is free to rotate.

Originally Posted by Gusisin

If you are using the arduino use a potentiometer with 5v running through it and read it as an analog I put you can code then for different angles. Bet to keep it as simple as possible. Obviously choose a pot maybe 10k that is free to rotate.

I forgot to say pot the pot at the junction of the vane and the pivot in my little video.

Originally Posted by Daemon

Of course nothing is absolute, but if your preset auto-pilot speed is set for max efficiency (which
is generally just a tick above stall speed), then it will not be happy trying to maintain
a speed based off GPS input, in a tailwind.

All that other advice is swell, except that auto-pilots generally just don't think that way, which
is why they can create problems. They first apply pitch inputs to change or maintain
altitude, and then change throttle to maintain a pre-set airspeed. It can stall the plane
in the response lag between the two actions.

ian

It looks that we are saying a similar message. My initial reply was to counter your statement that "any autopilot that can control the throttle, must have true airspeed as its speed input and not GPS speed (ground speed), or it will cause stalls any time it flies downwind", and I believe your follow-up clarified that it is not 100% true.

My second point may have not been clear enough. These autopilots control loops are designed incorrectly and therefore it is nearly impossible to setup the aircraft for max efficiency when the throttle surges with every bit of turbulence the plane hits.

Originally Posted by Daemon

It occurs to me that there is an easier way to hinge the canopy that requires no cutting at all.
Many have heard of a "tension hinge" or as some call it an "over/under hinge".

ian

That's awesome. I have a number of canopies I am going to try this out on. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Daemon

It occurs to me that there is an easier way to hinge the canopy that requires no cutting at all.
Many have heard of a "tension hinge" or as some call it an "over/under hinge".
It's usually used on control surfaces hinges, sometimes as the only hinging method, sometimes
as a supplement to traditional full length tape hinges. With EPO foam hinges, I often
just cut a little slit at either end, and add a set of tension hinges, while retaining the foam hinges
everywhere else.

What many don't realize is that a set of tension hinges can hinge pretty much any shape to
any other. pointed to round, round to square, square to square.. etc.
A set of three tension hinges, each about an inch wide, can hinge the front of the X8 canopy to
the fuse. I just tested it, and it works quite well. The tape needs a little stretch to handle
the curve in the fuse (clear hockey tape is a good match), but it makes for a tight hinge with
very little moving resistance. Is also aerodynamically clean.

ian

I never tried a tension type hidge. pardon my ignorance. How is one sided tape stuck down on both surfaces? What am I missing?

Originally Posted by vertcnc

I never tried a tension type hidge. pardon my ignorance. How is one sided tape stuck down on both surfaces? What am I missing?

Let me see if I can explain....one strip is right-side up...the other is upside-down. This allows the sticky side to stick to the top (outside of the canopy) and the other strip is up-side down...so it can stick to the inside of the fuse.

Where they meet, the sticky side of both strips go together....think of when you shake someones hand...both palms go together.

Hope that helps.

Two strips of tape, stuck face to face for only a short distance (1/4-1/2"). Now one end of
the longer strip has sticky side up, the other sticky side down. Thread it through the hinge line
and stick each side to it's respective surface. Reverse the direction on the next
strip over, repeat.. They're great for repairing regular control surface hinges in the field.
You can slit the original tape or foam, just long enough to fit two tension hinges side by
side. Thread em through, pull tight (under tension) so the surface is lined up,
stick and done. If hinging an entire surface with em, you might use em in pairs, spaced
every couple inches, or just three sets of three. (set at either end, and one near the
control horn).

ian

Ok, got it. Just didn't realize they were made from 2 pieces. Thanks for the explanation.

Originally Posted by Gusisin

If you are using the arduino use a potentiometer with 5v running through it and read it as an analog I put you can code then for different angles. Bet to keep it as simple as possible. Obviously choose a pot maybe 10k that is free to rotate.

That makes sense. Much simpler to use a potentiometer. Although I'm still interested in your differential pressure approach. Thanks for the info.

Good morning everyone !

My question is : Is it not too dangerous to trow this plane with hand ?

Thanks

Fabrice

Originally Posted by Gusisin

Image catcher you read my mind. I want to build a mould for "pods" that can be interchanged. Standard connectors to the standard stuff in the main fuse and special mission cams and equipment in the nose, do you think this is doable ?

Sure it is doable. This dip of the nose was a last minute thing as I am itching to make a real start. What did you have in mind? PM sketches. I have just fibreglassed the plaster so hopefully I can pop it out on the weekend.

Originally Posted by Gusisin

Depending on your programming skills the ardupilot will allow you to add a couple of static sensors one on top and one below with a bit of coding you could have a stall warning on the OSD hehe. The static sensors would connect to the ic2 port

I'd be really interested in that. I have the APM air sensor.

Originally Posted by Gusisin

I forgot to say pot the pot at the junction of the vane and the pivot in my little video.

cool idea Yogz