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Well, they don't stretch like hoppy described the paper to do. I've been able to still get decent results though, like the nose of the jet. There may be a few wrinkles involved, but if you make sure and brush them down they can be sanded and minimized. I can take a picture later tonight or tomorrow to show a closer view but I thought it came out really well.
The photo below is a recent build I did of the "Porco Rosso" plane. It's totally covered with the filters (except the motor pod) and I think the curved areas come out ok. |
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I should point out it doesn't stretch a lot, but enough to take care of minimal curving. On large curvatures, I use a bunch of small pieces that almost lie flat. Like on the nose of this ME163.
Before and after sanding and painting. |
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Recently I stopped by a restaurant supply shop and they had boxes of filters that are much larger than your normal ones, but I had to buy a huge box of them. So I haven't made that purchase yet and still use the standard ones you can get at the grocery store. |
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How Big Planes to Afford This?Quote:
That is the answer I was looking for since post #1: what kind of plane are these guys talking about? ![]() I am a noob, I build with depapered elmer's board (only option within 2,000 km), but I want to stick to a cap of 3 foot wingspan and 17-20 ounces to my e-rc's "with the tanks full". ![]() |
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Brilliant MOVE !!!!
Coffee filters are produced with 100% softwood, Pine, and also treated with a wet strength agent, Kymene, to re-inforce the strength when wet. They are very stable when wet and generally do not experience any cross sectional instability when subjected to moisture. Quote:
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The water causes the paper to relax so when you squeegee out the bubbles it stretches the paper, when it dries the paper tries to find it's original size this shrinkage which isn't all bad as it draws tight much like heating monocoat, but if too much shrinkage then warping and bending will happen.
I haven't tried coffee filters yet, but it is on my list of to dos. ![]() Quote:
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Okay, so nobody has so far done a before and after test on the mass of the reinforcing materials? hoppy, do you still have the piece you used in the first post? Can you weigh a piece of naked foam the same size and compare that to the piece you treated? I'd still like to get some sort of delta per area so that we can all project what planes will weigh based on their surface area. You can do that now with naked foam or FFF with the skin on it, but you can't do that if you don't know what the paper covering weighs.
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I have used the mini wax Polycrylic and Silkspan (tissue) on most of my
foam models, with very good results, the tissue conforms to curves and like the other methods mentioned it add's stiffness. short video on how I do it.
on my last model an EPO foam model, I did have a problem with the tissue lifting from the foam , while I was able to repair the damage , I'm now working on a new way of securing the tissue to the foam ImagesView all Images in thread
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Here is what appears to be rolls of filter material. Can't find a price but would be easier than cutting up coffee filters. http://www.ecplaza.net/trade-leads-s...--5553549.html
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coffie filter paper and heavy sillkspan are about the same ,
silkspan comes in diffrent weights.. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR757&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXKRU2&P=7 http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXR759&P=7 there are other sites that sell smaller amounts tower also didn't show the heavy silkspan in stock http://www.sigmfg.com/cgi-bin/dpsmar...FV5.html?E+Sig look at covering /tissue |
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Last edited by pulsery2k1; Dec 11, 2011 at 05:26 PM.
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I used the (1) Wet the foam with 50/50, (2) Apply paper dry, (3) mist paper till damp, and (4) Squeegee with credit card to remove excess glue on a piece of $Tree foam and got the following weights.
Wt of $Tree foam - 18g/sqft Wt of foam with one side covered - 25g/sqfy Wt of foam with both sides covered - 34g/sqft. |
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