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Laird Super Solution Build Thread!
OK guys the first 10 kits should be in the hands of builders at this time so thought a consolidated build thread to share ideas and answer questions along with any pics you can submit would be helpful! I will be writing a review on the plane for Bill and will also post progress pics here as I build! Thanks in advance for your input!
boomer |
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Ok, a couple small issues have already been noted:
1. There's no 1/16 stringers for the bottom of the fuse sides. The 1/8" by 1/16" laser cut stringers SHOULD subsitute for the 1/16 square. 2. There's no 1/32 balsa sheeting for the kit. My bad. Straight up stupidity on my part. 3. Boxes have been ordered 32" x 6" x 6", which should allow plenty of cushion room for the kit, and anything else someone might order. 4. I hate Kinkos, and won't use them again for the blueprints. I stood there with a ruler in hand checking print size against the plan, and it still appears that the print isn't 100% to size. Again, I hate Kinkos, enough said. I'm big enough to admit mistakes and make corrections. If you have something constructive to input about the kit, or if you feel that you deserve a partial refund for the lack of about 1.00 in balsa, let me know and I'll make right. Bill. |
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Exactly. I think the 1/8 x 1/16 can be substituted on the bottom of the fuse, where it calls for 1/16.
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Bill, on the prints since I'm an architect I have some insight on this. When running anything on a diazo process, you're going to get some stretch in one direction (parallel to the direction of feed). Normally it's not an issue, but for something like a plane kit plan, accuracy is very important. There are a few possible solutions:
- Call around and find a print shop that has a flat bed printer. The print paper and tracing are placed flat on a table, so there's no stretch of the print. Not sure if it costs more, I don't think it does, but it might. - Send the CADD file to the shop and have them plot it direct. Most print shops can plot right to bond, and I don't think it costs anymore than a bond copy (see below, bond copy is slightly more than a bond print). - Run bond copies instead of prints. In this case they scan the original into memory, then shoot off how ever many copies you want. It's not a process of laying the original over the media like in diazo, so there's no stretch. Bond copies cost a little more than diazo last time I checked, but the price keeps coming down on them. Good luck! |
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Tres,
These were printed from a DWG file that was converted to the "Kinko's File Format". The paper was fed through a pretty large printer. I wound up using a 103% blow up of the print to get the horizontal scale correct, but come to think of it, I never did check verticle, nor is there a verticle scale to check against. I'll try contacting several local print shops to see who has a plotter. Thanks for the advice. Bill |
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You will need to cut the 1/16 x 1/8 in half or make the notches in the fuse formers larger, also make sure to allow clearance for F7 or you will be cutting the 1/16 stringer back a bit, ask me how I know. Got side tracked today or I would have had most of the fuse done. Wife said I had to work on paying jobs, oh well.
Jerry |
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Fuse Top
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Fuse top at higher res. sorry about the small one.
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Fuse side
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You will also need to sand a little on F9 to make the angle match up to F2 and you will need to make the slot in F2 a little longer toward the bottom, see photo. No big deal, just a little sanding and fitting.
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Say, I have a plane that resembles that!
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I just put the instruction manual up on the site, in case any of the printed pics on my Samsung laser printer didn't come out clear @ 600x600 dpi.
www.parkflyermotors.com/LairdManual.ppt It's in MS PowerPoint, and you will probably want to do a "Right Click" and "Save As", because with all of it's pics, it's about a 14mb download. Bill |
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