Free Flight FF Auto Balance Controller with 3D Acceleration Sensor For QuadCopter - Page 56 - RC Groups
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Jan 16, 2012, 01:42 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
Hi Alek,
Some Gents have had to recalibrate those ESCs in very cold temperatures to get them to arm reliably. While it might not be your whole issue, it certainly could be a part of it. Are you using some kind of lipo warmer in those temperatures? They need to be kept warm for the best performance. Some Gents who must fly in that cold environment use those medical back/arm patches that warm up chemically and wrap the lipo in it.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d
Hobbyking SS Series 18-20A ESC (card programmable)
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=6548

I still think it is the board. Gimbal was dead, and it normally works even if the board is not armed, only powered is enough for gimbal to work. But it was dead.
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Jan 16, 2012, 01:48 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
J,
A gimbal is a camera mount that is gyro stabilized. In this case from the FF board. I find this a clever one that uses two servos for the pitch and roll axis together and one for yaw:
3-axis camera gimbal for GoPro (assembly and servo test) (2 min 10 sec)

Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaccies
curious...what is a gimbal??
Jan 16, 2012, 01:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jaccies
curious...what is a gimbal??
2-axis camera mount.
Jan 16, 2012, 01:56 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins
Hi Alek,
Some Gents have had to recalibrate those ESCs in very cold temperatures to get them to arm reliably. While it might not be your whole issue, it certainly could be a part of it. Are you using some kind of lipo warmer in those temperatures? They need to be kept warm for the best performance. Some Gents who must fly in that cold environment use those medical back/arm patches that warm up chemically and wrap the lipo in it.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Battery was taken out when I went to fly. I put outside only quad without battery. Did you mean I should let the quad outside for some time when connected to battery?

Anyway, I won't fly it when freezing. Too much issues. Just have to wait for warmer weather, when it was like +5 or more it looked like it worked. So I do not have to wait till summer
Jan 16, 2012, 02:08 PM
Eduardo

Baro


Quax, some news about your BARO test ?
Jan 16, 2012, 02:38 PM
gke
gke
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by timecop
Sounds like maybe some luminary micro part or maybe an unknown chinese knockoff. Pinout didn't match anything sensible but I didn't spend a lot of time looking. Whatever I2C "problems" exist don't affect normal operation/usage. I've done I2C on both STM8 and STM32 as master and slave and had no issues. Its quirky, such as 2-byte buffering stuff, but once you get it, it makes sense.
OK thanks particularly the buffering hint. I bought the base Rabbit board without the compass and baro just to play with. Hopefully I can generate code for it. Pennies anyway with the freefall in prices.

Greg
Jan 16, 2012, 03:31 PM
Registered User
spend a lot of time reading the megaindex. Learned a lot! (thx Jesolins)

started to experiment to find a solution for the "3 second great stable hover & start to drift problem"

What did i do?

programmed the ESC's(HobbyWing Skywalker 20A) individually for:
* throttle range
* brake off
* battery type: NiMH (yes NiMH; see megaindex)
* Cutoffmode: soft cut
* Cutoff threshold: Low
* start mode: normal
* timing: tried high / tried low
other tests:
* Changed the props from 3 blade to 2 blade
* Recalibrate IMU before each test
* Recalibrate the FF board with the CH5 switch(green led) before each test (with full throttle before switch off CH5)

What was NOT tested:
* 3D mode
* Upgrade firmware
What i don't understand:
* as long as the quad is in the air, the drift is getting worse & worse
* it drifts to the right AND forward
* i counter it with giving Stick left & back until i am fully left en back with the stick
* if i put the quad on the ground and go back up (without disarming or resetting it first); there is a good stable hover for 3 seconds
Anybody with the same issues or any suggestions ?
I think the next step could be changing the motors/ESC's ?

Julkabas
Jan 16, 2012, 03:49 PM
g0t rabb1t?
ABLomas's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julkabas
Anybody with the same issues or any suggestions ?
I think the next step could be changing the motors/ESC's ?
I would (in that order):
  1. Check board orientation (include photo?) and prop rotation
  2. Upgrade firmware
  3. change ESC firmware if possible
Jan 16, 2012, 04:18 PM
Hooked on FPV
Quote:
Originally Posted by alek3d
1. No baro, no compass.... for $50???
2. It was not really PNP for me, but I had problem with my frame too. But it flies and for others it was PNP.
3. Manual in the first post.
So if it has no baro, no compass, is not really plug and play and the cost is $50 why is there so much talk about it? Just asking an honest question, am I missing something about this board? Is it any better than the Multiwii?
Last edited by ferrocium; Jan 16, 2012 at 04:23 PM.
Jan 16, 2012, 04:34 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
J,
It looks like you are stepping through the possible causes so good on you for that Are you positive the IMU calibration is getting done properly? If I had this issue I would test it by putting a tilt on the model by raising one side 1cm then doing the calibration. Note: sure your Tx trims are at zero when you do the IMU calibration. Then after doing the cal with the raised side, the multcopter should want to go in the direction it was tilted when you did the cal, so you will then know it is working. Re-do the cal with it absolutely level again. If you experience the same drift to the same side then offset it by putting something under the opposite side it was drifting to to counter the drift. The previous note applies again whenever you do the IMU calibrations.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julkabas
...Anybody with the same issues or any suggestions ?
I think the next step could be changing the motors/ESC's ?

Julkabas
Jan 16, 2012, 04:39 PM
OpenAeroVTOL developer
HappySundays's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrocium
So if it has no baro, no compass, is not really plug and play and the cost is $50 why is there so much talk about it? Just asking an honest question, am I missing something about this board? Is it any better than the Multiwii?
PNP has nothing to do with baros or compasses. The big thing is that it has a very fast 32-bit processor and good sensors for $50. MultiWii is what it is - an open source project with basic hardware for experimenters. Certainly not PNP.
We are interested in this board for its hardware, for experimenting.
Jan 16, 2012, 04:52 PM
Tri-Quad-Hexa-Octo-copters!!
F,
It seems to fly about the same as the multiwiicopter. So it is about the same class of economy multicopter. The multiwiicopter these days can be a BIY or almost plug and play and has come a long way from the days when I built it from Wii gyros and accelerometers and a arduino pro-mini for about the same price It is just an simple economy value multicopter board that seems to work OK and is a curiosity for those of us who like to fly multicopters
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Quote:
Originally Posted by ferrocium
So if it has no baro, no compass, is not really plug and play and the cost is $50 why is there so much talk about it? Just asking an honest question, am I missing something about this board? Is it any better than the Multiwii?
Jan 16, 2012, 05:19 PM
Registered User
J, I Had EXACTLY the same problem before, and ended solving it doing what you have written.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jesolins
J,
It looks like you are stepping through the possible causes so good on you for that Are you positive the IMU calibration is getting done properly? If I had this issue I would test it by putting a tilt on the model by raising one side 1cm then doing the calibration. Note: sure your Tx trims are at zero when you do the IMU calibration. Then after doing the cal with the raised side, the multcopter should want to go in the direction it was tilted when you did the cal, so you will then know it is working. Re-do the cal with it absolutely level again. If you experience the same drift to the same side then offset it by putting something under the opposite side it was drifting to to counter the drift. The previous note applies again whenever you do the IMU calibrations.
Hope that helps.
Cheers,
Jim
Quadrocopter and Tricopter Mega Link Index
Jan 16, 2012, 05:39 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by eaton
Hi Jim,
Yes, I selected I2C when tested.

Unfortunately, my board did not work, after upgrading to 1.24.
Everything working fine with PC program (I did RC cal and IMU cal),
but I could not ARM the motors.


Eaton
How did you try arming in 1.24? I think arming sequence is completely different, maybe that was the problem for the board for not arming in 1.24 while everything else (zns1007) was doing fine.
Jan 16, 2012, 09:27 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by apejovic
How did you try arming in 1.24? I think arming sequence is completely different, maybe that was the problem for the board for not arming in 1.24 while everything else (zns1007) was doing fine.
Thanks for a nice advice.
I read a manual again, and found arming was different on 1.24, as you pointed out.

Now my FF board 1.24 works fine with PWM ESCs, and I will continue to test I2C ESCs

Thanks
Eaton


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