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Dec 01, 2011, 01:10 AM
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Cool

My new spin on a T-28


I killed my Parkzone T-28 and got even more depressed over what it was going to cost me to replace it. My wife was on me not to spend any more $$ than we need to and a new plane or even a new fuse wasn't an option. After reading up on a few cheap design ideas I settled on foam. I used blue 1/2 inch foam sheets bonded by wood glue to make the fuse. I am re-using the cowling, cockpit/radio bay cover, and some of the other hardware from the T-28 as well as all of the electronics. I smoked my motor so I replaced it with a turnigy G10. I only have the fuse about 85% done and I'm thinking the 10 may be too small. The weight is much higher than I expected. The G10 is supposed to be a big upgrade for the T, but i dont know if it will be enough. I have a G25 I could use, but I'll have to re-do the firewall and motor mount. Even then I don't think it would fit in the cowling. Either way, I've had fun and learned a lot along the way. Can't wait to finish it.
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Dec 01, 2011, 01:47 AM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
That turnigy G10 will be fine and it should fly way better than stock/
Good luck with it all.
Dec 01, 2011, 09:57 AM
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That looks good.

I might try the same thing with an old HZ Supercub.
Dec 01, 2011, 01:17 PM
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If you do I don't suggest making a solid block like I did. I would suggest making bulk heads that make the basic shape of the plane and wrap it in fanfold. The fanfold can be bent and shaped to the bulk heads and sanded lightly for minor shaping. The solid block of foam is heavier than the expanded foam on production foamies. Using the 1/2" bulk heads and wrapping it in the fan fold will shave a lot of weight and still be pretty durable. You could make a thin plywood servo tray between bulkheads to hold your battery and electronics.
Dec 02, 2011, 05:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whiskers
That turnigy G10 will be fine and it should fly way better than stock/
Good luck with it all.
On a stock T-28 a G10 would be a much better motor. However, this foam is much denser and heavier than the white OEM foam. Im hoping that the overall weight is still within the G10's ability to fly. I tried to add more photos of the plane but I cant seem to post from my iphone right now. I was able to get the wing started and I made a mistake. I was originally going to stick with a rectangle wing but decided to make the trailing edge angled like on the original wing. I didnt take into account how this would affect the chord before I started sanding. so now my wingtips will have the correct teardrop shape but as I move closer to the fuselage the wing tapers down to a larger and larger flat area between the trailing edge and the edge of the sanded down taper. I would have to sand the wing down well beyond what I need to keep for ailerons to even come close to looking sort of right.

i read up on how to use foam board to make strong wings and I may look at that for a replacement if this just wont work. If it flys I guess it wont matter. If a Pizza box can fly with no airfoil, then a few inches of flat space behind the wing shouldnt hurt too much. I hope.......................
Dec 02, 2011, 06:04 PM
Build straight - Fly twisty
Whiskers's Avatar
For 'ordinary' flying the airfoil shape is not very important.
Planes with cambered top and flat bottomed wings fly OK inverted and do outside loops with ease. It's like - wrong!
Some people I know have turned up to the field with wings that should not have been able to fly... But they did.
Some of them even flew quite well.
Yours should be fine.
Dec 02, 2011, 07:26 PM
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Bill Smudge's Avatar
If weight is a big problem you might be able to shave off a little fat by boring holes all the way through the fuse aft of the wing mount area, thin walled tubing sharpened makes a good boring tool for foam. Then youm cover the lightening holes with tape.

Just a thought.

Bill


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