WLToys V911 review (Solo Pro/Trex 100 clone) - Page 984 - RC Groups
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Dec 12, 2012, 08:38 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by chris thielsen
I don't know... from what I've seen, in my humble very novice opinion the 150mAh batteries I've seen are considerable longer than the one shown. Just a thought...
The two I bought a couple months back are about a quarter inch longer and mess with cg a little bit. They give the heli a bit of backward drift. They do give it a little more pep though.
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Dec 12, 2012, 09:06 AM
Registered User
chris thielsen's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by elkabong80
The two I bought a couple months back are about a quarter inch longer and mess with cg a little bit. They give the heli a bit of backward drift. They do give it a little more pep though.
so do you think the little more pep vs cg and extra weight is worth it? is it harder on the motors to run a higher mAh battery?
Dec 12, 2012, 09:57 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter
If you never crash, I think it can last that long.
Seems biggest problem is crash, I wonder how many flights the main and tail motor can operate normally ..

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2_Crash_Thumbs
I am always pushing my self to fly better and expect be to crashing for a long time. In 1 month of flying my y911 I have had 3 skid breakages, 1 rotor head breakage and 1 tail motor failure.
I've made so many crashes (70+ in the first 3 days at least) and lost count already, luckily no serious damage so far.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 75 Bravo
I've logged 25 hours of flight time over 4 months on my V911. Replaced skid and blades. Banged it into something almost every flight. Tail motor is starting to heat up, probably about ready to go.
Roughly 300 flights .. impressive .. tail motor is warmer than usual ?
Dec 12, 2012, 11:10 AM
Phantom 3
SMEGS888's Avatar
[QUOTE=RFDelie;23348739]I just use a drop of micro bearing oil from my local hobby shop. It has the perfect viscosity to get down into the small bearings but not come flying out when it spins. You only need one drop.

http://niftech.com/catalog.php?mode=1000

Micro Bearing Oil is about 2/3rd's the way down the page.[/QUOTI

I tried to order from the online store for the oil and I called the price is 8.99 a bottle and plus shipping for 21.00 buck. To expensive so I cancilled.
Dec 12, 2012, 11:23 AM
Registered User
I ordered my v911 from tmart and took ages to come. it flies ok, but I thought would be more stable. Anyway, I've only now I just realised that tmart sent me the OLD version, not the NEW version as requested. What would you do?
Is the V2 better than the V1 in flight characteristics? More stable?

Cheers,
Jon
Dec 12, 2012, 12:02 PM
Sir Crashalot
stonecutter's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonspurs
I ordered my v911 from tmart and took ages to come. it flies ok, but I thought would be more stable. Anyway, I've only now I just realised that tmart sent me the OLD version, not the NEW version as requested. What would you do?
Is the V2 better than the V1 in flight characteristics? More stable?

Cheers,
Jon
I don't have a new version (new battery type), but old versions are known for their stability. Examine the heli closely and see if there are obvious anomalies, like a warped flybar, I remember I got one (not from tmart, but that's irrelevant) with a warped flybar due to other parts I ordered stuffed in every available space in the shipping container, warping the flybar in the process.
Dec 12, 2012, 12:20 PM
Phantom 3
SMEGS888's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by bulesz
hohohoho, its my weakpont... from where could I get one Augusta 109?

many thanks!

EDIT: I have found an orange one:
http://www.hobby-estore.com/Nano-esk...sky-002845.htm
Found at ebay for lower price.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/190684758025...84.m1423.l2649
Dec 12, 2012, 12:32 PM
Registered User
I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but I can't quite decide how to handle charging habits for the batteries.

I've come to the assumption that I should either a: go ahead and charge them all up when I'm done flying (for convenience's sake) and store them in our fridge (slow down the decaying process), or b: run them until they are obviously getting low (having to adjust rudder trim and reacting sluggishly) and then not charge and not worry about storing in the fridge.

Any thoughts or Pro's/Con's to my 2 ways of storing the batteries?

Also even though method a seems more convenient, I would still need to let the batteries warm up which also takes time...
Dec 12, 2012, 01:19 PM
Sir Crashalot
stonecutter's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkatiem
I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but I can't quite decide how to handle charging habits for the batteries.

I've come to the assumption that I should either a: go ahead and charge them all up when I'm done flying (for convenience's sake) and store them in our fridge (slow down the decaying process), or b: run them until they are obviously getting low (having to adjust rudder trim and reacting sluggishly) and then not charge and not worry about storing in the fridge.

Any thoughts or Pro's/Con's to my 2 ways of storing the batteries?

Also even though method a seems more convenient, I would still need to let the batteries warm up which also takes time...
For batteries I tend to use on a daily or near daily basis, I just keep them at room temperature fully charged. Haven't had any negative effects that I can see. Long term storage may be a different matter, other more knowledgeable folks have to chime in.
Dec 12, 2012, 02:30 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by paulkatiem
I'm sure this has been covered many times before, but I can't quite decide how to handle charging habits for the batteries.

I've come to the assumption that I should either a: go ahead and charge them all up when I'm done flying (for convenience's sake) and store them in our fridge (slow down the decaying process), or b: run them until they are obviously getting low (having to adjust rudder trim and reacting sluggishly) and then not charge and not worry about storing in the fridge.

Any thoughts or Pro's/Con's to my 2 ways of storing the batteries?

Also even though method a seems more convenient, I would still need to let the batteries warm up which also takes time...
There are many good sites on Li-po batteries. It's my understanding that fully discharging a battery will damage it. Batteries should be stored with at least 50% charge. I fully charge my batteries after each use and store at room temp. I have reserve batteries that I store in the frig long term with a least 80% charge. My oldest 120mah battery has 120 cycles and preforms like new.
Dec 12, 2012, 02:37 PM
Registered User
Thanks stonecutter and 75 Bravo! Your responses were extremely helpful and just what I was looking for.

I had read enough technical junk, I mainly just wanted to see real-world use and how that affects the batteries to a human not a computer...

Again Thanks, hopefully this discussion will be helpful to others as well.
Dec 12, 2012, 03:35 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by CCbusa05
I addressed this issue a few pages ago. Back out the flybar screw 1/2 to one full turn. Apply a small drop of oil to the flybar holder and I'm betting your TBE will be gone. It MUST bounce up and down freely 2 or 3 times when you give it a flick with a finger! I have 4 V911s and after doing this, ALL of them hover spot on!
I had nothing but trouble with the 4 MSRs I owned last year and never could get them to perform anywhere close to that of the V911. Ended up selling all of them.
Thanks! I will try that tonight CCbusa

Four MSR's?? Wow. I was thinking about rebuilding my first trusty msr and see if I could get rid of the TBE. I guess I better stick with the V911's

Quote:
Originally Posted by chris thielsen
so do you think the little more pep vs cg and extra weight is worth it? is it harder on the motors to run a higher mAh battery?
I don't.. Especially when the seller thinks the battery's worth its weight in gold..

Quote:
Originally Posted by jonspurs
I ordered my v911 from tmart and took ages to come. it flies ok, but I thought would be more stable. Anyway, I've only now I just realised that tmart sent me the OLD version, not the NEW version as requested. What would you do?
Is the V2 better than the V1 in flight characteristics? More stable?

Cheers,
Jon
I wouldn't unless you already have gear suited for the new style. As stated.. Some think the old version from BG is the best one.. Ill let you know when mine finally arrive. Oh wait.. I ordered a few new BNF's from BG
Last edited by GiantScale; Dec 12, 2012 at 03:40 PM.
Dec 12, 2012, 05:09 PM
Scotsman in Germany
tiggertoo1962's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by CCbusa05
These look to be the same and are advertised as being 120mAh:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Silver-1...item1e75624eaf
They have the proper upgrade batteries advertised at BG but they're already out of stock with a 2-week back order .
http://www.banggood.com/Wholesale-Ne...l?currency=EUR
If I were you I wouldn't buy any supposed upgrade battery unless it says "150mAh" on the battery body itself, which this one does
Dec 12, 2012, 05:15 PM
Sir Crashalot
stonecutter's Avatar
Can someone who has both old and new battery versions comment on differences in flight characteristics, and battery quality? I still haven't heard what are the advantages, if any, of the new vs old.
Dec 12, 2012, 05:47 PM
Scotsman in Germany
tiggertoo1962's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stonecutter
Can someone who has both old and new battery versions comment on differences in flight characteristics, and battery quality? I still haven't heard what are the advantages, if any, of the new vs old.
TBH stonecutter there's not too much difference unless you have the earlier new-version models, which were more susceptible to the battery disconnecting in a crash. They seem to have that sorted now.

The 120 mah old and new batteries seem to give me similar flying times, but since I'm not too anal about checking everything with a stopwatch, that's only going on feel.

One potentially big difference I can see (but haven't closely checked yet):

I ordered new-style skids, which were delivered without contacts and cables, but with a small plastic "contact holder". Looks like the female connector pulls out of the new skids, whereas the old contacts were integrated into the skid, which made them a bitch to solder a busted cable back on for someone with my limited soldering skills. Could also mean that anyone looking to make a new-style V911 lead for their battery charger would have a source for the female plug, if they either have a heli they want to butcher, or could persuade WL Toys to sell the part separately. Let's face it, plugs can bust too


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