Lumenier RB2205C-12 2400KV SKITZO Ceramic Bearing Motor
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 06:14 PM
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Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
Well that's 4 more batteries emptied - 2 on the B/W & 2 on the yellow. Only damage was a slight nick to the forehead when I didn't duck quick enough so I'm definitely getting better. Decided that was enough flying for tonight though when the yellow bird nearly knocked my beer bottle over
Yeah, when that happens it's time to retire the bird and bring out more beer.
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Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:26 PM
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I noticed Banggood started shipping packages containing (multiple) lipo's thru Germany (BG may have warehouses in EU?), so evidently the China Post and Hong Kong Post lipo ban is being strictly enforced.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by hereathome View Post
I moved from near sea level to 7000 feet. The poor little 911 has to work itself to death to stay up in normal flight for more than one minute, then it flies a couple inches off the ground until the battery is depleted. I am guessing that is because it has something to "push against". I upgraded to the 150 ma batteries, but that doesn't help much. Are there some longer blades, more powerful motor or some other modifications that can be made to keep it aloft longer?
Google: Density altitude.

I bet that for the first few days you worked yourself to death to get a few inches off the floor.

Not much you can do.
7000' is way up there.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 07:48 PM
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I ordered a new connector V911 from Bangood just because I have so many of the battery's. I fly Ultra Micro Planes, probably have 20 batteries.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:21 PM
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I found a Chinese thread that explains the steps to modify the transmitter to accepts 4 x AA batteries instead of 6. Check out the detailed photos.

http://bbs.mx3g.com/thread-320782-1-1.html
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:28 PM
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Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
8 BUCKS!!! YOU WERE ROBBED I got 5 of them from BG for 7.58€ (9.85 USD). OK I had to wait 3 weeks, but still...

Why don't you just get either an old-style BNF, old-style charger and a few more batteries. I have both old and new styles and TBH I prefer the old. The new ones sometimes disconnect with even a slight tail hit and, instead of practising my "emergency escape skills" I end up picking the heli off the floor, reconnecting and rebinding before I can carry on flying
I am willing to trade the 2 brand new (old style) battery's for 2 slightly used new style battery's even up if anyone is willing.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:30 PM
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Always borking my corter
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Originally Posted by FyreSG View Post
I found a Chinese thread that explains the steps to modify the transmitter to accepts 4 x AA batteries instead of 6. Check out the detailed photos.

http://bbs.mx3g.com/thread-320782-1-1.html
It would be awesome if someone who speaks Chinese could translate this for us.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:40 PM
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Originally Posted by erdnuckel2 View Post
pay a little more and use a SP270 swash (or better, just the upper half of it) and get a SP260 canopy (those are the lightest I know - someone on here posted (and I can confirm) about 1.9g ...
And those are BOTH things that MM should have ...

edit:
http://www.miracle-mart.com/store/in...oducts_id=8713
(then tell them HK has it for less ...)

... daaaiiiiiing !!! they dont have any SP260 canopies

edit2:
myrcmart has the SP260 canopy and the SP270 swash ... maybe (they are cheaper than mm) its enough to make up for the shipping ...
SP270 swash has the guide pin in the wrong place for original V911 corters.
It should fit the new Y911, but then it's already got the fisheye and CF shaft.

The "fisheye" has two guide pins, so works with old/new corters.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:51 PM
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Originally Posted by RicksterRC View Post
SP270 swash has the guide pin in the wrong place for original V911 corters.
It should fit the new Y911, but then it's already got the fisheye and CF shaft.

The "fisheye" has two guide pins, so works with old/new corters.
The guide is easily moved to allow for the other swash. I relocated it on one of my 911s so I could fit the Esky fuselage without too much cutting.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by tiggertoo1962 View Post
I also asked this question within, I think, the last 24 hours, but haven't had an answer yet. Your rudder trim, assuming mode 2, is the small switch just below your throttle (left) stick. If you click it several times toward the right that should stop the heli rotating anti-clockwise (counterclockwise if you speak "Ami-English" )
...
The tail rotor then spins creating torque on the perpendicular axis to counter this rotation, i.e. if the tail rotor doesn't provide enough power, the heli will still rotate to the left. Conversely, if it provides too much, the heli will rotate to the right.

I'm assuming (dangerous, cos to assume means you make an ass out of u and out of me ) that the rudder trim simply causes the tail rotor to either speed up or slow down, depending on trim direction.
Yes. That''s basically it.
The gyro also gets involved.
If you hold the copter with the blades spinning, and twist it left/right, you'll see the gyro speed up/down the tail rotor to try and stop the rotation.
Quote:

The question I posed was basically is there any change I can make to the setup so that I don't have to trim hard right to stop it rotating left? I can imagine putting a slightly larger rotor on the tail might do it (bigger rotor + same rpm = more counteractive force) but I suspect that otherwise it just has to be accepted. I could well imagine that's why we have rudder trim, to compensate for the fact that even different examples of the same motor won't necessarily deliver the same power.
...
Rotating left (needing lots of right trim) is an indication that the tail rotor isn't doing enough.

Blow (hard) on the tail rotor. It should spin fast and take a while to stop.
If you can't make it spin, or it stops immediately, it's probably binding.

Check for dust/lint. Check that the rotor isn't pushed on to far and binding against the motor.
Consider adding a single drop of light sewing machine type oil to the shaft where it enters the motor.

Unfortunately, there's no "mechanical" trim for this problem.
It's also common that the rudder trim changes throughout the flight as the battery diminishes.

The good news is, as you get more proficient, you won't spend as much time hovering - and the level of trim won't bother you.

You'll be flying and your thumbs will be doing the correct thing, even if that's adding right rudder when you want no yaw.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by bflan2001 View Post
It would be awesome if someone who speaks Chinese could translate this for us.
I could read Chinese but I'm an idiot at electronics, so I can't translate the electronic components to English.

1. Remove 2 x 1N4148, use 2 pieces of wires as replacement, or simply short the 2 connectors.

2. With reference to the 5 red LEDs on the transmitter, extract but do not discard, the 2 x "限流电阻" (resistor?) labelled "222". This way, 3 LED lights up.

3. Remove 2 x "电压采样" components labeled as "223" and "103" respectively. Do not throw them away as they would be required later. Replace with the "222" components from step 2.

4. With the "223" and "103" extracted in step 3, join them with the buzzer / beeper, "限流电阻" (resistor?) and "470". While buzzer still works, the impact on the system is insignificant.

5. Remove each piece of the "D882 三极管" and 5V6 "稳压二极管" to disable USB charging capability.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:09 PM
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Always borking my corter
Thank you!

Quote:
Originally Posted by FyreSG View Post
I could read Chinese but I'm an idiot at electronics, so I can't translate the electronic components to English.

1. Remove 2 x 1N4148, use 2 pieces of wires as replacement, or simply short the 2 connectors.

2. With reference to the 5 red LEDs on the transmitter, extract but do not discard, the 2 x "限流电阻" (resistor?) labelled "222". This way, 3 LED lights up.

3. Remove 2 x "电压采样" components labeled as "223" and "103" respectively. Do not throw them away as they would be required later. Replace with the "222" components from step 2.

4. With the "223" and "103" extracted in step 3, join them with the buzzer / beeper, "限流电阻" (resistor?) and "470". While buzzer still works, the impact on the system is insignificant.

5. Remove each piece of the "D882 三极管" and 5V6 "稳压二极管" to disable USB charging capability.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:17 PM
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Originally Posted by stonecutter View Post
I noticed Banggood started shipping packages containing (multiple) lipo's thru Germany (BG may have warehouses in EU?), so evidently the China Post and Hong Kong Post lipo ban is being strictly enforced.
My Banggood order for a y911, TX, Charger and LiPo recently arrived in Canada from Frankfurt Germany.
Old Dec 04, 2012, 11:53 PM
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My hobbyking went thru Zürich so now it makes sense as i had a lipo in the order.
Old Dec 05, 2012, 12:15 AM
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Futaba 9CRAPTOR 90V911V922
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scale body


What scale body could fit for the v911. Does anyone have a idea.


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