WLToys V911 review (Solo Pro/Trex 100 clone) - Page 901 - RC Groups
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Oct 14, 2012, 12:36 PM
Jake From Planet Mascoutah, IL
Jake8131's Avatar
Had this one for a long time now..batteries are getting flakey, but this bird still flys the way it did out of the box..had to replace the tail motor on the third day....no TBE, no PE, hovers sweet and loves to fly outside!

WLTOYSV911 BC (2 min 12 sec)
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Oct 14, 2012, 03:54 PM
Micro Menace
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevez1kart
Paper body? This my not be new here but I found this YT video pretty neat. Pdf files for construction are listed in the description.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6HnHQ...ture=endscreen
More detailed [URL="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NkcGLVuJFfI&feature=relmfu"]
Thanks for the post. I love the paper canopies. My bell fuselage is $10-16 and it's about as fragile as paper. I made a black one so far and I printed up a red one as well.

If anyone is planning on making these I suggest you put tape on the back of the paper for extra strength where it attaches to the post.
Last edited by Budasac; Oct 14, 2012 at 04:03 PM.
Oct 14, 2012, 04:16 PM
Trees are bad
Stevez1kart's Avatar
[QUOTE][/If anyone is planning on making these I suggest you put tape on the back of the paper for extra strength where it attaches to the post.
QUOTE] I was think of maybe covering the outside with clear packing tape before cutting out the pieces. Now I just have to find a friend that has a color printer.
Oct 14, 2012, 04:23 PM
Micro Menace
Quote:
Originally Posted by Stevez1kart
I was think of maybe covering the outside with clear packing tape before cutting out the pieces. Now I just have to find a friend that has a color printer.
I just used heavy gloss photo paper. The tape on the inside is just a little re-enforcement for the paper where it attaches to the frame.

I think it looks pretty cool for a sheet of paper and 5 minutes work. I like how it utilizes the stock canopy as well.
Oct 14, 2012, 04:33 PM
My goal is fly more crash less

Disposable heli


Quote:
Originally Posted by LittleMo
Another option, as someone posted above, would be to just cut the old wires and then twist them together with the new ones. Then cover with tape/shrink-tube/whatever.
Hadn't thought of shrink tubing. I happen to have some small gauge stuff on hand from back when I was thinking of connecting two batteries at a time to an old S23G. What a great solution for fixing the landing skids!! In my excitement I neglected to note the "Keep heat source 2" away from tubing" but in the end it's all good and my skids don't need replacing.

That's $23US still in my pocket for another day. :-)
Oct 14, 2012, 08:08 PM
Registered User
I won an auction on ebay and received a new V911 canopy, main blades, tail blade, and tail vertical stabilizer. My original V911 was blue and worn out, and my new set is red. Well first off the blades when installed are two tight, so I need to do some sanding of the pivot posts I suppose. Now that I'm looking at it, there really is no way to put the tail stabilizer on without removing the tail motor housing, or the entire tail. And since both ends seem super glued, it makes you wonder how they intend you to install this stuff. I do have to replace the tail motor as well (for the 2nd time), so I don't mind taking it off, but with the rear assembly still stuck on there, I don't know that removing the motor would even matter.

Any one ever accomplished this?

I've also got a new all white V911. The tail stabilizer of course is better designed so you can take it off from one side.

Thanks,
Max
Oct 14, 2012, 08:15 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ricomon
OK, as promised, here's a comparison showing how the E sky, MCX, and CX Nano Hughes 300 canopies fit on the WL Toys V911 and the yellow clone. The frames are a tad different. The body mounting posts are wider on the yellow clone, and the rear post is a bit farther back on the yellow clone.

The MCX is the best fit, but they all work on both frames, although the CX Nano is REALLY tight on the yellow clone. The fuel tanks on the E sky and CX Nano must be splayed out, and the CX Nano won't even reach the front post.

I hope this helps somebody to make a choice on a canopy.

Rick
Thank you! Great Info. I'm waiting for mine already.
Oct 14, 2012, 09:44 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by elkabong80
...
The heli seemed to lose connection with the tx a few times too
...
Short range could be an antenna issue.

Check out this post: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=8742
Oct 14, 2012, 09:54 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeJaque
As for the LED on the board theres really nothing fancy. It's hooked up straigh to the battery cables, with no resistor, threw a splice I had to do when changing landing skids some time back.

The tail light was only a matter of (in my case) nerve. I simply scraped enough cable isolation off the tail motor wires to be able to get the legs of the LED squeezed between the actual wire and the remaining isolation. Then shrink tube...
Could secure it with some CA. I didn't..

When hooking it up like this the tail LED will not light up until you are actually flying the thing. It's a pity but I don't se how else it could be done without more wires.
Well, I don't recommend wiring any LED without a resistor. It will probably have a bright, but short life.
The one you have connected directly to the battery must be white or blue, or it would have burned out immediately.

In the case of your tail motor LED, the LED may limit the speed of the motor.
(When the tail voltage gets above 2.1V, the LED will get real bright, and the motor won't go any faster until the LED burns out).

If you find that the heli won't turn right, that's the cause.

For lighting ideas, see my blog.

BTW: The clearish wire in the lower left of your pic is the RX antenna. Untangle it and point it straight out for better performance.
Oct 14, 2012, 09:55 PM
Registered User
BlacksheepVMF214's Avatar
Well, I'm officially hooked. This thing is a blast to fly! Took a little time to get used to but I can now do full speed laps in the living room. Already considering getting another in order to make sure I'm air-worthy at all times.
Oct 14, 2012, 10:43 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC
Short range could be an antenna issue.

Check out this post: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...postcount=8742
Thanks Rickster. My fs-th9x comes tomorrow, so after I'm all binded to it, I'll take the stock tx apart purely as experiment since it will officially be decommissioned. The antenna on the receiver looks a bit loose. Perhaps a spot of hot glue on it and poke it straight down along the skid rail?
Oct 14, 2012, 10:46 PM
Team WarpSquad
Daryoon's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by KKDDMM
I want to mod more and more,so I bought four V911 yesterday.
And I found the RX is changed.
Perhaps the newest RX is REV01(20120529).

But!the date of REV06(20120615) is newer than REV01......


see more photos in my page.
https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1751255
Thanks for the heads up and pictures KKDDMM.

Looks like they got rid of the cylindrical crystal. Harder to replace if that ever gets damage.
Oct 15, 2012, 12:43 AM
Safety : practice & promote!
RoboHeli's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mkipness
I won an auction on ebay and received a new V911 canopy, main blades, tail blade, and tail vertical stabilizer. My original V911 was blue and worn out, and my new set is red. Well first off the blades when installed are two tight, so I need to do some sanding of the pivot posts I suppose. Now that I'm looking at it, there really is no way to put the tail stabilizer on without removing the tail motor housing, or the entire tail. And since both ends seem super glued, it makes you wonder how they intend you to install this stuff. I do have to replace the tail motor as well (for the 2nd time), so I don't mind taking it off, but with the rear assembly still stuck on there, I don't know that removing the motor would even matter.

Any one ever accomplished this?

I've also got a new all white V911. The tail stabilizer of course is better designed so you can take it off from one side.

Thanks,
Max
Yeah, I converted a black V911 to a red one:



However, I had to cut the old tail fin off as shown above. A small clippers did the job to separate the top part of the fin from the bottom part. Then I was able to pry each part off of the tail boom without too much difficulty (breaking the glue bonds). Then to install the new one, I just clipped one side so I could slide it on. Then I CA glued the new tail fin back on--pretty much the way that old one was attached before.
Oct 15, 2012, 05:43 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by RicksterRC
Well, I don't recommend wiring any LED without a resistor. It will probably have a bright, but short life.
The one you have connected directly to the battery must be white or blue, or it would have burned out immediately.

In the case of your tail motor LED, the LED may limit the speed of the motor.
(When the tail voltage gets above 2.1V, the LED will get real bright, and the motor won't go any faster until the LED burns out).

If you find that the heli won't turn right, that's the cause.

For lighting ideas, see my blog.

BTW: The clearish wire in the lower left of your pic is the RX antenna. Untangle it and point it straight out for better performance.
Thanks for the pointers, will be sure to check out your blog.
I have a y911 and one blue white coming in any day now (i'm 5 weeks in waiting for the yellow one!) so I figure I'll just keep experimenting on this one.

Btw, is there LEDs with built in resistors? And flashing ones?

Thanks
Oct 15, 2012, 08:50 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeJaque
Thanks for the pointers, will be sure to check out your blog.
I have a y911 and one blue white coming in any day now (i'm 5 weeks in waiting for the yellow one!) so I figure I'll just keep experimenting on this one.

Btw, is there LEDs with built in resistors? And flashing ones?

Thanks
I haven't seen any LEDs with built in resistors, but I'm sure they exist.
Some helis come with (and you can buy replacements) that have resistors heatshrinked into a slick package wires and all.

My blog has the part number of RadioShack's cool blinking red LED. No resistors required (3-5V).
I added another one as a tailight to the black/orange member of my fleet last night.

I couldn't feed wires through the tail boom (no room).
The red wire to the tail motor is +4.2V, and I already had a splice at the tail from replacing a motor.
I wrapped a thin black wire around the tail for ground for the LED and it hardly shows at all.
Last edited by RicksterRC; Oct 15, 2012 at 10:36 AM.


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